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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Compression Test
Cylinder - PSI
1 - 180
2 - 180
3 - 170 2nd time180
4 - 180
5 - 180
6 - 180
7 - 185 twice
8 - 180

Leak Down Test

1 - 15% 2nd 12%
2 - 15% 4 times
3 - 10% 4 times
4 - 15% 4 times
5- 10% several times
6 - 15% 4 times
7 - 12% 4 times (TDC tool too long guess)
8 - 10% 4 times

I even did a couple in gear and neutral just to see no real difference.

7 I had to guess the TDC I got it close then raised it a little. There is no reason to assume there is anything wrong with it. Also not getting it zeroed out everytime perfect effect the reading a couple %
 

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Leak down results of up to 20% for a street engine are considered within range. Keep in mind a leak down test is an indication of the condition of the compression rings, and does not indicate the condition of the oil control rings. Your compression readings are normal, and your leak down test is OK. This is not your oil consumption issue. As others suggested in previous posts a possible intake gasket issue, a PVC issue etc...I would not do a tear down until you eliminate all external possibilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Agreed. Sucks because I just had the intake gasket redone. The technician said he put dimples in the block and manifold. IDK seemed insistant. Hopefully he did not damage it accidentally.
 

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Jason, if I remember correctly, the dimples were only added to the china wall areas of the block and manifold. These areas will not have anything to do with burning oil. They can be a serious source of leaks but that's it. The area of concern for burning oil on the intake manifold is the bottom of the intake to head seal at each intake port. After market heads and manifold can seriously change the sealing area available. My heads and intake resulted in a 1/16 inch sealing surface with the gaskets commonly recommended. I ordered gaskets from Summit Racing based on port dimensions and got a much better sealing area.

HTH

Norm
 
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Jason, I didn't read all the old posts but one thing stands out. Break in oil should be non synthetic and contain zink, otherwise the rings will never seat. Also when you were asked about "flat tappets" you answered they were roller rockers. Tappets/ lifters are solid or hydraulic for the flat type or roller hyd. which would be held in by either a spider mounted in the lifter valley, or link bars connecting the intake and exhaust lifters for each cylinder. Yes on the dimples. They help hold the China wall gasket/ silicone from blowing out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jason, if I remember correctly, the dimples were only added to the china wall areas of the block and manifold. These areas will not have anything to do with burning oil. They can be a serious source of leaks but that's it.

Yes I was just discussing this with Railroad he said the same thing.

The area of concern for burning oil on the intake manifold is the bottom of the intake to head seal at each intake port. After market heads and manifold can seriously change the sealing area available. My heads and intake resulted in a 1/16 inch sealing surface with the gaskets commonly recommended. I ordered gaskets from Summit Racing based on port dimensions and got a much better sealing area.

Norm

Thank you for the info. Railroad was also saying the pretty much the same thing.

What gasket did you use Norm?

What do others thing the best gaskets are?


TFS heads Edelbrock intake.

This seems the next step, redo the redo of the gasket. I am considering doing this but I am going to investigate a shop 1st see what they have to say.

Ford Strokers is in Elburn about 10 15 min from my house. I have been emailing back and forth. I will see what he has to say.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Jason, I didn't read all the old posts but one thing stands out. Break in oil should be non synthetic and contain zink, otherwise the rings will never seat. Also when you were asked about "flat tappets" you answered they were roller rockers. Tappets/ lifters are solid or hydraulic for the flat type or roller hyd. which would be held in by either a spider mounted in the lifter valley, or link bars connecting the intake and exhaust lifters for each cylinder. Yes on the dimples. They help hold the China wall gasket/ silicone from blowing out.
Hey Drummer Mike. (I haven't for got about you just working on this 1st)

Yeah I used a partial synthetic no good. Now it has Lucas Break in oil.

Rocker roller hydraulic Spider and dog bones.

Thank for all the info.

Jason
 

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I checked my order status from Summit Racing ( it is too long since the order so no record) and looked through my records but can’t find the intake gasket receipt. Wouldn’t matter anyway. What worked for my setup might not work for yours. Measure your intake and head ports and use those to fill in the port dimensions on the Summit Racing Website.
 
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Agreed. Sucks because I just had the intake gasket redone. The technician said he put dimples in the block and manifold. IDK seemed insistant. Hopefully he did not damage it accidentally.
Jason,
We discussed the excessive smoking after you posted a video on July 27, before the intake gaskets were redone, so this is obviously not a new problem that has just occured afterwards. That doesn't mean that the root of the problem may not be due to an intake gasket issue, perhaps due to mismatched parts like Norm mentioned. You could remove the carb and use a boroscope through the intake to examine the intake ports at the head...if they are dry it isn't sucking oil from the lifter galley however if they show oil residue it is.

jeff
 

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Valve guide seals?
The intake ports are 1.05 X 1.90"
The head ports are 1.20 X 2.00" per manufacturer data.

I think the Felpro 1250S might be a good choice, but would want to match them to the intake and heads.
Maybe a more experienced builder can recommend a good brand and model of gaskets.
I have used the Felpro 1250 and they disintegrate or melt, especially near the coolant ports.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Jason,
We discussed the excessive smoking after you posted a video on July 27, before the intake gaskets were redone, so this is obviously not a new problem that has just occured afterwards. That doesn't mean that the root of the problem may not be due to an intake gasket issue, perhaps due to mismatched parts like Norm mentioned. You could remove the carb and use a boroscope through the intake to examine the intake ports at the head...if they are dry it isn't sucking oil from the lifter galley however if they show oil residue it is.

jeff
Yes sir I know. That is one reason I had the intake gasket replaced a couple weeks ago.

Good advise on the scope. I will do this.

Thank you as always

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The intake ports are 1.05 X 1.90"
The head ports are 1.20 X 2.00" per manufacturer data.

I think the Felpro 1250S might be a good choice, but would want to match them to the intake and heads.
Maybe a more experienced builder can recommend a good brand and model of gaskets.
I have used the Felpro 1250 and they disintegrate or melt, especially near the coolant ports.
Awesome 👍 thank you so much!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The intake ports are 1.05 X 1.90"
The head ports are 1.20 X 2.00" per manufacturer data.

I think the Felpro 1250S might be a good choice, but would want to match them to the intake and heads.
Maybe a more experienced builder can recommend a good brand and model of gaskets.
I have used the Felpro 1250 and they disintegrate or melt, especially near the coolant ports.
Awesome 👍 thank you so much
 

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Went back and looked at the FFR side pipe thread. As Jeff said, the 1 and 7 plugs show the most oil fowling. I would follow Jeffs' recommendation, pull the aft carb and have a look down the #7 intake port. Should be very easy to see with your dual quad intake. Might not even need a boroscope.

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Went back and looked at the FFR side pipe thread. As Jeff said, the 1 and 7 plugs show the most oil fowling. I would follow Jeffs' recommendation, pull the aft carb and have a look down the #7 intake port. Should be very easy to see with your dual quad intake. Might not even need a boroscope.

Norm
I will do this forsure thank you both. I'm on it.
 

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After re-reading everything two or three times, and knowing that you do not have any type of crankcase vacuum system hooked up, I'm seriously leaning toward a bad set / installation of the intake manifold and/or gasket(s). Small block FORD's are notorious for trouble with the intake gaskets either not matching the intake or heads (more prevalent with today's mix-n-match parts assemblies), or both -OR- moving when installing. Gaskets need to be port matched both on the head AND the intake. They need to be glued down to the head. Corner studs need to be used for alignment when installing the intake. Several passes need to be done when torquing down the intake - one pass won't get it anywhere torqued properly. The proper torque sequence needs to be followed.

FWIW, "dimples" were used back in the old days to help keep the cork gaskets from moving around. IMO, not required today as almost everyone is using RTV of some kind for china wall sealing.

Like I stated earlier and was repeated by others, a "leak-down test" will not show oil ring issues, it's a compression ring(s) test.

Doc
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Big blocker I agree with you and guy at Ford Strokers and DSs racing both agree with you and everybody on this website that's been helping me I'm going to get these bore pictures and go from there
 
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