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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I was attempting to drive the car to the highway patrol station for the third time to get the vin tags installed. Disaster strikes again when I get about half way there and the car dies and wont restart (cranks but wont fire). It felt like it ran out of fuel, so I called my brother and he came with a gas can. Put some gas in and she fires right up, runs for another 10 minutes and dies again. I would drive for about 10 minutes and it would die, then let is sit for 15 minutes and run it again. I had to do this all the way home. What would cause this? Is the fuel pump going bad? Is it running until the pump gets hot and crapping out? I bought the pump "new" from Ebay so I am not 100% confident in its condition. Could the fuel line near the footbox be getting to hot from the exhaust pipe? It is a stock 5.0 EFI set-up all the way through. Please help.
 

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Sounds like the Ignition Module bolted on the distributor.
 

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The module is what always gets hot and makes it die. Seen it a million times. Cools down and starts up till it gets hot again. Look at what you distributor wires are plugged in to. Its bolted on the side of the distributor. I've never seen an electronic coil heat up and quit. Usually a coil causes a mis fire or its totally dead.
 

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Does it alway die at the same water temp and if so what is the water temp. If the engine is always stopping at around 150-160 it could have to do with the O2 sensors. That is about the time that the computer will start to read the exhaust gases and adjust the fuel mixture. If it is quitting a all different temps then it is the module on the distributer
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The TFI module I have is new. The problem has gotten worse over the past few trips. It happened for the first time a week ago and the interval that it dies seems to be getting shorter. It only happened once on a 1.5 hour trip last week but I didnt have to let it sit at all really, it fired right back up. Now it happens after 20 minutes or so and I have to let it sit or it just cranks.
 

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When it stalls, you should be able to turn the key and hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds and stop. This should confirm if the pump is having issues.

Non-Ford TFIs have been known to fail very quickly, so don't rule it out.

Have you checked codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I havent checked the codes. Maybe Ill pick up a new TFI and coil to be safe and see what happens. I can still hear the fuel pump when I turn the key forward, I thought it just may be on its way out.
 

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DJ

Start with the cheap items and work your way up. I had some what of a similar problem with my
TBI set up. The car ran great before it warmed up to 180 degrees, then started to quit. It turned out to be to much fuel pressure I was fouling out my plugs. When the engine got warm the after start enrichment would cut out and the engine would just quit. Check your plugs and your
fuel pressure. Check both the inlet and return pressures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, Ive been spending dome time trying to hunt down the problem. Here is an update: The problem has gotten worse to the point that the car will only run for 30 seconds before shutdown even when it is cold. Fuel pressure is 40psi when the pump charges and drops to a constant 32psi when running. After the car dies there is no spark from the coil (it is a new coil) but fuel pressure is good. Does this sound like a computer malfunction? What would cause this to happen?
 

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you may want to check the stator in the distributor,depending on the year model alot of them would deteriorate where the TFI module plugs in causing the same thing.Ive replaced modules before only to have to go back and change the stator.may not be your problem but just something to check.
 

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You definitely need to pull the codes. Should be one of the first troubleshooting steps on an EFI car. Can save you a lot of time. You can buy a brand new code reader with a digital display for $35 + S&H brand new.

Since you have changed the TFI I'd second the stator. I had problems with mine. Changed it and they went away. Hard to change though unless you have a press and they cost as much as a stock distrbutor. Easier to just pickup a new distributor at the local parts store. If it doesn't work you can bring it back.

A new/rebuilt computer is only about $100 bucks as well. Maybe someone can loan you theirs for a day to do some testing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I did pull the codes. I got EGR, MAP sensor, and IAC. I expected the EGR and MAP sensor codes since the EGR is not hooked up and the car has been converted to mass air. Im not sure but I dont think the IAC would cause problems this severe. I have a spare distributor and computer laying around, I will give them a try.
 

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I have experienced this same very thing but just different car. The problem turned out to be the most obvious...."The Gas Cap".....I had put on a non-vented when I should have put on a vented cap. When I would put the gas in, just as you descibed", what I was actually doing was "venting" the tank...My symptoms were just you like you described...just trying to brainstorm for you here. Tom
 

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Intermittant bad coil won't throw any codes. This sounds like the coil, but it could also be a ground. Check both. Since it is worth carrying a spare coil in your emergency kit, get one swap it and see what happens. Worse case you now have the spare.
 
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