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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
See update at bottom
I have an 88 5.0 - Have installed the A9L ECC with the '93 Motorsport Harness (just the main part). Richard Oben and I have the relay's clicking, the fuel pump on for the 3 seconds, and no fire on the plugs or injectors. I'm positive it's a ground, but I've connected all of them, and tripple checked all connections. Is the factory HEGO keeping my ground from happening?
Help???

[ November 21, 2006, 12:02 AM: Message edited by: ironheadvette ]
 

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You are sure you are not getting fuel?...(probably a stupid question considering who's looking over your shoulder)? The injectors are clicking (check the voltage per fordfuelinjection.com)? Gotta be a signal return (ground) issue.

Is the ECC new or used? If used, pull the connector and make sure all of the required pins are there on both ends; mine was missing one; someone dieted it in the shop and I kept getting the Neutral Safety Switch code; jumpered and I was OK. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Relay's are clicking - don't think the injectors are. We have traded out the ECC, Coil, TFM Distributor. I just checked both HEGO harness's (Richard's and Mine) - they different. The instructions from Ford say not to use the 88 to 91 HEGO harness. There are 8 wires out of the Motorsport harness, but only 5 on the HEGO harness. I'm thinking one may be my ground. I know the car should run without it... but ??
 

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You swapped the distributor, does that imply you also swapped TFI modules? I'm sure that's what you mean, but you might check it.

Mine went out without warning. Very common. If you've been working with Richard, he probably would've had you check this. I can bring mine up on Saturday if you want.
 

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do you have the manual that came with the harness?, i am running the 93 harness from ford motorsport also, #34 near coil plug bl,bk is a 20 guage fuse link that goes to starter relay.
#26 eec battery ground with a funny connector bk,w goes to ground, on the brown connector near
the self test input- red, light blue to crank only source, white,purple to crank only source,red,green to crank and run source,tan,yellow for tach. gray,red or green, purple for manual trans neutral safety sw
on the green connector near the main computer plug gray,yellow to run only 12 volt source, dark green,yellow connect to the fuel pump inertia switch then to fuel pump positive,pink.orange connect to the speed sensor negative and ground, gray,black to speed sensor positive. pink,green connect to check engine light (red led) and other side to crank and run power source.
 

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Make sure that you have pin-1 to the EEC connected to a 10 amp fuse and then directly to the battery. This is the Keep-Alive circuit. In many cars, you'll not be able to start the engine with this disconnected. Mine was one of them.
 

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I used an 1997 Explorer intake and injectors and the engine only ran on a stand once.

As I arrived at the point of start 7 out of 8 injectors had seized.
used persistence (power to the harness using a jumper wire) shocking them repeatetly to get them loose.

Might help...

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi everyone - I have a lot to check. Thanks to all for your replies. I'll let you know what I find out on power to injectors, Pin 1 on the ECC to 10 amp source - hot all the time. Wrench87- yes, I have the book (lots of notes on it)I'll compare it to your list.
Greg-we did change the module along with the distributor.
By the way - I just took delivery on a new GTM
 

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Originally posted by ironheadvette:
By the way - I just took delivery on a new GTM
Okay - that's it...

I officially hate you...

Well not really..
Congratz!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
GREAT NEWS! Upon checking the injectors (thanks Roger and Dale) I find they are hot under run, but test light goes off under crank. I tear everything out, re-check the ignition switch and isolate the run, run & Crank, and Crank only leads. It hit. It isn't running good - but I don't have the HEGO on it - so I need to understand the pinouts for a 93 HEGO, and make my '88 harnes work.
Thanks to all for your replys.
Brace
 

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Brace, Go to Helm Incorporated www.helminc.com and get the proper year EVTM (Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) from them; it will be worth it.
 

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Originally posted by ironheadvette:
I need to understand the pinouts for a 93 HEGO, and make my '88 harnes work...

Brace
Bruce,

Any chance you have a 94 HEGO harness and not a 93?

I think they changed from a 3 wire (grounded through the sensor body) to a 4 wire (seperate ground wire) in 94 (?) I think the plugs/connectors have a slightly different shape to them as well, so this might be your first clue.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Canuck1 - no chance on the HEGO harness. I pulled it and the rest of the wiring off a 88 Mustang. I compared it to the Harness Richard has, and it is different. The 88 (at the connector) has a wire that loops back to the pole accross from it - Purple/Yellow wire. The connectors are the same. They both plug into the Ford Motorsport Harness. The instructions say "do not use 1988-90 Mustang H.E.G.O. Harness.
I just don't know what a 93 Harness is expecting. The Sensors are 3 wire. Black is common, Gray/yellow & Blu/Grn on Driver side, Gray/yellow & Grn/Purple on Pass side. - Thanks for the reply
 

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Originally posted by ironheadvette:
The instructions say "do not use 1988-90 Mustang H.E.G.O. Harness...
I have read this warning as well. I don't know if this has to do with some type of factory recall or upgrade or what?

Clearly there are a few out there who DID use it!?

Anybody know anything about this note on the FMS harness instructions?

Sean
 

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Could someone explain the "do not use 88-90 HEGO harness" issue to me; is it just specific to the 93 Motorsport harness? My complete donor 90 harness (including HEGOs) has no issues does it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dale, I think it is a pin-out difference, not a defect. I built a Cobra in '92 and used a 1990 harness with the HEGOs - no problems at all. I wouldn't freak about yours.
I'm going to set the timing this weekend, hook up the Hego's and see what we have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok,
Now that I have fire, the engine won't hardly run.
We (I have help again) checked the TPS for the .94v to 5v - we get no change. It reads 5.04v on the orange wire. Then we find we have 5.03v on the green wire too. Greg took the TPS module home, and It worked great on his Cobra, going from .97v to 5.04v.
I unhook each sensor on the injector harness until I have them all unconnected. Still 5v.
I swapped out the injector harness, no change.
I am starting to believe the “bad Motorsport harness” theory. If I connect any single connector to a sensor (not the injectors), I get the 5.04 v on the green wire. Leaving all connectors off and connecting the MAP sensor (I have a spare) brings on the 4.94v if I add another Connector on the injection harness – it moves up to 5.04v. I re-checked the wiring off the green connector – re-grounded the wire to the speed sensor (even reversed the wires to see if it mattered.) I re-checked the Brown connections – we are ok. The check light comes on, the pump cycles.
Anyone want to swap for a good old crummy carb & intake?
Signed -
up2here
:mad:

[ November 21, 2006, 12:04 AM: Message edited by: ironheadvette ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here we go - put it all back together - same problem - still have voltage on the black-white wire to the TPI. We trace and verify all the grounds: and that they go to pin 46 on the ECC. Richard keeps insisting that the black/white must ground - so we discover that blk/wht turns to Gray/red wire in the Brown connector that is suppose to go to the Manual Transmission neutral safty switch. We grounded it instead.
The TPI came to life, and now we are down to getting a motor that's been dormate for 4 years to come to life.
Thanks again for your support!!
Brace :D
 
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