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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m doing a preliminary front end alignment and got the toe in and camber pretty close. But can’t figure how to do caster. To get the -0.5 camber the turn buckles have been turned all the way in. How do I get a caster adjustment?
 

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427 S/C, Alum Side-Oiler, TKO600, IRS, Pin Drive
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I have Pin Drive Lower A Arms. That made my upper arms a bit to long... I had to cut my aft sleeves down by almost half an inch (1/4 + 1/4) for each side...
 

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I’m doing a preliminary front end alignment and got the toe in and camber pretty close. But can’t figure how to do caster. To get the -0.5 camber the turn buckles have been turned all the way in. How do I get a caster adjustment?
You must have something assembled incorrect? You should have plenty of adjustment with -0.5 camber
 

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Not a waxer
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Jeffrey,
You're the guy who couldn't get his toe set a week or so ago, right? If so you're getting things out of order; you set toe LAST, after caster and camber are dialed in. A few questions:
---What lower control arms?
---Which set of chassis holes are they installed in; inner or outer?
---What spindles are you using? If from a Mustang what vintage and which set of holes in the spindle adapters were used?
---Which mounting location are the upper control arms installed in? The top, horizontal mounts or the side vertical mounts.
---Are the upper control arms assembled so that the ball joints angle outwards?

A couple photos of your front suspension assembly would go a long way in helping us point you in the right direction.

Jeff
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Jeff is right. You should easilly get 6-8 degrees caster.

But.... on my MKII, I do have the large Coil Spring/Shock package, so it does get tight with bigger caster amounts
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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The 4-5 that I have aligned ended up w/ the rear sleeve as short as possible and the front sleeve somewhere in it's middle range. It is fairly common to need to trim the rear sleeve to get caster >6.0 along w/ -.5 or more camber.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jeffrey,
You're the guy who couldn't get his toe set a week or so ago, right? If so you're getting things out of order; you set toe LAST, after caster and camber are dialed in. A few questions:
---What lower control arms?
---Which set of chassis holes are they installed in; inner or outer?
---What spindles are you using? If from a Mustang what vintage and which set of holes in the spindle adapters were used?
---Which mounting location are the upper control arms installed in? The top, horizontal mounts or the side vertical mounts.
---Are the upper control arms assembled so that the ball joints angle outwards?

A couple photos of your front suspension assembly would go a long way in helping us point you in the right direction.

Jeff
Here go’s Jeff,
  • 1988 Mustang lower control arms
  • mounted in lower holes
  • donor 1988 mustang spindles, mounted in top & third adapter holes
  • upper control arm mounted in top horizontal holes
  • upper ball joints mounted angle outwards
And here is a photo....
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system Tread Automotive tire
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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24,749 Posts
A couple of thoughts.
-To get more caster you would lengthen the front sleeve but that would reduce negative camber. AT one point on my MkII I drilled a new hole for the rear of the UCA cross shaft mount. Moving it closer to the center of the car got me more caster AND more negative camber.
Z by craig stuard, on Flickr
You can kind of see it here at the green arrow. The hole isn't real visible but the cross shaft is not parallel to the outer edge of the big plate it mounts to like yours is.
-As you get more caster you may end up w/ the front UCA sleeve too close to the coil over spring. If that happens just juggle the spacers on either side of the top coil over mount to move it rearward. If you don't have spacers, you can usually get away w/ plain washers because the coil over only moves in and out a little at the bottom so the angle change at the top is minimal. You can also see that on mine I bent the rear mounting ear a little to move it rearward. See the squiggly red line just to the left of the adjuster near the top of the shock.
 
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