[tbarcelo]

Does anyone have a cost sheet / budget for a 351W powered FFR built without a donor? I'm trying to get an idea of what it would cost to build one with a 351W and upgraded tranny. Because of the new drivetrain, I'm not sure the donor makes much sense ... any thoughts?

Thanks,
Trevor

 

[2FAST4U]

I don't have a cost sheet to build a 351W non-donor, but you can expect to shell out $30-35K for a very nice one with IRS, large disc brakes, 5-lug rotors, Autometer gauges. etc.

My monster big block with exotic parts will cost about $48K.

Keith

 

[Rigler]

Sounds like John Hudson's car. MY427sc.com

 

[Ozona]

Trevor:

It depends a lot on how you do or can get things.

You spend more than you think on nuts/bolts/adapters/junk if you go no donor.

It's also easier to get sucked into the "sparkly" this, special sale on that stuff if you go no donor. Not that I would know or anything.

Ozona

 

[ghalleck]

There are a lot of options that can effect the final cost. I went the non donor route for the same reason you are considering. I also added IRS with all new parts, tubular lower front control arms, Roush 347 stroker, Tremec trans, Lakewood bell housing, Centerforce dual friction clutch, leather (questionable choice), heater, wipers, fresh air vents and many small additional add-on's and I will finish in the $30-35K range. If you look at the survey results of survey #6, you will get a better idea of the true build costs. Also some of the build pages include some detail cost lists. Hope that helps.

 

[rlogan]

I expect to have 23-25 depending primarily on paint. If I manage to get the paint done it will be on the lower end of that. You can check out my build site below which has a part list. I am one hell of a bargain shopper, but a short list is below.

'69 351W(mildly modified)
IRS
powdercoat frame
flaming river rack
4 into 4
T-5(I rebuilt)
17x9 Polished Bullits
Kumho Ecsta 512s
5 lugs standard brakes
McLeod scatter shield
King Cobra clutch
Billet Steel Flywheel
Autometer Ultralites(7 gauge set)
Holley fuelpump
Polyurethane bushings
and on and on...
I did get my front suspension and drive shaft for free (spindles, brakes, lower arms )

[ August 23, 2002, 11:04 AM: Message edited by: rlogan ]

 

[John / My427SC]

Trevor

I have a rough break down of my parts, with prices and part numbers on my web site - its under the PARTS menu on the left hand side. I am probably right around 37K, not counting tax & shipping

 

[tbarcelo]

Thanks for the input, guys. I am a little concerned about not having all the nuts and bolts, but it seems like donors are getting harder and harder to find in the Northeast. I am also thinking about keeping my eye out for a partially complete kit. I would really like to keep the price under $30k, and although I like the idea of the IRS, it might be the first thing to go.

 

[SteveSS]

FFR is supposed to have a '94+ donor setup ready by the end of the year. I may be going that way...

 

[tbarcelo]

Hmmm ... I've got a 1998 GT that I'd be replacing ... very tempting, although my GT is in near-flawless condition!

 

[SteveSS]

The cost-effectiveness isn't very good if you tear up a car you could sell for five figures. Then again, you exactly know the history of the parts you're using. I've got a '95 convertible, and I'd be interested to know what I can expect to get for the body after it's stripped. If you can find a '87 to '93 for a good price that's not beat all to hell, it's still the most economic choice.

 

[wnstwolf]

I made the mistake of keeping track of $$ on my 351 non donor build. I can e-mail if you like. I am at $32,500 without paint which I am going to do (try to do) myself....

Enging Factory small block 427 was the bulk of cost at $8,000 but for the 525 hp drop in with two wires to connect I could not find a better deal with the quality and back up of the company. Great folks.

Let me know if you want total costs breakdown and an e-mail

 

[travissmithoh]

If you're going with a different engine & tranny, this might be worth the $1000 to get the rest of the parts.

88 GT no engine or trans

You might be able to get most of that back if you completely part it out.

Just a thought...

Trav

[ August 23, 2002, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: Trav ]

 

[grumpy]

tbarcelo,
Our mildly cammed, basic 351W, with a 650 Holley, duraspark distributor (wired for MSD), Crane Cam, Canton Road Race oil pan, Cobra Valve Covers, Hellings Breather assy., McLeod Bellhousing, FMS clutch/plate pak, toploader 4 speed ran about $4000 and is rated at 340HP, with that as your baseline, you can be under $22,000 with good shopping and mostly new/remfg parts. The good donors are getting hard to find in most areas, and when you step above the $3000 level then is tough to justify a donor anyway.
good luck,
grumpy
PS; when you search for a 351W you will find them in the following forms:
69-74 "L" Port Heads
74-77 5/16" Stud Heads
77-83 Bolt Rocker Heads
84-87 base 351(plentiful)
86-93 dipstick in block
93-97 "roller"
and the core value will run from $50 to $800 so you see, what you find to build varies by $750. Most will not search out the 351 they need, so the Performance Shops get paid to do it, and then the build em like they're going to Sebring and kick Ferrari's a$$.

[ August 23, 2002, 01:34 PM: Message edited by: grumpy ]

 

[tbarcelo]

Wow, Grumpy, that's pretty inexpensive ... how are you managing that? I guess I shouldn't rule out the donor for nuts/bolts and miscellany, huh? I guess I'll have to make some parts lists and see where I can save. At this point I still have a few spousal hurdles to overcome ... actually, just one ... I have to pay off her law school debt, then I have permission!! The research continues ...

 

[tbarcelo]

Okay, grumpy, I have now read your post a little more carefully. Why would you choose one of the 351s over the others?

While we're on the topic of 351s ... how do you get around the smog issue of a carb'd 351 ... I'm in MA.

Thanks,
Trevor

 

[grumpy]

tbarcelo,
Primarily, it's a head design issue as afr as selection. A lot avoid ths a go with ally heads, expensive, but will flow like a big block with the right gear for it.
Over the past years I've collected a SeaLand container full of 351w's that I've slowly been going thru vating, align boring, boring, TRW's pistons, polishing the cranks, basic balancing, and just good assembly to arrive at a basic 351W for under $1500.00 each. Just takes a little patience and time. Above all don't rush you're COBRA, treat it like an investment. For a daily driver, go the donor route, it's just a matter choice. I tend to lean the way of the originals of the 60's, be it a Grandsport, Lister, Cobra, or any of the cars of that era. State of the art electronics, EFI, 6 speed trannies, and so on I'll leave to the younger set.
grumpy
PS;offline eMail on smog issue!

[ August 23, 2002, 02:18 PM: Message edited by: grumpy ]