Very impressive! Congrats on your accomplishment! Really gave me some ideas.
Cobrathegreat (FFR5922) GRADUATES!!!- 2010 FFCars.com Graduate # 3
4
TIME FOR FUN!!!
A short introduction:
I fell in love with these cars when I was about 14-15 years old. ('87-88).
Up to that time I was living overseas (Greece) and had no idea specs on the originals and no idea of the kit industry.
When I moved to the U.S., I started researching and found kit manufacturers (can't remember which ones). I loved the idea, but lacked any skills.
At the age of 16 I bought a '78 Fiat 124 Spider which I restored.
Then did a bit of work on my own cars and finally got partial skills and money to do this.
I loved the originals and the original look, but I wanted and envisioned something different, a bit more of a modern flare.
This might not be to everybody's taste, but I am sure some parts of it can be appreciated by everybody.
I loved building it and I love driving it. As of 1/10/2010 I have about 800 miles on her.
I got the kit about 3 years ago. I took my time, family, vacation, work and I am at this point today!!!
Yeah baby!!!!
I am proud of this accomplishment, my wife loves it, my kids think their dad is super man.
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FFR5922
Specs:
302 EFI (Rebuilt)
BBS SSI Upper and Lower intakes
BBS Fuel Rails
190 LPH Fuel Pump
Stock MAF calibrated for 24# injectors
24# injectors
70 mm throttle body
Ceramic Coated FMS shortie headers
Catalytic Converters (Ceramic Coated)
Edelbrock Performer Cam
Edelbrock Performer Heads
93 Cobra ECU
T5 (SN95 ’94) with Midshift/Frontshift and Working Electric Speedo by ModernDriveline.com (Rebuilt)
Pro 5.0 Shifter
SN95 (’94) Rear End with 3.55 gears (Rebuilt)
SN95 (’94) Spindles
Stock ’94 Mustang GT brakes all around (New or Rebuilt)
ABS (’94)
18” Rims
Front: 265/35/18 on 18”X9” rims 5.95" backspacing
Rear: 295/30/18 on 18”x10” rims 7.1" backspacing
Paint and Body by Jeff Miller
Orange: Mitsubishi Orange
Black: Black
Rounded Edges: Cockpit (Front/Back), fenders
Hidden body mounts. Side, Front, Rear
Delete: Bumpers, Standard Hood Latches, Wipers.
A short introduction:
I fell in love with these cars when I was about 14-15 years old. ('87-88).
Up to that time I was living overseas (Greece) and had no idea specs on the originals and no idea of the kit industry.
When I moved to the U.S., I started researching and found kit manufacturers (can't remember which ones). I loved the idea, but lacked any skills.
At the age of 16 I bought a '78 Fiat 124 Spider which I restored.
Then did a bit of work on my own cars and finally got partial skills and money to do this.
I loved the originals and the original look, but I wanted and envisioned something different, a bit more of a modern flare.
This might not be to everybody's taste, but I am sure some parts of it can be appreciated by everybody.
I loved building it and I love driving it. As of 1/10/2010 I have about 800 miles on her.
I got the kit about 3 years ago. I took my time, family, vacation, work and I am at this point today!!!
Yeah baby!!!!
I am proud of this accomplishment, my wife loves it, my kids think their dad is super man.
FFR5922
Specs:
302 EFI (Rebuilt)
BBS SSI Upper and Lower intakes
BBS Fuel Rails
190 LPH Fuel Pump
Stock MAF calibrated for 24# injectors
24# injectors
70 mm throttle body
Ceramic Coated FMS shortie headers
Catalytic Converters (Ceramic Coated)
Edelbrock Performer Cam
Edelbrock Performer Heads
93 Cobra ECU
T5 (SN95 ’94) with Midshift/Frontshift and Working Electric Speedo by ModernDriveline.com (Rebuilt)
Pro 5.0 Shifter
SN95 (’94) Rear End with 3.55 gears (Rebuilt)
SN95 (’94) Spindles
Stock ’94 Mustang GT brakes all around (New or Rebuilt)
ABS (’94)
18” Rims
Front: 265/35/18 on 18”X9” rims 5.95" backspacing
Rear: 295/30/18 on 18”x10” rims 7.1" backspacing
Paint and Body by Jeff Miller
Orange: Mitsubishi Orange
Black: Black
Rounded Edges: Cockpit (Front/Back), fenders
Hidden body mounts. Side, Front, Rear
Delete: Bumpers, Standard Hood Latches, Wipers.
61 - 80 of 94 Posts
4
Center console, how I did it. Part 1.
Sure guys,
like I mentioned on the Grad posts, I do not have any woodworking experience, but I have a hammer and a screw driver and some knowledge on how stuff works and is supposed to look....sooo...here are 2 (I know, I know....I took only 2 pictures of the console but I think you will be able to understand the basics of it.
(For my inspiration and for you to see a pro and his console, do a search on forum member "epicenter"....mine is an inexperienced kid's rendering of his work).
On the following pictures you can see how I put it together. To connect the pieces of wood together, I used screws, glue and bondo. (If you are wondering why bondo, bondo is tough, it is used by the pros on wood all the time and easy to work with. It will not come lose and it actually holds the pieces together very well.)
For the curves I used bondo. In order for me to get the curves I used a PVC pipe (sprinkler). The size of the pipe is up to you, depending on the size of the curves you want. I do not remember what I used, but it was a good sized one.
Then I sanded, added some more bondo and sanded, until I was satisfied with the finish. I was not really concerned with a perfect finish, since I applied 1/8" closed cell foam padding and vinyl on top. Covered all imperfections perfectly.
The wood that I used was just some stuff HD had. Easy to cut, but not very strong.
I would recommend using a harder wood for this.
The curve under the dash is to fit the radio. The radio (all radios) have about 7" depth. Plus I like the different look.
The console can not be removed as whole. So the 2 sides are held on with screws ONLY and have caps to cover the heads.
The glove box lid is made of a thiner wood.
I do not have exact measurements, not because I do not want to have my console duplicated (I do not mind this at all, in fact it would be flattering) but because so much trial and error went into this, that I do not even know how I got this to work!!!
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I used vinyl in all of my interior because I like the look of Joan's fabrics non shiny stuff, I like the price and I like that it is easy to work with and stretch.
Stretching the vinyl to fit the curves on the 2 side pieces was a pain. I stretched and stapled (not glued) as I went. In this process, I discovered the wrinkled look on the curves. I liked it and maintained that look on all curves.
If you will doing something like this, remember; the length of the console is affected by the pad and vinyl on the console, on the dash and the insulation and carpet on the transmission top aluminum and rear cockpit.
Sure guys,
like I mentioned on the Grad posts, I do not have any woodworking experience, but I have a hammer and a screw driver and some knowledge on how stuff works and is supposed to look....sooo...here are 2 (I know, I know....I took only 2 pictures of the console but I think you will be able to understand the basics of it.
(For my inspiration and for you to see a pro and his console, do a search on forum member "epicenter"....mine is an inexperienced kid's rendering of his work).
On the following pictures you can see how I put it together. To connect the pieces of wood together, I used screws, glue and bondo. (If you are wondering why bondo, bondo is tough, it is used by the pros on wood all the time and easy to work with. It will not come lose and it actually holds the pieces together very well.)
For the curves I used bondo. In order for me to get the curves I used a PVC pipe (sprinkler). The size of the pipe is up to you, depending on the size of the curves you want. I do not remember what I used, but it was a good sized one.
Then I sanded, added some more bondo and sanded, until I was satisfied with the finish. I was not really concerned with a perfect finish, since I applied 1/8" closed cell foam padding and vinyl on top. Covered all imperfections perfectly.
The wood that I used was just some stuff HD had. Easy to cut, but not very strong.
I would recommend using a harder wood for this.
The curve under the dash is to fit the radio. The radio (all radios) have about 7" depth. Plus I like the different look.
The console can not be removed as whole. So the 2 sides are held on with screws ONLY and have caps to cover the heads.
The glove box lid is made of a thiner wood.
I do not have exact measurements, not because I do not want to have my console duplicated (I do not mind this at all, in fact it would be flattering) but because so much trial and error went into this, that I do not even know how I got this to work!!!
I used vinyl in all of my interior because I like the look of Joan's fabrics non shiny stuff, I like the price and I like that it is easy to work with and stretch.
Stretching the vinyl to fit the curves on the 2 side pieces was a pain. I stretched and stapled (not glued) as I went. In this process, I discovered the wrinkled look on the curves. I liked it and maintained that look on all curves.
If you will doing something like this, remember; the length of the console is affected by the pad and vinyl on the console, on the dash and the insulation and carpet on the transmission top aluminum and rear cockpit.
Center console, how I did it. Part 2.
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The transmission top aluminum piece is removable. It is screwed in from the sides (per FFR instructions).
I used 6 self taping screws per side. I put some oil on the 3/4" tube where it attaches so when I applied silicone for insulation, it would not stick. I applied the silicone and screwed in all self tapping screws, let the silicone dry. It did not stick and now the top can be removed. Silicone is to reduce rattles. The top has sound and heat insulation. The carpet was set per FFR instructions and then cut from the rear to the front.
It is not glued to the top part and where the screws are, but just after (lower) than the screws.
The 2 pieces of wood were attached to the top of the aluminum and the carpet was sliced at those points.
Now how it all goes together:
I place the center piece of the console on the top of the carpet. Then I maneuver one of the sides, screw it to the 2 pieces mentioned above, then screw the sides to the center piece.
Repeat on other side.
Now it is real solid.
To remove the transmission aluminum cover:
Unscrew the sides. Remove sides. The center piece is now free. Remove it.
Peal the carpet like a banana, the side screws are exposed, unscrew and remove aluminum.
I think I gave you a headache with all this mumbling, if you have any further or specific questions please PM. I will do my best to answer them.
The transmission top aluminum piece is removable. It is screwed in from the sides (per FFR instructions).
I used 6 self taping screws per side. I put some oil on the 3/4" tube where it attaches so when I applied silicone for insulation, it would not stick. I applied the silicone and screwed in all self tapping screws, let the silicone dry. It did not stick and now the top can be removed. Silicone is to reduce rattles. The top has sound and heat insulation. The carpet was set per FFR instructions and then cut from the rear to the front.
It is not glued to the top part and where the screws are, but just after (lower) than the screws.
The 2 pieces of wood were attached to the top of the aluminum and the carpet was sliced at those points.
Now how it all goes together:
I place the center piece of the console on the top of the carpet. Then I maneuver one of the sides, screw it to the 2 pieces mentioned above, then screw the sides to the center piece.
Repeat on other side.
Now it is real solid.
To remove the transmission aluminum cover:
Unscrew the sides. Remove sides. The center piece is now free. Remove it.
Peal the carpet like a banana, the side screws are exposed, unscrew and remove aluminum.
I think I gave you a headache with all this mumbling, if you have any further or specific questions please PM. I will do my best to answer them.
4
Ok gents,
as I had some inquiries about how I did my hidden hood latches, here is a raw tutorial.
First of, I used these from McMaster-Car. The part # is 3985A41
I used the double point. They have in varying lenghths, but I ended cutting the ends toward the handle. So use your judgment. I did not use the handle's L bracket. See pictures why.
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as I had some inquiries about how I did my hidden hood latches, here is a raw tutorial.
First of, I used these from McMaster-Car. The part # is 3985A41
I used the double point. They have in varying lenghths, but I ended cutting the ends toward the handle. So use your judgment. I did not use the handle's L bracket. See pictures why.
4
4
There is no metal in the areas where the latches and the latch's catch are held, but with the large rivets, and the strength of fiberglass, there should not be a problem. Plus, if any one tries to open it and uses that much force, they will find a way to opened the hood no matter how it is latched.
Anyway, this was done with when the body was finished and on the car with the expertise of Jeff Miller (Da Bat). It was easy and no issues came up.
Hope this helps someone who might be interested in this type of mod.
Have a good one!!!
61 - 80 of 94 Posts
