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Discussion Starter #241 (Edited)
Cheers Jim..

Yes we are not worthy.. but thats ok.. ! lol

Will have a look next weekend at notching the vertical RHS you are referring to.. :)

John... did we miss Jim with the jacket and the oath..?? (and when I say we.. I mostly mean ''edit Hankl'.. apparently.. ! apologies)...:surprise::surprise:
 

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Jim, yes I'm trying to deflect. Hope it's working! LOL

Chris,

The straight jacket is Hankl's deal. If Jim didn't get one we have to get him involved. Can't build a Coupe without it!!

John
 

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The windows are looking good Chris. That looks like a lot of work.

-Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #244
Jim, yes I'm trying to deflect. Hope it's working! LOL

Chris,

The straight jacket is Hankl's deal. If Jim didn't get one we have to get him involved. Can't build a Coupe without it!!

John
Noted JimS had signed up.. :) thought he was going to get away there for a moment.. !!>:)>:)>:)>:)
 

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Discussion Starter #245 (Edited)
The windows are looking good Chris. That looks like a lot of work.

-Matt
Is not much work Matt particularly with Jim's template as a start... :) am sure you could knock a set out in a heartbeat if you had the inclination.. :)

Haven't thought of a way to get the angle or clearance without cutting the fiberglass return down the A pillar to move it inboard then patching.. the vertical brace at the front of the door frame is structural / compliance related.. could sway it for a piece of angle.. possibly..

Will update when I have an outcome.. :)

Cheers

Chris

Edit... A single slit down the front face of the A pillar would allow me to get a bit of extra room.. square up the window and door frame and 100% travel on the glass without having to alter the door frames structural integrity.
 

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Discussion Starter #246 (Edited)
Video uploaded at to YouTube of the window finally working after a bit of fiddling

Narration by a grumpy old guy with a sore back that's also getting over a winter flu.

https://youtu.be/S6CjNeMwN4I

:smile2::smile2:

Will most likely make a new pair now I'm done with the fiddling and reworking.. !
 

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Yeah :)

Chris your getting there. Good job. We've started Hockey again so things have slowed down here, but that's life. Glad to see your making head way.

Keep up the good work
 

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Discussion Starter #248
Yeah :)

Chris your getting there. Good job. We've started Hockey again so things have slowed down here, but that's life. Glad to see your making head way.

Keep up the good work

Thanks Jim.. :) a much easier job to follow the pioneer.. :) Have a great season.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #250 (Edited)
thanks John,

Have managed to put a decent bow in the reworked door frame after an enthusiastic welding session... need to find a press to straighten it out now.. ! grrrr..


Had a 'durability' issue with the reg I selected.. no doubt amplified by the manual handling and the rather light weight 1/8" return that holds the plastic slide to the channel (note the LH edge).

3D printer to the rescue with a part about 100 times stronger that I'll silicone and bolt through after cutting the original moulding off.
 

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Discussion Starter #251 (Edited)
Been fiddling with the doors / power windows to get them fully aligned and functional, has been nearly 2 months and I have not been idle..! Finally got there today with the passenger door (LHS)... need to fit the skin to the frame, am expecting I will glass a couple of brackets to the door skin and hang it off the frame then decide on the fit out of the handle, arm rest and speaker.

Have now fitted a some passenger car door locks from a recent model Holden / Chevy, which will support central locking via remote or the internal door handle.

Video uploaded at with a bit more detail.. https://youtu.be/EoGLHaJE7ts

Have an issue still with alignment of the frame to the body... the reveal that the window frame is sitting in will protrude past the body up to 1/2" with a proper compression lip seal (D section rubber) fitted.

If I was to cut this out of the body and re-glass it inboard of the standard position there would still be an issue where the roll cage doesnt have enough clearance at the top of the A pillar.

Thoughts, suggestions, alternate seals or options for getting a good weather proof seal on the frames would be appreciated. JimS.. did you have this issue.. did you use a rubber seal where the window frame meets the body..?

Cheers

Chris
 

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My scenario is a bit different but I've been working on the same problems.
To hang the door skin I first separated the exterior surface from the rest of the door skin. I welded four brackets to the door frame, one near each corner. Then bonded perforated base studs to the door skin that attach to the brackets. After everything is adjusted the door skin comes off with four nuts. Easy!
Like you, I want the window frame to fit flush with the A pillar and roof line. And the existing flange doesn't allow much room for weather strip. I am considering cutting off the factory flange. I'll replace it later with aluminum angle bonded to the body and place it depending on the thickness of the weather strip. It's gonna get tight at the top of the A pillar, but some pretty thin aluminum angle should fit.
Hope this helps.
Glenn
 

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Chris,

sorry I didn't read your whole post, I was just looking at the pictures. I will have to put the door back on and check for what your talking about. I planned for the bubble seal, but I didn't check it again once I was almost done. If this is a problem on mine a couple things that I had thought about are moving the mounting lip for the seal in like you have said and Gbeck said, and I thought about flaring the body out with 3M High strength repair filler and final finish with RAGE Gold. the max I would do is 1/8" or 3mm.

Guess I need to check this again :)

BTW I didn't realize anyone else had started down the window path except for myself and you :) I haven't been reading the posts much due to being busy with kids and sports.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #255 (Edited)
Thanks gents.. seems a bit of both would be the probable outcome.. build up the exterior surface and cut / refit the fibreglass lip in order to get the seal sorted.

Another option would be to cut the horizontal chassis tube at the top of the A pillar (upper windscreen rail), clamp it to compress the frame slightly and re-weld..??? !!

Hope the kids sports (hockey) is going well Jim.. :) (PS.... posted a video too.. ! lol)

Cheers

Chris
 

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Chris,

things are good. I'm hoping to get some time around Xmas to work on it again :)

I haven't checked out your video yet, but I will.

If I don't talk to you before then, Have a Great Christmas and Happy New Year.
 

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Discussion Starter #257
Cheers Jim... hopefully I will have some solutions to assist by then.. !!

Refined the fit of doors over the weekend, literally a few mm here and there to get it just right. Ended up cutting the return on the body 1/2 way down the A pillar and tacking it with hot melt glue to improve the alignment. The drivers side (right) will need around 1/8" to be built up around the window frame from the top of the A pillar to get a flush finish.

The passenger side however runs from 1/8" to about 1/4" proud with the seal in place... thinking I may build that up with glass initially then finish as required with body filler.

Tack welded the new retaining brackets for the door lock catch, which I'll finish when the body is off.. no point in burning it to the ground in the garage..! Door skins next.. will see how that goes.. then marrying the parts together. Lucky its coming up to Christmas, so divine intervention would no doubt assist.. :).

Cheers

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #258 (Edited)
Progress, if you can call it that with the doors, frames and alignment as well as fitting the skins to the frames.

Ended up remaking the drivers (RH) side frame completely, far easier the third time around, but it actually fits nicely now. Probably spent around 4 months elapsed on the doors, which isnt great, but its also a big one to overcome. The USA version, without the side impact protection (refer JimS) is far easier to get it all packaged in the limited space available.

Have glassed a couple of brackets with a curved base onto the door skin. The flat surfaces mate with a matching L bracket welded to the door frame. These allow some movement in and out... and with the help of the small hammer a little forward to rear also.. :). Will add a third bracket on the lower half of the door to complete the mounting points and allow the skin to be tilted independent of the frame.

Best to all.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #259 (Edited)
More progress on the drivers door.. :)

Had added the bracket for the inner door handle since taking the video. The speaker will fit to the rear of the bracket for the window reg motor. Will mount that to the inner door panel. Just need to do the final template for the glass and its done for the moment. Will make up some perforated base studs in M8 to hang the passenger side door rather than the angle brackets that have been used thus far. Thank goodness there are only TWO doors.. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

External alignment of the frame to the body is great.. no building up of the edge required.

Video available at https://youtu.be/wobS6g-B57g
Cheers

Chris
 

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Wow Chris, very impressive. It's really coming together nicely.
The door latches look like they belong. Thanks for posting.

-Matt
 
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