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Discussion Starter #1
dang...loooong time since I've posted

so my mkIII challenge car is getting new spindles (to sn95) and big front brakes...and will run the 275 wide tires on our beloved MB 17 inch wheels (no front sway bar for now )

I do not race anymore...she be street legal (lights/blinkers/windshield...SB100 sign-offs = CA plate)

I do track days (where I drive it on the highway to and fro)

At times I make lots of noise back in the Santa Cruz mountains chasing down all sorts of semi to full super cars driven by silicon valley posers in driving shoes :surprise:0:)

anyway...I'm looking for suggestions on reasonable camber/toe and corner weight settings for less twitchy highway runs while maintaining some of the right foot initiated cornering that we've all come to love from these cars

thanks in advance, and GO JOHN GEORGE GO!!!...:grin2:
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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TIM!!!!!!!!

Tow makes the car twitchy, if you want to not be twitchy, set tow to 0. I'd also recommend a lot of positive caster, as much as you can get, like 8-10deg, this will make car want to go straight. Camber for street -1.5 is probably good.
 

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Corner weights are the same for any situation. You want them as even as you can get. 50/50 is perfect, of course. but get as close as you can.

For front alignment, nothing radical needed for the street. 0.25-0.50* of camber, and 5-8* of caster.

A little bit of toe in will make the car more stable. A little bit of toe out will help with corner turn in. I'm talking about 1/32 - 1/16"
 

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Not a waxer
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What they said; you didn't mention whether you're running PS or manual but go for as much positive caster as possible (watch the adjuster sleeve thread engagement and replace them different lengths if it becomes too little). I run 1 1/2 negative camber with no ill effects on tire wear or braking. You may well have to go with that much to keep the 275s from getting into the body. More toe in helps stabilize the car and reduce twitchiness although as Bob said zero or a little toe out will give more initial bite at turn in...you'll need to decide where to comprimise (I run 1/16" toe in).

Jeff
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Although I am an autocrosser I do drive to the events on my hoosier A7s. I agree on the zero to slight toe IN. I tried a 1/16 toe out a year or so ago and gave up after two events. Driving on the highway was just too unstable. The 295 fronts tramline anyway and toe out made the car actually scary a couple of times.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks all...next set of questions (go carb or stay EFI)

so...my passenger side cylinder bank is all over the compression map...driver side is better...but what the heck...I yanked it out!!!!!

in general terms, does the group here side on going carburetor or staying EFI?

here are the attributes: ( I have no smog requirements )

long block remanufactured, port match, forged pistons, rollers and better springs in the heads (still stock heads), new clutch kit, replace radiator, better power steering pump, new water pump

(everything is 25 yrs old...stock '91...it's all worn out)

carb option (basically):

holley intake and 4150 double pumper 650 cfm, alter the fuel pump, msd distributor on 6al box, and the FF long headers for 302 (99% of time I'm at sea level, once or twice a year I'm at 8800 ft)

EFI option (basically):

trick flow intake, 70mm throttle body, go to 24lb injectors, new fuel rails, ford shorty headers, use my MSD ignition system

my friends and I are not sure on the cam...e303? something else?

rest of drive train remains "old" challenge car...I did put a 3.27 rear gear in it

and remember...I updated to sn95 spindles and 13 in front brakes w 2 piston calipers

the goal is to keep relatively simple and end up with a fresh and updated motor (car) with noticeable increase in acceleration and stopping power...figure nearing 300 hp at the wheels

also...as John George can attest, I'm not a total gearhead, I drive it hard and put it away wet...i do the simple stuff...my point is the carb worries me a little, but, I'm open to it as the car would lose another 100lbs of wire and "stuff" in the process

let me know how you feel...and GO JOHN GEORGE GO!!!
 

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Unconventional Builder
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5,498 Posts
I switched from '90 EFI to a Quick fuel 2 years ago and love it. Wife complains about gas smell in garage, very minimal. Lost big mpg; EFI almost 20 mpg carb low teens. I like the simplicity good fuel pump and spark is all that is needed.
 

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Senior Member
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I would go with the trick flo package
I love carbs
but
you will have to have a road race version with the cut floats
and if you really like the kiss theory then the efi wont need tuning
when you change altitude
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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I say get Mark Dougherty to put in a Coyote from a wrecked 2011-2014 F150! Its perfect for the street!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Next...

suggestions on clutch kits?

going to replace all of it

recall, not much over 300hp, plenty of time on the street

thanks for all the input
 

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Premium Member
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For a street car that you don't want to mess with, I think EFI is the way to go. I like EFI so much, that I don't think I'll ever go back to a carb. Heck, even Harley has had EFI for a decade!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks for input

picking up engine tomorrow, got a couple parts on backorder so a few more weeks (killin' me)

also...was watching videos on youtube and came across a certain Garage Wars episode...the leader of the East Coast team...Mark Dougherty!!

I thought to myself, I'll watch this...the other team has NO chance, NO chance at all.

Then...the cars they will build are FFR Hot Rods...pssshtttt...no a chance, these guys have absolutely no chance.

Great job on winning Mark. Nice GodFather action on not giving them your extra windshield.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
engine break in and final set ups taking place

I like this part...the pics will make sense (before and after).

Yes the new brakes include new spindles from FF. The FI Tech EFI system is very cool.

Will go with -1.5 camber on both sides, and 0 toe as this is mainly a street car now.

It's now a 306, FF headers, ports are matched, machined valves and new internals.

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks,

While it lasted, it was awesome...engine is out and back at the engine builder.

Break in procedure followed to the letter, a gearhead friend helped put in oil (racing break in oil), pressurize it, start it, run it, blah blah blah...i don't know why or what...

:frown2:
 

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