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Discussion Starter #1
As I approach the process of carpet in the next couple weeks, I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing. My artistic ability lacks.

Do the majority or maybe average person carpet their own car?

Or

Is it more common to let a professional do this step?

Such as I noticed most people hire a professional to do the bodywork and paint. Though a number of people do that themselves with sucess.

Do most people hire a professional to carpet? Even though there are people that do it themselves successfully.

Jason
 

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I think most of it do it ourselves. I certainly have. Not to say that it hasn't, but don't recall anyone mentioning having a pro do it. It's not particularly difficult. Much like the aluminum panels, they're relatively precisely cut and if place where intended, fit well.
 

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I think most of it do it ourselves. I certainly have. Not to say that it hasn't, but don't recall anyone mentioning having a pro do it. It's not particularly difficult. Much like the aluminum panels, they're relatively precisely cut and if place where intended, fit well.
Awesome! Just want to make sure I was going to attempt something most people do not do.

Thank you

Jason
 

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Never did it before, knocked it out in a day including the upcarpet insulation. Used 90 spray glue.

357081


One thing I would suggest is carpet the outer footbox panels as individual pieces & install the panels last. Makes it a lot easier to do a good job inside the footboxes.
 

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Hi Jason,

I was really nervous about doing my carpet as well, as I had never done anything like it before. however I felt it was important to give it a go, as when the car is finished most people stand back admire it but you can't really show them what you've done if you haven't done the interior or paint. Painting was definitely outside of my capabilities.

I had to make up all the carpet for the foot boxes, as my car is right hand drive and fitted with a coyote, therefore none of the factory supplied pieces fit. The difficulty was compounded by the fact that my car was already painted with the body on before I started the carpet. I should have at least made templates before the body was on, but I was too time poor and had an offer I couldn't refuse to get the bodywork and paint done.

instead of the suggested spray-on adhesive, I used a gel type contact adhesive which allows you to put things in place and wiggle them around a bit for about 15 minutes before the gel goes off.

I started with the trunk of the car first as that gave me a good way to practice both cutting my own pieces and sticking them in correctly. Cutting them slightly oversized by about 2 to 3 mm prevented any unsightly gaps where two pieces come together. Have plenty of spare blades for your knife as sharp cuts will prevent the cuts from being wavy or the threads being pulled.

For holes through the carpet, I used either a wad punch or a soldering iron for the smaller holes. the soldering iron has the added benefit of cauterising the edges of the holes, preventing the threads from pulling. Do not try to drill a hole through the carpet, it will be a disaster.

for really large sections I found it better to do a small area first, then get the carpet in position, let it set and then peel the non glued section back and do the reminder of the piece. This is easy when you are using contact adhesive that you can just spread on with a spatula.

when all said and done it turned out really really well and I was quite pleased with my work. 2 years on it is still holding up like new.

make sure you have some really good ventilation, including fans for when you are doing the foot boxes the adhesive is pretty noxious.

for a beginner like me I think the slower setting gel adhesive was definitely the best choice I made.

Cheers Nigel in South Oz
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Never did it before, knocked it out in a day including the upcarpet insulation. Used 90 spray glue.

View attachment 357081

One thing I would suggest is carpet the outer footbox panels as individual pieces & install the panels last. Makes it a lot easier to do a good job inside the footboxes.
Awesome! Always helpful from the land of Oz
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nigel,

Thank you for all the tips.

I have a Koolmat kit that requires contact cement.

I was planning on carpet to aluminum in the trunk and use contact cement. Though I will look into a gel. Sounds like a super idea.

The koolmat top layer is silicon. So Mark Reynolds from Breeze explained I need to use silicon for the carpet. I like that I will have plenty of time to adjust.

The koolmat and contact cement is a different story. Mark says that set quick. He uses wax paper get is lined up and pulls the paper out.

I hope I get done nicely. I seem FFR cut the peices to avoid big seems. That's cool.

Thank you
Nigel from all the way around the world.
 

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A man much wiser than I, suggests painting the corners black to hide any potential gaps that could occur.
 

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A man much wiser than I, suggests painting the corners black to hide any potential gaps that could occur.
I think most of it do it ourselves. I certainly have. Not to say that it hasn't, but don't recall anyone mentioning having a pro do it. It's not particularly difficult. Much like the aluminum panels, they're relatively precisely cut and if place where intended, fit well.
THANKS
 

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Use that roller from the cool mat to roll the carpet down. Grab a couple sizes putty knifes to cram the edges under easily. Grab some clamps and some random weighted objects to help hold it down. The kit is way more accurate than I thought it would be, work into the edges and glue the snot out of it. I'd never done carpet before and I thought it was rather easy.
 

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A man much wiser than I, suggests painting the corners black to hide any potential gaps that could occur.
my body was already painted and fitted, so I used black gaffer tape. No waiting for paint to dry, no mess and sticks to pretty much anything.

Cheers, Nigel
 

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While we did secure the footbox and back wall carpet with adhesive, we did not secure the tunnel carpet and main floor pieces with glue. Instead we used a couple of hidden washer head screws (in black) and strips of hook-and-loop retainer. This allows the carpet to be easily removed for service work (getting to the trans tunnel, etc.). We also took the large removable pieces to a friend that does boat upholstery and had him do a nice edge binding to give it a finished look. Much like the early Corvette interior carpets were done.
 
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