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Well after 14 years the clutch safety switch on my Mark II has started to fail. I have to push the clutch in two or three times before the car will start. Has anybody had to tackle this problem and what did you have to do change it out?
I just ended up by-passing the switch all together. Just have to remember to push in the clutch before I turn the car on. Mush easier, plus now I can turn the car on without having to get in the car.
 

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Over the years I experienced clutch safety switch issues on other vehicles, so I did an alternative to the safety switch when I built #5974. I ran the wires for the safety switch to a small spring loaded or momentary toggle switch hidden under the dash. To start the car I always pushed in the clutch (old habit) then pushed the toggle switch forward while turning the key.

This actually solved two issues; first, eliminating the safety switch and two, security to lessen the chance of auto theft. I also had Keep Alive fuse together with a Battery Cutoff switch in the trunk, so if the toggle switch was not pushed forward and the Battery Cutoff switch was not "On" the fuse would blow. So even if someone attempted to bypass the key switch, the car was still disabled by the trunk fuse.

I sold #5967 1.5 years ago, but I think the wiring discussed above can be easily retrofitted.

Good luck with your repair or modification.

Nate
 

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I’m not a fan of this stuff since I learned to drive a stick in a ‘66 MGB that belonged to a friend’s mother, then I bought a ‘71 Midget (since I couldn’t afford a B). After that I had a ‘67 Firebird 400 4-speed. None of them had any of these switches and my coupe doesn’t either. I respectfully suggest you train yourself to check that it’s in neutral before engaging the starter. And don’t park it in gear. (That’s why they call it a parking brake...)
 

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The problem is that one time you forget or that someone else drives your car.

I only drive the cobra occasionally so I don’t like the idea of having to remember that safety equipment is missing.

A few years ago at the track a guy was working under the hood of his car in the pits and asked his buddy to turn the engine over. Buddy reached in the window and hit the key, the car started and drove away hitting a beautiful original paint vintage racecar. Luckily only cars got hurt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Thankfully, we all get to choose how we build our cars. But safety devices do have a purpose. All modern cars are mandated to have certain safety features and devices. Similar to all those switches, lights and dials in airplane cockpits, these devices are now there because someone in history "paid the price" with his life. Post #11 above is pretty compelling for me.
 

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Well after 14 years the clutch safety switch on my Mark II has started to fail. I have to push the clutch in two or three times before the car will start. Has anybody had to tackle this problem and what did you have to do change it out?
Mine failed years ago, I have a T5 tranny and I found a built in neutral safety switch. Works very well.
 

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I too am one of those builders who has driven standard transmission cars starting early in my 78 years. My FFR dates back to 2007when I built it without such a clutch pedal safety switch. I have never had a problem since, for me, that switch addresses an issue that I have never encountered. That said, I can see the benefit of that switch for those who have not had those decades of experience driving manual shift cars without the feature. Drivers instinctively familiar with driving stick shift cars are becoming fewer and fewer, hence the benefit of this switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Well i finally worked up the courage and started tackling the clutch switch. Here is what I did, I removed the excess panel that exposes the clutch quadrant, then the side vent grill, (held in place with velcro) . unclamped the footbox vent hose and tied it out of the way. With a little measuring and eyeballing I marked a spot on the outside of the alum. panel directly outside the the switch position. Using an electric drill and a small bit I drilled through the panel in a couple of places to locate the exact place to cut a large hole. Now using a one and one quarter hole saw (1&1/2 " would have been better) I cut through the panel. After bending out the lower right corner a little, I was able to disconnect the wires to the switch and get the switch out. All this occured over 4 days, it was not easy. I put the new switch on, but could not get the wire plug back on in this tight place so I removed the switch, plugged in the wire and reinstalled it. Have not decided how to cover the new hole but the car starts!! I hope this helps someone. I just wish I had put a small access cover there when the body was off.
 

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Congrats on completing that difficult replacement. You might consider fabricating a cover for the hole and fastening it on with riv-nuts. I have a couple access panels finished that way and it worked well for me, if there’s room to install the nuts...
 

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I had a neutral switch in the TKO500 trans in my MkII. It did the safety aspect just fine but sure was a weird way to do it. 72 yrs and all but one of my cars has had a stick. The early ones had no switch but all in the last 30+ years they have all had a clutch switch. Can't tell you how many times I have hopped in the FFR, pushed in the clutch and turned the key, saw some gauges move but nothing else happened. Oh well, no car into the garage wall and I give my wife something else to laugh at me for.
 

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I have a clutch safety switch and included a manual bypass toggle switch. There are times when you park on a hill or in a parking spot sloping down with a curb. It's nice to manual lock out the switch, use the left foot on the brake and give it a bit of gas to start the engine. Old school carb sometimes needs a touch of the pedal to fire up. I'm not good with the heel toe on the brake and gas.
 

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I had similar problem having to depress clutch multiple times to get car to start. Turned out to be my starter solenoid and not the switch. Sure fooled me as I thought for sure it was the switch and was getting ready to bypass it.
 

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I ran both a clutch safety and a neutral safety switch in parallel. Either switch (or both) will allow for starter engagement, i.e. either the clutch pedal pushed down (all the way), and/or the trans in neutral. If the clutch is not pushed fully and the car not in neutral, the starter circuit is disabled, and a red dash warning light illuminates if start is attempted. In the event that both switches fail, I put in an override toggle switch under the dash that bypasses both switches, and the starter circuit can be activated irrespective of clutch or neutral positions.

This sounds like the option we all need. Safety & redundancy... My wife can never start the Cobra (maybe a good thing) & if the floor Mat slides down & gets stuck behind the pedal its just enough to not allow it to start.

Could you help the wiring Challenged with a schematic to help me build this system for my car.

Thanks
Bob
 

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This sounds like the option we all need. Safety & redundancy... My wife can never start the Cobra (maybe a good thing) & if the floor Mat slides down & gets stuck behind the pedal its just enough to not allow it to start.

Could you help the wiring Challenged with a schematic to help me build this system for my car.

Thanks
Bob
Sure. How's this...

My wiring goes through a small connection block. You could wire direct or use a plug/socket instead. As I said earlier, the flasher is for a dash warning light. It flashes if you try to engage the starter without either the car in neutral or the clutch fully depressed. Basically, if the relay doesn't send the 12v to the starter, it sends it to the flasher/red warning light instead. The wire colors don't really matter, it's just what I have.

362627


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