The dashboard wiring is all buttoned up and all the components test out fine. I've seen enough of wiring to last me for quite a while!
With the dashboard finally set in stone one of my pet peeves became glaringly obvious. The steering wheel is at an odd angle, pointing to the left a bit. It's probably designed that way to work with the slightly twisted seating position and to keep the steering shaft out of the way of the engine and headers. I saw in this forum long ago that some had addressed this by relocating the lower steering shaft bearing. I checked it out and it will work! So I'll be breaking out the grinder and the welder one more time!
More later ...
This is an exciting time in my build! It's soon time to cover up all this chassis work by setting on the body, closing this chapter of the build and opening a new one. But first it's time to get to all those little things that are so much easier to access now. Here's what I've been up to lately ...
This version of the dashboard is Done Done! I say "this version" because there are a few things that could be improved upon. But I've laid that foundation that will allow those to be addressed later.
Here's the view from the front It's inspired by the GT40 dashboard, gauges high and vertical with switches low and on a bit of an angle. Instead of toggle switches I chose to use Conturas for a more modern look. The dash face is in primer for now. The final finish will be part of the interior work that will come later. Any suggestions? View of Finished Dash from the Front by Team Limer, on Flickr
I had a productive day after a week off with our house guests.
Final torque and locking fasteners on exhaust manifolds.
Installed heat shields at foot boxes.
Relocated the gas pedal (after
some trimming) to be a bit higher. Now it’s perfect!
Temporarily installed mounts for yet-another-dashboard that will pivot at the bottom ... a project for another year!
Here's a pic of the pedals. I had to shave all of the webbing from the upper right side of the pedal sensor housing to get the plug out of the way of the steering shaft. Then I was able to reposition the pedal higher. Note that I did not cut the pedal arm. But I did flip the pedal pad around. Relocated the gas pedal. by Team Limer, on Flickr
The gas pedal height is level with the brake pedal when it is full on ... perfect for heel & toe. The clutch pedal rests a little higher than the brake pedal, right where I like it.
I fabricated and installed a lower dash panel. It's attached with #10 screws and rivnuts making it easily removable for access to the power distribution and supplementary fuse panels. I'll be mounting the window switches in this panel and probably a little storage. Dash with lower dash panel installed. by Team Limer, on Flickr
Delving into the mysteries of AC systems!
I have the Vintage Air AC system that Factory Five sold for the Gen 2 Coupe and I'm trying to mate it to a Coyote from a 2015 Mustang. Fortunately the engine came with the AC compressor and the suction and pressure hoses that attach to it. And I harvested the compressor clutch connector from the original engine harness. That's about a thousand buck in parts!
The plumbing is pretty straight forward but control of the fan is a mystery to me at the moment. I wired the radiator fan so as to be controlled by Coyote Control Pack. But it has no provision for air conditioning. There's the Vintage Air trinary switch. Then there's the pressure switch in the hose from the compressor to the condenser (with no mating connector, pigtail or pin out). Do I use the trinary switch, the pressure switch, or both? Do I wire the AC stuff to provide an alternate power source to the fan? Or do I wire it to provide an alternate ground to the Control Pack fan relay?
I guess I'll figure something out sooner or later. But if anybody's been down this road I'd appreciate some insight!
After studying my wiring harness, wiring diagrams, and input from a few folks I now have a plan for the AC plumbing and wiring.
I'll use the compressor hoses that came with the Coyote engine from the Mustang. I'll cut the end of the suction hose and crimp on a #10 splice with a service port for the low side. Likewise I'll cut the end of the pressure hose (eliminating the Mustang service port and pressure switch) and crimp on a #8 splice with a service port for the high side and extend the hose to the condenser. The rest of the system will be pretty conventional. I got some nice 90 degree bulkhead connectors that I'll use to run the hoses through the firewall and fabricate a mounting plate to take the strain off the aluminum.
I will leave the Coyote Control Pack fan wiring in place to power the fan based on engine temperature. I'll use the wiring, fuse and relay in the Ron Francis harness to power the fan based on AC demands via the AC thermostat switch and the trinary switch from the Vintage Air kit. I'll splice a connector into the fan power wire to attach the fan power wire from the Ron Francis harness.
I looked into the consequences of current back feeding from one fan power circuit to the other. Both circuits use a relay that will effectively block current coming from the other circuit. So back feeding current won't be a problem.
And all of the wires I need are available in the harness at the front of the engine, Yay!
The AC lines and heater lines from the evaporator to the firewall are done. I used 90 degree bulkhead connectors with bead lock ends for the AC lines and straight bulkhead connectors with hose barb ends for the heater hoses. I fabricated plates for both inside and outside from 16 gauge steel for a more finished appearance and to ease the load on the firewall aluminum.
To get those hoses in place I had to move a few things around behind the dash. I needed to reroute some wiring to make way for the hoses. And I swear that this is the seventh time I moved the wiper controller!
I'll wait till the body is on to do the rest of the plumbing. It's been so long that the body's been off that I don't remember where I need to route the lines.
There was a shipping SNAFU so it took a while for the heater fittings to arrive. Once they did it was short work to finish the plumbing for the heater and button up the cooling system,
I made a bracket to mount the washer bottle with the bypass heater control valve tucked in behind it.
The heater hoses are neatly routed. The fittings to the bulkhead connectors make for a clean installation.
I'll finish the AC lines after the body is on and the sheet metal under the hood is finalized.
Next up ... suspension alignment and EPAS installation.
I made a lot of tweaks and fixes since the last go kart so it was time for another.
The cockpit feels a lot better now. The steering wheel is better centered and positioned 1" farther away. The clutch pedal height is lower and the throttle pedal is up off the floor a bit more. It all just feels so much better than before. I'm really happy with the custom dash. It looks better and offers great visibility for the gauges. However, I suspect that the top of the dash will be a bit too close to the windshield. I have a plan for that. We'll see later how it looks with the body on.
Sometimes I can be a little dense. I can't explain why it took so long for me to make sense of the speedometer sensor wiring. But I finally have it right ... I think. At least now the needle moves when the car goes forward!
I opted for the manual steering rack for reduced steering effort. But the effort is still pretty high and the steering is really slow. I could probably live with the steering effort but not the slow steering. I'll have an EPAS soon. And probably a quicker rack after that.
To install the power window set up that I settled on I had to make custom door frames. The entire door, from the hinge to the striker, is all custom fabrication. The only parts of the original door that I'm using are the hinges, the latch, the striker and the outer surface of the door skin. With some time on my hands I tackled the fabrication of the inner door panel. The shape is pretty complex. I used 22 gauge aluminum to make the several pieces that form the perimeter. A piece of 0.050" aluminum in the middle ties everything together. Here's a pic of it with Dynaliner applied. I regret not taking a picture of it in bare aluminum. It looked pretty cool! I hope I remember to get that pic when I do the other door.
I made an inner panel for the driver's door. As usual, the second attempt is better than the first. I am REALLY happy with it. Maybe happy enough that I'll take another shot at the passenger side panel ... another day.
Here's the panel on the bench ... Driver Door Inner Panel by Team Limer, on Flickr
And here it is on the car. The cockpit is shaping up to be a pretty nice place to enjoy a road trip! A View of the Cockpit by Team Limer, on Flickr
The EPAS controller is installed and wired up. I'm going to leave the installation of the EPAS motor to The Travelling Builder. This thing is just about buttoned up! All Buttoned Up by Team Limer, on Flickr
I turned the car over to The Traveling Builder to install the EPAS motor, then set the ride height (a guess at this point because there's no body, glass, etc). He made short work of it! When he brought it back we set the body and hood onto the chassis.
Now the next phase of the project begins. Before I took the body off a couple of years ago I had done several modifications that go hand in hand with the chassis mods. Over the course of time I found that my methods weren't the best. In particular, I used the 3M High Strength Repair filler as a binder in a sandwich of fiberglass and sheet metal. I'm not faulting the product, rather my use of it. I found that it didn't take much effort to cause this fabrication to delaminate. I'll be taking another approach that I will describe in detail when I get to that part of the project.
Here's the installation of the EPAS motor. The upper shaft extends through the lower steering shaft bearing and joins with the shaft that connects to the steering wheel. The lower shaft is splined and connects to the steering rack via a shaft with two U joints. Mark called it "Like butter, baby!". EPAS Motor Installed by Team Limer, on Flickr
The body is now set in place but not aligned or fastened down. It dropped right into place with no fuss. I'm really happy with the way it fits, especially with how the fuel tank and mufflers are so neatly tucked away. Body On by Team Limer, on Flickr
Next up is to align and bolt down the body, I expect I'll need to make a few brackets for that. We'll see why later. Then hang and align the doors.
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