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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been looking at the E-Brake cables for months now, putting off installation because I can't seem to figure out how they are supposed to be run.

I understand that they are supposed to go under the 4"Ø H-tube, but after that I'm lost.

There's the rear bracket and then another bracket just behind the E-Brake handle in the trans tunnel, do I route through both?

Has anyone found a way to run them without going under the 4"Ø H-Tube? I am worried about the car hitting something and having the E-Brake cables act like arrestor cables.

I saw a post of drilling holes in the H-Tube and passing the cables through, but would this mean I have to shorten them? If so, where can i get new stops pressed on?

I know, lots of questions, but I'm just not sure how to install this.

Pics would be great.

Thanks,
Ivan
 

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Don't worry about your cables snagging the arrestor hooks on the aircraft carrier; you are overthinking this. Even with the e-brake disengaged, and driving, the cables stay snug against the 4" tube. I think it's pretty safe to say those two cables, if they actually snagged something while driving, would rip out pretty easily from the momentum of a 2300 pound car. Put this thought out of your mind. Run them under the 4" main tube, and hook them into the t-shaped equalizer bar that attaches to the ebrake handle via one cable. You need to coil up the spring in the e-brake handle by one revolution to tighten up the works.

It's fairly simple. Ping NiceGuyEddie; he went through this mid to late last year, and there was much discussion about it, and lots of pictures posted.
 

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Ivan,
The two brackets with two holes in them in the trans tunnel are for your cables, the forward holes are for late model disc brakes and the aft bracket with two holes is for early drum brakes. This is all explained in the assembly manual. I installed disc brakes from a 1999 Mustang so my cables terminated at the forward bracket. I drilled out the holes in the aft brackets and routed my cables thru them. I also fabricated a bracket and attached it to the 2x4 cross frame rail to help guide the cables into the tunnel and keep them away from the driveshaft.
Tim
 

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I used the rear most holes with aftermarket cables on my rear discs.

There's lots of posts on different routings. Here's a pic of how I did ours OVER the 4-inch tube. This usually requires modifying the stock cables or using aftermarket cut to fit cables like we did:




I later ended up cutting off the forward bracket because the cable block was rubbing on it...

HTH...
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was hoping to avoid running them under the 4" tube, while I agree that they won't act like aircraft carrier arrestor cables, I would also like to avoid having them exposed to the road in case the car 'bottoms out'.

If I route mine over the tube then I think I'm going to have to cut the cable and press on new 'ends'. Where can I get these? I thought I saw something about Tractor Supply Co having a press that can do this.

Has anyone seen interference with the suspension?

I like Mark's idea of having a routing guide to keep them away from the drive shaft.

Again, thanks for the help.

Ivan
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry, that was Tim's bracket idea, my bad.
 

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I did mine yesterday and did not go under the 4" tube. My cables used the forward most bracket. I cut off the rear one and used hose clamps like the fuel lines to keep it snug to the tunnel. I have heard that the rear brackets can interfere with the driveshaft. Clamps did the job just fine. Brake grabs real nice.
Doug
 

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I did mine the same as Doug.

I have Cobra rear discs, but it would be similar for any SN95 type rear disc I think. All of my remaining ebrake components are stock 1995 GT stuff.

Here are a few pictures of how I routed them (before adding the clamps to keep them against the trans tunnel wall). The cable and 'T' coupling are slack because the handle spring is pinned in these photos:


I slotted the front and rear handle mounting holes slightly to allow room for carpet and sound deadener under the handle and prevent the 'T'-coupling from rubbing on the frame. It still rubbed a little, so I riveted on a small piece of UMHW in the contact area (not in the photo) . It works fine.




In the last pic you can see where I removed the rear bracket. I suppose I could have used it, but I heard about the rubbing issues with this location as well, and so chose to use adell type clamps in a couple different locations instead.

Mustang Man's setup is very slick, but involves more fabrication than my limited abilities allow. :eek:

I do think the cable routing and brackets are designed to work differently for the Fox type handle, cable and drum brake rears, but I did not like the idea of running it under the frame tube either. Thankfully, this was not required with my setup.


Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys, I'll look this over this week and let you know when I get stuck...

Cheers,
Ivan
 

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Ivan,
The MK3's don't go under the tubes. Sean has the right idea.

c
 

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Mark, re: second picture....was wondering where you picked up the rectangular piece (brass?)that is securing the two steel cables coming from the rear and has the bolt going through it for adjustment....or did you make it ? Thanks, KG
 

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KG
It looks like Mark is using Locar Cables with a stock Mustang E-brake handle. I used OEM cables and removed the stock mounting tab and rubber grommet. Only one side was available but that did not matter, the one that was available fit great on both sides, and they were $23.00 each at the local parts store.
Tim
 

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Tim,
I found the piece on the Lokar website. They machine that piece themselves and it comes as a complete handbrake kit, so it appears it may not be available separately. May try making one myself.
Thanks for your reply.
KG
 

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When I got my Mark III and started the brake work I search a lot of the build sites. I came across (MY427SC.com) which I used for a lot of my research. I like the way he went through the frame rather than over it. I got the Lokar kit and it mounted in the frame with a little work. I then went to the plumbing store and found black pipe couplings that would screw on to the aluminum cable ends supplied in the kit. Next I got the pipe (I think 1/4" x 4 1/2" long) to match the couplings and long enough to go through the frame. Using a drill bit, just a little larger than the pipe, and drilled through the frame. Then I put the pipe though the frame, put the couplings on each end and tightened then snug up to the frame. Since I had a welder I just welded around the couplings and sealed the frame so no water would get in. I then cut the aluminum cable ends in half and threaded the ends into the coulpings. With a Dremel tool I cut the cables to fit and then connected the cables to the lever. Works like a dream. Check out the (MY427SC.com) site for pics and it will all come together.
I hope this helps a little.
BilBax
 

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KG, sorry I didn't see the post had been updated yesterday...

Yes, that is part of the Lokar kit. I believe Forte's has something similar to use the Lokar hand brake handle (for tunnel mount) with the stock Mustang cables.

You more than likely can find something on McMaster Carr as well...

Let me know if you have any more questions...

Mark
 
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