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Junior Charter Member
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One thing to check is where the throttle cable comes into the footbox (inside the car). If there is much of an angle from entry to the pedal, the cable will saw a slot in the ferrule and then can start to stick.

I upgraded to a Lokar cable and like it much better.
 

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Official OLD GUY
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3,784 Posts
Clutch cable Maint.

A simple maintenance trick for these cables is to remove it completely from the car, hang it up vertically and wash it down internally with your favorite cleaner - I personally use a rather expensive electronics cleaner -Tri-flo-

Then lub with a lithium/Teflon grease . . . No issues with the cable in 18 years.
Cable slides like a hot knife thru butter.

This is definitely one of the items on my yearly nut-n-bolt sessions.

Doc :beerchug:
 

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The RPMs staying up between shifts might be a result of a combination of carb tune and vacuum advance. Try disconnecting the vacuum advance (if you have one) and plugging the line to see if that changes anything.

HTH
Norm
 

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1st RFM/FFR Legacy Winner
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22,160 Posts
The lower end of the cable has the long threaded section that goes through the clutch arm. DO NOT tighten the nut/jam nut so tight that the cable can't move a little in the fork as it moves to release the clutch plate. If you do, the cable will bend with the arm arc and eventually wear the cable out from bending. It takes about 20K miles. Ask me how I know.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The lower end of the cable has the long threaded section that goes through the clutch arm. DO NOT tighten the nut/jam nut so tight that the cable can't move a little in the fork as it moves to release the clutch plate. If you do, the cable will bend with the arm arc and eventually wear the cable out from bending. It takes about 20K miles. Ask me how I know.

Greg
Thanks Greg, im gonna loosen that jam nut tonight since I did tighten it snug.

couple notes since driving it with the new cable.
- the idle is perfect again after i doubled the return spring up.
- the clutch pedal feels way smoother with the new cable and less resistance.

I have the cable slack adjusted so you pull on the firewall end and achieve a dimes with of space. I think it still too tight however because as you shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, as you let off the clutch pedal it shifts real snappy. im sure im not explaining it right. in other words, I just barely let up on the pedal and it jerks into the next gear. to me that seems like a matter of loosening up the cable?
any thoughts?
 

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I am trying to figure out the best cable too. I got this from the Ford Performance website.

M-7553-E302 1996-2004 Mustang
M-7553-C302 1982-1995 Mustang

I suspect the usable cable strand sticking out of the housings are almost the same, but one housing is a little bit different length to best get from the dash to the bellhousing on either a 82-95 or a 96-2004. I like the way my current cable fits, so I think I would like to get one with the same dimensions if possible.
 

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Am running Forte's cable, don't remember the part number. At 11,000 miles wanted to rasie the pedal engagement point a little more from the floor.

Adjustment seems to go well & pedal is more comfortable.

Found something while testing that I may have not noticed before or was not happening before.

If I hit the throttle about 2/3 3/4 down in 4th at 2200 rpm the tach will jump about 800 RPM then drop to the steady point for the new road speed.

The lower gears 1/2/3 seem to be OK

Is this slippage normal or do I need to try to adjust it out. Clutch is a Center Force single plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I am trying to figure out the best cable too. I got this from the Ford Performance website.

M-7553-E302 1996-2004 Mustang
M-7553-C302 1982-1995 Mustang

I suspect the usable cable strand sticking out of the housings are almost the same, but one housing is a little bit different length to best get from the dash to the bellhousing on either a 82-95 or a 96-2004. I like the way my current cable fits, so I think I would like to get one with the same dimensions if possible.
I work at an auto parts store and we stock both of the bbk cable kits here. They are almost identical to the ford racing cables. I was able to compare both of those cables the only difference is the length. the 96-04 cable was 13" longer that the 79-95 cable. I have a 302 with a tko trans and the shorter cable was the right length for me. the longer one would be to long for the way I routed my cable.
 

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Snake Farmer
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10,280 Posts
I am trying to figure out the best cable too. I got this from the Ford Performance website.

M-7553-E302 1996-2004 Mustang
M-7553-C302 1982-1995 Mustang

I suspect the usable cable strand sticking out of the housings are almost the same, but one housing is a little bit different length to best get from the dash to the bellhousing on either a 82-95 or a 96-2004. I like the way my current cable fits, so I think I would like to get one with the same dimensions if possible.
The best Original Ford, Teflon lined, (with no adjuster) cable, was part # E4ZZ-7K553-A if you can find one..
You do need a firewall adjuster, or the original Ford self adjusting quadrant set up, to use it.

Some of the Mustang guys swear the Maximum Motorsport cable is the next best thing to the original OEM one, and it is made by the same manufacture.

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-Clutch-Cable-Universal-Mustang-Ford-OEM-1982-04-P897.aspx
 
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