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Discussion Starter #1
mk4 just under 2k miles.
complete kit supplied adjustable clutch cable, with firewall adjuster. Willwood pedal box, quick time bell, ram clutch, tko 600.

I havent had to adjust the cable since I built the car, however a couple weeks ago the cable stretched and I had some trouble shifting gears and the pedal was real loose. So I moved out the firewall adjuster some, and made a small adjustment on the cable end down at the clutch fork. I achieved the dimes width space on the plastic flange.after that all was good for about 50-75 more miles or so. Yesterday I took a ride and noticed that I was having trouble shifting again, I can shift every gear but it feels a little clunky. I checked the tension on the cable again and there was alot more slack at the plastic flange again. could the cable have stretched again, that quickly? I now have the adjuster almost all the way out. I did check the fork position and it appears to be at the right distance in the opening as per the instructions when i installed it. Do you guys think that the cable stretched a second time? is this normal?
thanks for your input.
 

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it is possible that the clutch cable stretched again, but that shouldn't continue. Do you have a lock nut or jam nut against the adjustment nut located at the clutch fork? Maybe your clutch cable adjustment nut is unthreading slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will have to double check that it has a jam nut however the nut thats on there was tight yesterday when I checked it. I just find it strange that after almost 2,000 miles and now it has loosened up twice in a month
 

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If the adjuster hasn’t backed off then something is going wrong. Most likely cause is the cable and I would take it off and check it out. Does the position of the clutch fork look right? I have seen a clutch fork fail.

HTH

Norm
 

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If you have not done so check it is not getting hot from the headers. Look at the plastic casing and make sure it is not deforming, crushing.
David W
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If the adjuster hasn’t backed off then something is going wrong. Most likely cause is the cable and I would take it off and check it out. Does the position of the clutch fork look right? I have seen a clutch fork fail.

HTH

Norm
hey Norm,
the position of the clutch fork looks correct. its positioned where its supposed to be in the slot. I also bought the ford racing fork and TOB when I built the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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Ford cables are the best choice.

And if you call Mike Forte,he sells 2 cables for 50 bucks +/-.

Then, after you install one of the cables, you will have a spare, and we all know that you will never need any part if you have a spare siting on a shelf.

Derald.
 

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But...

Ford cables are the best choice.

And if you call Mike Forte,he sells 2 cables for 50 bucks +/-.

Then, after you install one of the cables, you will have a spare, and we all know that you will never need any part if you have a spare siting on a shelf.

Derald.
When, and if, you eventually do need a new one, you forget the spare (or can't find it) and buy a new one, then find the original "spare" behind a box on a shelf.

Regards, Rick.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so i just ordered m7553-c302 which is made for the 79-95 mustang. I looked at m7553-e302 and that appears to be for a 99-04 mustang. I work for an auto parts store and we sell the bbk clutch kits in store. they are nice but come with cable, quadrant, firewall adjuster and i dont need all that for $109. I did open both boxes and measured the cables. the kit for the 99-04 cable was 25" total length and the 79-95 was 20'' total length. I think the shorter one is the length I need. When I get the cable i will post my results.
thanks guys
 

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I have no idea what FFR supplied. My old MkII is on it's third cable in 12 yrs. This one is a Ford cable and it is obviously smoother than the others. I am glad you had the ability to measure them. I had both the 'c' and the 'e' in my wish list at Summit and wasn't sure of the difference. Thanks for that info. I will save it for sure.
 

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Some cables tend to break up by the quadrant. Can you look up in there and inspect? After mine was in the car, i tried to sand the sharp edges of the two pieces that make the walls of the groove in the quadrant. If the cable is not lined up perfectly, the sharp square edges will rub on the strands, causing a few at a time to break. The cable will probably stretch as a result, then eventually break.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
couple of small observations.
1) installed to new cable last night. it is a great fit length wise and I routed it the exact same way I did the old ffr cable. and also couldnt believe how much less effort it takes to push the pedal in. I took it for a drive last night and shifted in and out of gears very nicely.

2) I was able to achieve the dimes width space between the white plastic flange and the firewall adjuster by pulling out the cable away from the firewall. the only downside is at the fork side the adjustment is at its end and at the firewall the adjuster is very close to being all the way out also. but if nothing stretches than im good.

one thing I noticed is while driving, as i up shift into different gears the rpm seems to go up in between shifts, and to idle down I have to tap the gas pedal, then all is fine. is this clutch related? accelerator cable seems fine, no binding anywhere. carbed engine no other issues with it

thanks guys
 

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2) I was able to achieve the dimes width space between the white plastic flange and the firewall adjuster by pulling out the cable away from the firewall. the only downside is at the fork side the adjustment is at its end and at the firewall the adjuster is very close to being all the way out also. but if nothing stretches than im good.
thanks guys
Mike Forte makes a spacer that will put your firewall adjuster back into its normal range of adjustment.
 

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If tapping the gas pedal brings the high idle down and nothing is binding then check your return springs on the carb. You should have two springs with enough tension so this does not happen. Glad the Ford Racing cables work nice for you. I put a little grease on the cable in the quadrant area.
 

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Snake Farmer
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The OEM Ford 89-93 Mustang clutch cable, (which in my personal opinion, is the best one), does not have any adjustment on the fork end. The cars had an automatic adjuster as part of the stock quadrant, so it was not required. If you have a cable that has the adjustment on the fork end, it is not the same one.

Ford Performance sells an adjustable one, with a Ford part number, but that is not the same as the original one. They may have gotten better, but they had a completely different inner housing construction, and cable, similar to the Chinese knock offs.

Curious, did your old cable show any signs of fatigue, as far as any frayed threads?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The OEM Ford 89-93 Mustang clutch cable, (which in my personal opinion, is the best one), does not have any adjustment on the fork end. The cars had an automatic adjuster as part of the stock quadrant, so it was not required. If you have a cable that has the adjustment on the fork end, it is not the same one.

Ford Performance sells an adjustable one, with a Ford part number, but that is not the same as the original one. They may have gotten better, but they had a completely different inner housing construction, and cable, similar to the Chinese knock offs.

Curious, did your old cable show any signs of fatigue, as far as any frayed threads?
ac bill,
I did buy the ford racing performance cable with the adjustable fork end. m7553c302. it looks very similar to the one i pulled out of the car from the complete kit. the old cable did not show any signs of stretch but i guess it would be hard to tell unless i measure the length. no signs of fraying either.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If tapping the gas pedal brings the high idle down and nothing is binding then check your return springs on the carb. You should have two springs with enough tension so this does not happen. Glad the Ford Racing cables work nice for you. I put a little grease on the cable in the quadrant area.
yes the idle does go back to normal if i tap the pedal. I actually only have one return spring on the carb, I will add the second tonight. never had an issue with the one on it but 2 is safer.
I just wanted to get your thoughts on the idle not coming down between shifts, being related to or not related to the clutch cable adjustment.

any experiences anyone?
i will add the return spring and test drive the car tonight.
thanks again
 
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