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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I have 20 miles on 4519, The clutch seems to slip in 3 & 4 gear at higher rpms but only when I jump on it. Seems like I have depressed the clutch just a bit and is causing slipping. Any Ideas? Cable is stock Mustang, Can I adjust it?.
 

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Pro FFR Builder and Moderator
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Many new clutches will slip a little at high revs. Most manufacturers recommend doing 200-500 miles of normal street driving before really beating on the clutch.
 

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RDenney

I second Gordon's view. Run the clutch in carefully for a few hundred miles. Yeah I know it's tough but it's better than changing a burnt up clutch. I had about 300 miles on a RAM HD clutch when I had mine dyno tuned. The extra torque that was found due to the tune up was too much for the clutch and I smoked it in 3rd gear. When I took it out to replace it it was pretty obvious that the lining was only 'biting' across about 3/4 of the width. It still needed a few more miles to fully bed in before it could take the abuse. My new clutch was run in around town for at least 500 miles before I got on it and over 1000 miles before it was subjected to drag strip abuse. It is holding up just fine. HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The Clutch came out of the Mustang it looked new so, I used it. It is real tight low end, after I hit 3rd and punch it, it holds for a second then the RPM go up and it takes a second for the car to "catch up". May be the grease is a factor I did grease the throw out bearing, mistake?
 

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The pilot bearing and throw out bearing are sealed, you don't need to grease them at all. Lightly wiping a film of some hi temp grease on the nose of the tranny where the throw out bearing slides is about all that is neccessary. If you put more than a film on there it may have got on the clutch lining, in which case it may be time for a new clutch.

But, before doing that check your clutch cable to make sure that is is allowing the clutch to release fully. There should be a small amount of play down at the throw out fork. If it's tight then that could be your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had to get a come-a-long to pull the fork up to get the cable hooked up.....so this may be the problem, how can I adjust it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I guess I am running about 250-260Hp. Could the increase in HP be too much for the stock Mustang clutch?
 

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That power level shouldn't be any problem for the stock clutch so I would check out the clutch adjustment first.

The self adjuster up at the clutch pedal end needs to be released and reset. The clutch self adjusts to take up slack in the cable but will not release tension if it's too tight. I did away with the adjuster and used one of the aluminum quadrants so I can't tell you exactly how to do it. Maybe somebody else will chime in and help out with that one if you can't figure it out by looking at it.
 

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Pro FFR Builder and Moderator
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The clutch is one of those donor parts that is never re-used. Get a new clutch and have the flywheel surfaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the help. Gordon, that was not the reply I was hoping for, All I want to do is drive!!!!!! Anyone have any other ideas?
 

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We don't need no stinkin stitches
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RD,
If you had to use a come-along to install cable, I suspect the cable or adjuster is not allowing full clutch engagement. I was able to hook up my stock cable with stock quadrant quite easily. I have since added an alum quadrant with no need to pull the fork forward to assemble it. Maybe you're cable sleeve is not seated in pull point in bell housing??
HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Mike Noyes for the "winning reply" released the cable at on the foot box end to allow a little more slack on the bottom end. WORKING GREAT YEA!!!!!! a simple solution! Now I can cook the tires instead!
 
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