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I had carbon fiber laid on top of an aluminum dash and then clear coated to protect it from UV and improve the finish.
 

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I covered my dash with 3M's 1080 vinyl (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DIDTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1), 12" x 60". I like it because it's not glossy.

If you go this route, I recommend you pain the aluminum underneath the same color as the vinyl, so that if you scratch it you don't have shiny aluminum showing through. Also, after you cover the dash, let it "cure" for a week or three before populating the gauges & switches. The vinyl takes some time to harden.


John
 

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2001 mustang donor car
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I covered my dash with 3M's 1080 vinyl (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DIDTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1), 12" x 60". I like it because it's not glossy.

If you go this route, I recommend you pain the aluminum underneath the same color as the vinyl, so that if you scratch it you don't have shiny aluminum showing through. Also, after you cover the dash, let it "cure" for a week or three before populating the gauges & switches. The vinyl takes some time to harden.


John
Thanks John
That is all great advise, wouldn’t of thought of the undercoating. I didn’t think a 60” was lone enough?
 

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You end up with a small amount uncovered at the ends - a couple of inches, maybe more. But after you do the typical trimming, the uncovered part is hidden by the body.

John
 

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2001 mustang donor car
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You end up with a small amount uncovered at the ends - a couple of inches, maybe more. But after you do the typical trimming, the uncovered part is hidden by the body.

John
did you buy a blank dash from FFR or did you just it out of a aluminum sheet? if you did cut it out your self did you go a little thicker?
thanks John
 

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I bought a thicker piece of aluminum & cut it with a jig saw (it came out really well). I took it to a duct work shop to bend the bottom lip, but the machine broke the lip off! So I ended up buying a blank dash. In hind sight, I wish I'd ask F5 to provide a dash without the steering shaft hole cut out; that would have let me cut a smaller hole, which I think would have looked better.

If you want a thicker dash, buy the sheet (I use onlinemetals.com) & don't bother with the under lip. Instead use under dash panels with a lip at the front (that will go behind your thicker dash) and a lip at the back (that will go on the 3" square tube). You'll have some screws along the bottom of the dash, but you can easily get black screws & washers from boltdepot.com.


John
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I bought a thicker piece of aluminum & cut it with a jig saw (it came out really well). I took it to a duct work shop to bend the bottom lip, but the machine broke the lip off! So I ended up buying a blank dash. In hind sight, I wish I'd ask F5 to provide a dash without the steering shaft hole cut out; that would have let me cut a smaller hole, which I think would have looked better.

If you want a thicker dash, buy the sheet (I use onlinemetals.com) & don't bother with the under lip. Instead use under dash panels with a lip at the front (that will go behind your thicker dash) and a lip at the back (that will go on the 3" square tube). You'll have some screws along the bottom of the dash, but you can easily get black screws & washers from boltdepot.com.


John
I’ve had the problem with 6061, you got to make sure you get the right stuff. I think I’ll make my dash with the little bump out on the bottom for the switches like the FFR carbon fiber dash.
thanks John
 
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