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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,

I have a question on the hood/front clip. I installed the hinges on the fog light buckets, I measure and double measured and went over it several times to find the center. Went ahead and installed the hinges and put the hood on the car. Of course it is too long and needs to be sanded back, BUT I have a problem, the hood doesn't set far enough forward, so it doesn't line up with the sponses. The hood is back about 3/8", and that's with the hood pulled forward as far as it can go in the slots of the hinge.

So my question is do I need to build a round shim that looks like the back of the fog light buckets and that is approximately 3/8" thick??
Or a little thicker so the hinge bolt is in the center of it's slot?
Or should it be at the end of the slot when it is setting perfect??


Thanks for the help.

Jim
 

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Jim, I did not need to run spacers on mine, they lined up pretty well. Are your fenders along the sponses parallel? Or is the gap angular? My thought is the mount for the hinges may be either too low or too high which could cause issues with alignment. Maybe adjusting them one way or the other will make it better or worse, either way showing if you are on the right track. John
 

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jim : I ran into the same problem as you did with my black body . I clamped the hood and the pontoons together as you did and had a gap of about a 7/16" . I made some spacers from the discarded cutout on the hood , with an adjustable hole saw the same diameter as the fog light bucket . With everything bolted and clamped together , it came out perfect and centered side to side with a little tweaking on the front hood frame supports . Good luck Ron
 

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Looks like there has been a variety of situations and solutions. I did not need a spacer but the hinge slot moves the hood as far forward as possible. Do make sure your hood is level front front to back and side to side. I found it easiest to fine tune hood alignment after the rad aluminum was on since I made sure that was nice and square to the frame.

As an aside...when I was doing this on my car there was a car show in Toronto and it featured the original #13 coupe. As I walked around it, I noticed that the hood to pontoon "joint" was off by 1.5 inches!! AND, both sides were different!

Here I was working with tolerances in the 1/16 (or better) range and the 10,000,000 dollar car is all over the place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Guys, thanks for the advice. I will make sure everything is where it needs to be as far as level and aligned, but I'm probably going to still need some type of spacer.

In the manual it refers to the use of the 10-32 fastners for mounting the hinges. Did all of you use these or step up to bigger fastners for the 2 bolts that mount thru the light buckets.

Right now I have them all as the 10-32s, but was thinking of stepping up for the 2 that go thru the buckets.

Any advice?

Jim
 

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I did spacers, then ground out the slot a bit. The big bolt on the fog light itself is the main fastener, I also used a 3/8" bolt below it.
 

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Since we're on the subject of the nose and I'm at the point of radiator sheet metal, should I wait to start putting the radiator sheet metal together until I have the nose in place? I need to wait until the nose is on to trim the turkey pan to fit up against the nose, should I do the same with the radiator metal?

Thanks guys!
 

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The hood should go on first and probably set on as close to perfect as possible before you do anything else. First make sure the body is where it should be and bolted down.

I started with the hood and got a "rough" fit to start. Make sure you look at the wheel well to pontoon area, the hood side to pontoon gap sould be straight. Using the various hinge adjustments, adjust the side to side tilt, side to side shift, the front to back tilt and front to back slide. My frame at the very front (the two "arms" that the hinges bolt to) was not square on my car and so the nose of the hood was off to one side more than the other and so the back of the hood didn't sit square on the pontoons (it almost seemed on an angle). I used a large crowbar to bend them back and center them. Now I have the same size spacers on each side of the hinge bolt and the hood sits square. Install the steel pontoon to frame supports and maybe even the lower wheel well aluminum clamped on also. I suggest using lots of clamps to mock everything up before you start committing yourself anywhere by drilling holes. A tweek here or there changes alot of things.

then you add the rad aluminum using clamps and duct tape...test fit with closed hood....then fine tune the aluminum as needed.

Marc
 

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Jim, make sure that you have the lower splashguards fitted before adding the spacers. When the pontoons roll out at the top with the splashguards, they also move back a little. Probably not 3/8", but it will make some difference.

Dan
 

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My experience was that everything changes and everything has to be redone a bit. I did the rad aluminum, fitted the hood, then redid the aluminum. My aluminum pieces did not fit well at all, the side flanges completely wrong on both sides and I refabbed one side as well. I found the best fit for the FFR side piece was as a body filler mud board.

I mounted my upper splash guards using webs to the hood and it really stiffened things up a lot.
 

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You have to remember things that can't move (where the nose and the side pontoons line up, wheel house arc, etc) and put those where they have to be first. Most everything else can be adjusted a little to actually mount the nose to the car. Patience, good luck
 

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1)fit the nose length first according to the pontoons, the wheel wells must line up forward to back. ( note make sure there is a steady block under the nose to simulate height according to how the nose fits the pontoons) If you raise and lower the nose it will greatly vary the gap at the cowl. once that is ruffed in ( leave it as tight as possible.
2)Now using vise grips clamp the nose to the pontoons, making sure the wheel well is lined up.
3)screw in the 2 hiem joints
set the nose hinge brkts in place and adjust the height of the hiem so the bolt slides through with no adjusting. also making sure you can use aprox the same amount of washers left and right.
4)set the brkt so the hinge bolt is in the middle of the slot front to back now vise grip in place.
5) measure the thickness of the spacers needed for each side.
6) install the spacers. I use all 1/4 20 hardware 2 bolts in the bottom of the bucket, and 3 through the bottom of the brkt. Now you can remove the vise grips.
7) the nose should open and close now on the pivots. The nose should be able to open far enough past the neutral balance point to stay open on its own. This normally requires trimming the nose and a little of the back of the brkts.
8) finalize the gap at the cowl.
9) do whatever it takes to make the nose latches work. plenty of ideas on here.
10) now install the rad alum to the finished alighned nose.
11) then the splash panels

I hope this helps
If you have any questions give me a ring or p/m.
Later
Mark D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you

Mark,

Thanks so much for the step by step. This all makes good sense.

Thanks everyone for your input.

Have a Happy New Year :001_smile:


Jim
 

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Mark,

Thanks so much for the step by step. This all makes good sense.

Thanks everyone for your input.

Have a Happy New Year :001_smile:


Jim
Ditto! Thanks Mark, I am about ready to start fitting the body and that step by step is super helpful. Have you every thought about writing and selling a build guide since the FFR one is mostly useless?

JC
 

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Howdy,



I'm going to bookmark this thread so I can reference it when I install the nose on my Spyder.

Paul
 

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I had the same problem. The stock hood hinges wouldn't allow me to get the back of the wheel arches lined up. The bolts on my fog light brackets weren't long enough to go through a lot of spacers, and I wanted to keep a lot of surface area in contact with the back of the fog light pots anyway, so I decided to modify the hood hinge brackets instead. I welded a backbone down each one, which allowed me to extend the bolt slot, thereby allowing more hood movement. If you look carefully at the attached images, you can see where the seam is.
 

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