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Junior Charter Member
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http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/400-1102/10002/-1

I had the Grade 8 bolts and they are terrific. My only complaint was one day I had to remove my headers...oh-oh...the Grade 8's were a b--ch to back off ! So I switched to these ARP pre-drilled for safety wire header bolts. For removal just snip the SS lock wire and use the 3/8" wrench . I already had the wiring pliers and stainless steel wire (below) which I had used to mock up the spinners on my PSE wheels.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...+3+1147708&searchTerm=header+boly+safety+wire

The method of installing the wire is included with the bolts. Basically the wire goes over the top of the left bolt (thru the pre-drilled hole) of each header. Spin the pliers for a neat braid then the same wire goes over that header pipe and under the right bolt of the same header . Once the wires are snipped tightly it looks neat and the SS ARP bolts are shiny !

When I installed ARP SS Safety Wire bolts I torqued them heat cycled the motor then cold re-torqued them again. That was 5+ years ago with no worries, adjustments and no leaks.
 

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Junior
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1,520 Posts
I have a set of Percy's ready to go if I find mine loose.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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P-e-r-c-y-'-s :checkeredflag:
 

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"The" FFR Master
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Teflon tape and red locktite. Never come out on me.
 

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No offense intended but Loctite on header bolts would not be my first choice.
 

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"The" FFR Master
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3,172 Posts
No offense intended but Loctite on header bolts would not be my first choice.
I have been doing it for over 20 years no problems. Why do you say not your first choice?
 

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I have been doing it for over 20 years no problems. Why do you say not your first choice?
I too have been sticking headers on engines for a very long time (about 35 years). Header bolts have a way of being problematic even under ideal conditions. This of course can be improved if people use the appropriate tools for the job. I've repaired (re-threaded, Helicoiled etc.) more than a few enthusiasts heads from header bolts that have been everything from cross threaded to rusted in, this includes Loctite. More often than not someone has rounded the head on the bolt or broke one off in the head. The right tools in most cases will eliminate the rounded heads but steel bolts in iron heads can still rust.

Using Loctite is like putting a chemical weld on the bolt, galling can be an issue particularly in aluminum head. My way of thinking is simple. I want the bolts tightened to a specific torque value and I want it to stay there yet still be easy to remove. If I can then stop the bolt from backing out after many heat cycles and still break it loose and then remove with my fingers I'm all for it. The fasteners mentioned in this thread provide me this option. More often than not this is not the case with Loctite, often a wrench will be required virtually every turn on the way out.

I build a lot of AR type rifles also. I feel the same way about Loctite in many of the applications that manufacturers feel fine using it. Specifically the barrel nut, I don't like it on the receiver extension castle nut either. I use it on many other applications. I'm not saying you can't use it. It's just a personal preference for me.
 

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"The" FFR Master
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3,172 Posts
I too have been sticking headers on engines for a very long time (about 35 years). Header bolts have a way of being problematic even under ideal conditions. This of course can be improved if people use the appropriate tools for the job. I've repaired (re-threaded, Helicoiled etc.) more than a few enthusiasts heads from header bolts that have been everything from cross threaded to rusted in, this includes Loctite. More often than not someone has rounded the head on the bolt or broke one off in the head. The right tools in most cases will eliminate the rounded heads but steel bolts in iron heads can still rust.

Using Loctite is like putting a chemical weld on the bolt, galling can be an issue particularly in aluminum head. My way of thinking is simple. I want the bolts tightened to a specific torque value and I want it to stay there yet stil be easy to remove. If I can then stop the bolt from backing out after many heat cycles and still break it loose and then remove with my fingers I'm all for it. The fasteners mentioned in this thread provide me this option. More often than not this is not the case with Loctite, often a wrench will be required virtually every turn on the way out.

I build a lot of AR type rifles also. I feel the same way about Loctite in many of the applications that manufacturers feel fine using it. Specifically the barrel nut, I don't like it on the receiver extension castle nut either. I use it on many other applications. I'm not saying you can't use it. It's just a personal preference for me.
I agree about the aluminum head. I should have said for cast iron heads.
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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1,123 Posts
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I will put some of those fancy Percy bolts on the Christmas list.

Stainless into cast iron heads or should I go black oxide? I noticed they had both.

Bobby
Stainless.

I am using the nickel plated steel Stage 8's in aluminum GT-40 heads and using anti-seize to prevent galling.

Hope that helps.
 

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2007 Calendar Cover Car
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2,797 Posts
Good post. I had some oil on the garage floor. Turns out the valve cover bolts were loose, letting oil leak out - so I tightened them up. Two days later when went check on the valve covers, I noticed one of my header bolts had almost backed out completely. I retightened all of them...the outer bolts were the loosest.
 
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