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I went with Mike Forte’s kit which used the Spectre Performance MAF sensor pipe, silicone couplers, and K&N filter. I’m also planning on fabricating a cold air box that isolates the intake filter from the hot air under the hood and pulls in cold air from the brake duct. Here is a pic of the parts in Mike’s kit:

 

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Discussion Starter #6
yes it is, thx.
so it takes one spectre reducer from 4", and one 4" coupler.
Did you make any changes to your coyote throttle intake
 

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The Factory Five Coyote installation instructions show two CAI options. The Spectre one pictured, plus a second option from Treadstone Performance. I used the Spectre on my Gen 2 Coyote Roadster. The Treadstone one on my Gen 3 Coyote Coupe. Either are good options. Either will work on either version. https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Coyote-Fitment-roadster-rev-2B.pdf. For a Roadster or Coupe (only ones I personally have experience with) it's not necessary to relocate the oil filter. In fact I would encourage not too. Use a smaller filter like the one shipped with the crate engine. Mobil 1 M1-113 (the one I prefer), Fram PH10060, Wix/Napa 57060, or Napa 7060. The oil filter is in the same location for any of the Coyote versions. For the Gen 2 and Gen 3, it's necessary to remove the oil cooler. But that's covered in the instructions too. Not necessary to change anything with the throttle body.
 

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The Factory Five Coyote installation instructions show two CAI options. The Spectre one pictured, plus a second option from Treadstone Performance. I used the Spectre on my Gen 2 Coyote Roadster. The Treadstone one on my Gen 3 Coyote Coupe. Either are good options. Either will work on either version. https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Coyote-Fitment-roadster-rev-2B.pdf. For a Roadster or Coupe (only ones I personally have experience with) it's not necessary to relocate the oil filter. In fact I would encourage not too. Use a smaller filter like the one shipped with the crate engine. Mobil 1 M1-113 (the one I prefer), Fram PH10060, Wix/Napa 57060, or Napa 7060. The oil filter is in the same location for any of the Coyote versions. For the Gen 2 and Gen 3, it's necessary to remove the oil cooler. But that's covered in the instructions too. Not necessary to change anything with the throttle body.
Awesome, thx.
I have a Gen 3 engine that goes into a Backdraft. I've heard they don't need a oil cooler, so that's good.
By any chance... do you know if i need more than the OEM engine harness to connect the control pack (on the pdf it mentions a connect to the chassis harness)?
 

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Awesome, thx.
I have a Gen 3 engine that goes into a Backdraft. I've heard they don't need a oil cooler, so that's good.
By any chance... do you know if i need more than the OEM engine harness to connect the control pack (on the pdf it mentions a connect to the chassis harness)?
Well, it would have been useful to know you're asking about a Backdraft. This is a Factory Five forum. I've seen and looked at Backdrafts (couple in our club) enough to know the engine location and frame are different. So can't say whether the answers provided before apply. The instructions provided are of course only for Factory Five. So how much they apply will vary as well. The Coyote is a cool running engine, so for street driving an oil cooler is typically not necessary or even desirable. If you're asking about a crate motor and the Ford Performance controls pack (harness, PCM, etc.) the engine harness that's on the engine when it comes out of the box remains. The control pack harness attaches to it. You can get a copy of the controls pack instructions off the Ford Performance website if you don't have them already. May answer most of your questions. Obviously I have no way to describe details for connecting to the Backdraft chassis harness.
 

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I honestly didn’t even know customers put Backdrafts together ever. I’m in Florida and everyone down here gets their Backdraft at the Naples Dealer all ready to rock. They’re at every major auto show in the area too.

 

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Backdrafts also have more room in front of the motor where the intake is straight and turns over the top of the radiator. I honestly wish the factory fives could accommodate the coyote with this much room for the intake, but it is a compromise because you have to deal with how far back the radiator is.

 

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I also used the Mike Forte setup on my Gen2 worked well & no issues.
 

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I use the Spectre parts. Have ducted from the oil cooler to the filter. Located a GT500 air box to enclose the air cleaner but have not yet trimmed it to fit. The end of the duct is currently against the filter. At some point will do the fitting have too much other stuff to do first.

357209
 

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Those ducts were part of the Cobra Earls Vent Kit. I don't believe he is making the kit any longer, but he might be able to give you a source of the vents.
 

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Thanks. I remembered that as well a few days ago. Earl had worked with Raceral (another Forum member) to make the brake duct boot molds custom so I’m guessing it is the same story for the oil cooler duct. After Earl’s health had declined he eventually gave the molds to another member to continue offering the kit but Earl couldn’t remember who had them, and the guy has been sitting on them for years with no forward momentum. There are generic duct boots out there so I’ll likely try to fab something up at some point. Thanks again.
 

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I seem to recall that without supplemental vents - which you've obviously got - the hood scoop acts as a vent, rather than an intake. An easy test would be to tape some string to the underside of the lip of the vent and/or the leading edge of the hole in the hood. Then go for a drive to see if the string gets sucked under the hood or blows out. But since I haven't done the test, I can't say for sure.


John
 

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I seem to recall that without supplemental vents - which you've obviously got - the hood scoop acts as a vent, rather than an intake. An easy test would be to tape some string to the underside of the lip of the vent and/or the leading edge of the hole in the hood. Then go for a drive to see if the string gets sucked under the hood or blows out. But since I haven't done the test, I can't say for sure.


John
Ill have to see if i have the logs saved but I drove around with my HPTuners recording and saw a pretty big difference between sitting at a stop light and cruising. Not necessarily definitive but was good enough for me.
 
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