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Discussion Starter #41
It's seems to happen more after I accelerate and then let off the gas with out putting the clutch in. Sometimes a little "pop" noise with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
The car is definitely running as good as it ever had starts right up!!!!
 

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Smoke appears to be oil and is occurring when the throttle is closed and vacuum is high which is indicative of it entering the cylinders through the top end; i.e. valve guides. Popping on deceleration is generally due to an exhaust leak; either at the header to head flange or header to sidepipe.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Well I guess I will close up my shop on it and not drive it until the mechanic fixes it. He's on vacation until August 7th
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
If the zero lashing was not done successfully would this cause it.

I did the zero lashing and I did my best but it forsure could be worng.

Jason

Screenshot_20200727-183832_Gallery.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Smoke appears to be oil and is occurring when the throttle is closed and vacuum is high which is indicative of it entering the cylinders through the top end; i.e. valve guides. Popping on deceleration is generally due to an exhaust leak; either at the header to head flange or header to sidepipe.

Jeff
I have tighten the exhaust I will continue to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I think it's the PS side. There is a small tick and the shop told me it could be the zero lashig settings on that side. That was were the worst spark plugs were.

I am going to remove the valve cover and have a looksie. See if the pushrods are out of place or anything. Maybe see what it takes to redo the zero lashig.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
I suppose if Im going to let a mechanic look at it I can try to do it myself. I will not do anything dramatic.

Railroad gave me some pointers on tunning too.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)

This is the PS.

Side to side movement which from what I understand is normal to have a little. One of them in my opinion is moving too much. But that's just a gut feeling.

No up and down movement at all. Visually every thing seems seated properly

20200728_122619.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Sorry about the breathing ever since I broke my nose it's never been the same lol
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Jeff

A couple ball joint flange bolts on the exhaust were lose.

I haven't revisited the the header bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #56

This is what I thought I would follow to adjust the valves.

I have the comp cam card it should tell me the recommended setting.

Not sure if this will help the oil leak but it needs done.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Screenshot_20200728-164617_Gallery.jpg


Not sure where that feeler gauge measurements are they were talking about on the video and I do not remember what I originally did. Maybe rocker arm ratio?
 

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Jason,
Your card shows a hyd roller cam. The video procedure should be followed for determining which valve you can adjust. With the adjuster loose, tighten it down till you have zero lash. That is no slack between the rocker arm, valve stem and push rod. This is not side to side movement. It is the movement in line with the valve stem, rocker arm stud and push rod. When this is attained, tighten the adjuster 1/4 of turn. Holding the adjuster in place with the wrench, tighten the locking allen head set screw.
Only 15 more to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Awesome thank you I will try again. I set it the 1st time. I feel like I would not have left them lose like that.
 

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The rocker arm that was loose, might warrant inspection. If you want, pull the rocker and make sure the internal roller is complete and intact. Check the roller on the end also. You can pull the push rod and inspect for straightness and no distortion on the ends.
When you put the push rod back in, make sure it is seated in the lifter. You can verify this by the push rod moving with rotation of the cam, engine, while adjusting the valves.
 
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