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Discussion Starter #82
That’s better!
After some fitting up I wrapped the provided gauge mounting plate with matching vinyl. Later I’ll replace the cheesy screws with something nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
A good couple of days

This Sunday my friend Bob came by and helped with a ton of stuff. Except for a few needed parts we pretty much wrapped up the brake lines and the fuel lines (from the tank to the firewall).
With an engine hoist borrowed from yet another friend we flipped the chassis back to right-side-up.
First we picked it up off the dollies from each side ...


We picked up one side and lowered the other until it was hanging from only one hoist. Then swapped positions (that's my buddy, Bob) ...


And we continued to roll it until it was right side up.


After a run to NAPA and Bernheisel Racing (great guys), a local race car shop I had the parts to complete the brake lines and to finish the fuel lines from the tank to the firewall. Done!
 

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I bet that was a bit of a nail biter :)

Nice work.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Suspension Progress

With the exception of a couple of parts that are tagged, the front end is installed and torqued. This includes the steering shaft and the brakes.


Also I got the rear installed and tightened. The brakes are torqued, but the rest is just "roller tight" because a lot of it will need to be loosened for final alignment. This is the Lincoln/T-bird IRS where the alignment is done by adjusting the rod ends. Aligning the rear is going to be a real pain! I imagine that the Mustang based IRS is a little easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #86 (Edited)
I bet that was a bit of a nail biter :)
Thanks, Jim.

It actually wasn't too bad. I guess I learned a lot from the suspense of putting it on it's roof a few weeks ago. I was able to find a good balance point and could adjust it pretty accurately with the ratchet straps. The load was always balanced and under control ... except for the moment when one side dropped the last three inches onto the dollies! One of the hooks slipped because of the change in lifting angle as we rotated the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Update

Here are a few pics of progress before life got in the way again. I hope to get back to it again in a few weeks.

The front suspension and steering are torqued down and ready to roll. I have not attempted to do an alignment yet.


Since I'm pretty convinced that the plan for under car exhaust is going to work, this spot is ideal for a battery box. I'm using a weld-in battery box sitting on top of the 1-1/2" round tube at the front of the passenger foot box. With a couple of gussets below it's very solid!


The Vintage Air HVAC box is nestled into it's new home.


I really like how the fuel line plumbing worked out. The fuel pump and two filters are nestled between the IRS cage and the fuel tank. I'll fab up that final trunk floor panel after I determine the final position for the tank. I think I can drop the forward side a bit to get a flat trunk floor.


The half shafts just clicked into place. Nice! The rear suspension is roughly aligned and tightened down, ready for final alignment.


After finishing the installation of the rear brakes I threw on the wheels for a quick clearance check. All's good!


And I just couldn't help myself but to pretend to bang a few gears! Vroom! Vroom!


Oh, one last thing. This little baby needs to be made ready for it's new home.
 

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Great work! Not a Coupe owner but still appreciate the build detail.
I like seeing what other people are working on here at the site.

Can't wait to see the final outcome!
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I used Lizard Skin products on the firewall. I applied two coats of the sound control product, two coats of the heat control product and a coat of their semi-glass top coat.
 

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Discussion Starter #91 (Edited)
Figuring Out the Engine Position

With the help of some friends I came up with a used Coyote from a 2015 Mustang. There's only 29,000 miles on it ... barely broken in!

I've been planning to install the engine forward a bit ... much like SeattleDad did with his build. He moved it forward about 1-1/2" by slotting the pedestals and separating/flipping the base of the motor mounts. Since I enjoy fabrication and have a buddy who can't wait to weld something I thought I'd take a different approach. I intend to fab up new pedestals so I can put the engine as far forward as I want without messing with the mounts or having the starter interfere with the pedestal.
I took a few measurements from the engine and the frame to confirm what I'd read on these forums. If the engine were to be moved forward 3" the crankshaft pulley will touch the front cross member. I fabbed up the new parts adding 3" to the length of the upper parts. This will let me use the existing pedestals for positioning the new ones while allowing me to put the engine where everything will fit ... up to 3" forward.

I'll definitely be recruiting help from some friends when it comes time to set in that engine. More on this later.

 

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Discussion Starter #93
A little more sound deadening ...

I knew that I had some Dynamat Extreme on hand from an earlier project but I didn't plan on using it on the coupe. I already used Lizard Skin on the exterior. I was surprised to find that I had several sheets of the stuff! Enough to cover the high-noise areas. So, why not!

Driver footbox


Passenger footbox and firewall


Tunnel and cockpit rear wall


Trunk
 

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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
Test fit the dash

I did a test fit of the dash today. No clearance problems. And now I see how the dash wiring harness has to be routed to plug in to the main harness.

However, I'm surprised at how far I had to extend the upper steering shaft to get the steering wheel hub to bolt on. The pocket for one of the two belleville washers is not inside the lower steering shaft. There's still plenty of engagement so I'm not worried about the shaft coming apart. I wonder if the reason behind this is that the coupe is bit longer than the roadster.

 

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Discussion Starter #95 (Edited)
First test fit for the engine

My buddy Bob (the guy that can't wait to weld something) came over for a work session today. Our mission was to take a first shot at placing the engine.

A little bit of background:
My Gen 2 coupe was originally ordered with the mod engine mounts. My first plan was to use the 4.6L DOHC engine from the donor car, a Lincoln Mark VIII. But the plan changed to use a Coyote after I sold off that engine to a more appropriate home. Another part of the plan is to shift the engine forward a bit and to run undercar exhaust instead of the usual side pipes. The reasons for wanting to shift the engine forward include more balanced weight distribution, better access between the engine and the firewall, and more room for the exhaust to run into the tunnel. I haven't seen anybody on the forums pull off this trick with a Coyote, so I think this is uncharted territory!
I've been studying the build thread by SeattleDad for tips on shifting the engine forward. He separated the two halves of the motor mount and flipped the mount over to gain about 1-3/8". Then he slotted the motor mount pedestal to get about another 1/2". He had to replace the starter with a mini to fit it in behind the motor mount pedestal. BTW, SeattleDad and I both got in on a buy of foot box sheet metal modified for Coyote fitment by 2BKing a couple of years ago, so I should be good there.

So here's what we did today:
I wanted to avoid the problem that SeattleDad ran into, so it seemed likely that I would have to relocate the motor mount pedestals. I cut all the pieces I would need to make new ones from 3/16" steel.
We lifted the engine off the shipping pallet and tried to drop in the engine with the mounts and pedestals as is. The heads ran into the foot boxes big time.
We lifted the engine out again did the motor mount flip. This time we just cleared the foot boxes but we were still too tight to the firewall for any maintenance at the back of the engine and the starter wouldn't fit. There was room to go farther forward since the front pulley was still a good 3" from the front cross member. So, after some precise measurements we cut off the existing pedestals and fabbed up new ones using the parts I'd already cut.
With the motor mounts and pedestals bolted to the engine we hoisted it into position. It wasn't quite squared up and it was pitched nose down by about 5 degrees. But it was promising. The foot boxes were not an issue, there was adequate room to get to the back of the engine, the front pulley was about 1" from the cross member, and the stock Coyote exhaust manifolds just might fit when we get the engine squared up and angled down in back a couple of degrees.

We were pretty beat, so we put the engine on a stand and called it a day. I need to shop for a few bolts and get ready to take another run at this after the holiday.

Happy Thanksgiving!


The motor mounts and parts for building new pedestals:



My buddy Bob is welding up the new pedestals:



While I cut off the existing pedestals:



The engine is in the bay! It's not squared up yet, but it sure looks promising.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
There's a link in my signature to a Flickr Collection of pictures of my build. It struck me that it's been a long time since I updated it, so I took care of that today.

Speaking of my signature, I've been participating in scavenger hunt style road rallies for charity as a member of Rally North America for several years. There's a link to my rally page in my sig. This past summer's event (which I had to pass up) was documented by Sopwith Motorsports and will be shown as a 6 part series starting December 5 at 6 pm and again at 9 pm. The rally route follows US-50 from Pueblo to Carson City thru some of America's most beautiful areas.

Enjoy!

Meanwhile I'm working on the chassis wiring. The changes I made to the chassis present some problems and some opportunities. As always, here's another chance to learn a new skill!

Also, I'm preparing for another session with some friends when we can take another shot at setting the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Getting on with the wiring

This is going to take some time, but the fact that the Ron Francis wiring harness fits so well is a huge help! The main harness just fits, period! I re-routed the main harness just a bit to take advantage of the trough formed by the custom firewall. This keeps the bulk of the harness out of the way. I added a master cut-off switch (following the lead of edwardb) and a six-circuit sub panel on the passenger side to support some extras; marine windshield wipers, power windows, door poppers, an audio system of some sort, a 12 channel receiver and whatever may come later on.

In this pic I'm beginning to marry up the dash wiring to the chassis harness. The dash is supported by a couple of pieces of wood clamped to the 2x2 frame member behind the dash.



And this weekend I'll be getting some help to take another shot at placing the engine and welding in the new motor mount pedestals. I refuse to work solo on stuff that could crush me!
 

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It's funny, I started out with great intentions for my wiring to be perfectly routed and very neat and clean and then I had scope creep and things changed as I went on and I had to add a fuse and relay box into the glove box and reopen the wiring harness a few times, then things got a little messy :) The good news is everything in my dash wiring is soldered for all splices and shrink wrapped. So I shouldn't have any problems, but it got messy. Maybe someday when I have nothing going on and I'm bored, I'll try cleaning it up :lol:

I think yours is going to turn out amazing Glenn, it looks really good so far.
 
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