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Discussion Starter #61
I went to a local fabrication shop to get an aluminum blank cut and bent for my dash. I’ll also have a bit of extra aluminum for other it’s and pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
With the help of a friend and a couple of engine hoists I got the chassis flipped upside down and back on my dollies. This will make it a lot easier to do the work on the belly that I’m planning.
First will be to prep the outside of the cockpit; remove excess silicone, patch gaps, alcohol wash, mask and scuff.
Then two coats of Lizard Skin sound control on the outside of the cockpit aluminum followed by two coats of heat control on the firewall and tunnel.
Finally I’ll run the hard lines for the fuel and brakes.
After all that then we will get it back right-side up and work toward making a roller!
 

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That had to be a little bit of a job getting that flipped over with care. That should make coating the bottom much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Thanks, Jim.
Yeah, it was way more than a little bit of a job! I was really careful to keep the weight under control. But, for me, it was necessary. Having clear access is key for doing thorough work.
 

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Going the extra mile will pay off. Are you making a full belly pan too?
Hope this is the last time we ever see your car upside down:wink2:

John
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
Lizard Skin applied

I'm really happy with the way this turned out! It was a lot of extra work but it's really gonna pay off on my first road trip!
After filling all the small gaps in the cockpit I masked it off, washed it all down with alcohol and gave it a good scuffing. I applied two coats of Lizard Skin Sound Control and two coats of Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation.
The textured surface is gonna be a real dirt magnet. I'm considering applying a Lizard Skin top coat product to the areas that show.
 

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nice one... am sure it will pay off nicely for you.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Fuel Line Routing - Looking for comment

While I'm waiting for Lizard Skin Top Coat to be delivered I'm looking into the fuel line routing. I want to be sure that they are routed safely, cleanly and out of the way. I'll be using the provided 5/16" and 1/4" hard lines for feed and return respectively.

My build is a little unconventional. It's a Gen 2 Type 65 coupe with the T-bird IRS, a 2015+ Mustang drive line and bunch of custom frame and aluminum mods in the trunk and firewall areas. The fuel tank is a custom unit from RCI with the pickups on top, forward, center of the tank. I'll build a bracket to mount the external fuel pump and filters in the space between the IRS X brace and the fuel tank.

Starting from the front the lines will go straight down the firewall next to the passenger foot box, straight back just outside the 4" main tube, then make the bend upward and run inside the 2" x 3" frame member up to the trunk floor and back just above the upper control arm mounting point.

Yes its upside down on the dollies, And yes, I'm overthinking everything! :)
 

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Looks good to me.. In short you've marked out the same route I took.. inboard and within the line of the main rails to protect from vertical and lateral impacts, also away from the hot bits.. :)
 

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I think it looks good Glenn. One thing I would recommend is to use stainless steel lines. You can get it in all different sizes. You want to get double annealed line. It bends as easy as steel. It flares good too. The reason I'm recommend this is because of the increase in ethanol that is in gasoline. Ethanol tends to cause things to rust and deteriorate. I know for a fact that GM had a problem with there fuel lines due to this. People were getting rust deposits in the top of their injectors. I'm sure other OEMs were getting it too, but I only know first hand about GM. A friend of mine had problems with his Chevy truck.

I used 1/2 OD for fuel supply and 1/4 OD for return. The reason I used such big line for supply is because I thought about running the car on E85 gas and knew I would be using more fuel, so I wanted to have the supply line big enough that I wouldn't ever have a problem.

This is the company Classic Tube

I bought straight lengths, which came in card board tubes.

I bought the line fittings from Summit racing I think.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
Oops. Forgot something!

A smarter guy would have cut these notches in the rear cross member BEFORE he got the frame painted! The Rustoleum gloss black is ready!
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Lizard Skin Topcoat applied

I decided to apply the Lizard Skin Topcoat. It has a semi-gloss finish and a deep black color that should be a good bit easier to keep clean.
Yeah, some areas came out pretty lumpy. But that's not the fault of the product. The first coat of the Lizard Skin Sound Control product went on like that because of my lousy spraying technique. The pressure was a little on the low side and a vent hole in the spray gun was plugged. Later coats went on fine, but the damage was already done.
 

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I think it looks good Glenn. One thing I would recommend is to use stainless steel lines. You can get it in all different sizes. You want to get double annealed line. It bends as easy as steel. It flares good too. The reason I'm recommend this is because of the increase in ethanol that is in gasoline. Ethanol tends to cause things to rust and deteriorate. I know for a fact that GM had a problem with there fuel lines due to this. People were getting rust deposits in the top of their injectors. I'm sure other OEMs were getting it too, but I only know first hand about GM. A friend of mine had problems with his Chevy truck.

I used 1/2 OD for fuel supply and 1/4 OD for return. The reason I used such big line for supply is because I thought about running the car on E85 gas and knew I would be using more fuel, so I wanted to have the supply line big enough that I wouldn't ever have a problem.

This is the company Classic Tube

I bought straight lengths, which came in card board tubes.

I bought the line fittings from Summit racing I think.

Good luck.
Hey Jim.. as ever.. love your work.. :)

Footnote.. 3/8 lines on 98 octane will provide enough flow for up to 600hp at the crank with the usual Bosch 040 style pump.. 1/2 lines will get you to 800hp+ and solve the E85 issue as well... :)

Cheers

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Thanks for the inpiut regarding the fuel lines. I’d definitely be looking at an upgrade if I were planning a power-adder, cams or any other significant mods. But I plan to run a bone stock Coyote, probably 2015 or later. At 435 HP the provided fuel lines should be adequate.
Before running the fuel lines I want to mount the pump and filters, just to be certain that there is enough room for everything. The pump should arrive any day now.
Meanwhile, I had a piece of aluminum cut and bent in the shape of the cardboard dashboard mock up that I did earlier. I applied some shelf paper to protect the surface and trimmed it to fit. More work on this will have to wait till the frame is right side up again.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Fuel Pump and Fuel Filters mounted

I want to mount the fuel pump where the noise won't intrude in the cabin. Hanging it from the passenger floor wouldn't do. But the bit of space in between the fuel tank and the differential seemed like a great spot.
I fabricated the fuel pump mount from a piece of 1/8" x 3" stock. With a little bend it puts the fuel pump near the bottom of the tank. And it's pretty well protected from damage and heat.
I fabricated a mount for the fuel filters from a piece of 1/8" x 1" stock. After a few bends and a gusset it fit the space perfectly. And it's very solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Credit where Credit is Due

I should have an engine pretty soon and figured that it's time to confirm my plans for engine location and the all-important (to me, anyway) shifter location. With a little bit of searching, a little bit of math, and some digging around in SeattleDad's excellent build thread I think I have my answers.

The "Help Me Spend" build thread has become one of my go-to sources for information. Michael, I know that you sold your car a few months ago. But if you are still hanging around here, know that this guy thanks you!

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr-type-65-coupe/470626-help-me-spend-build-thread.html
 

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Discussion Starter #78
It should be a roller soon, so it’s time to buy some shoes for this thing. I settled on Sumitomo HTR Z III tires ... 275/35-18 on 18 x 9’s and 295/30-18 in 18 x 10-1/2’s.
The stack of tires is a tall as the car!
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Starting on the Dash ... Two steps forward, One step back.

I needed a change of pace so I thought I'd get started on the dash. In the interest of making some progress I decided to put off my plans for a fully custom dash. For now I'm using the provided dash with some light modifications.
As many have done, I cut the top of the dash off leaving a 1" lip for the face of the dash to attach to the cross bar. I set a few #10 Rivnuts in the cross bar for attaching the dash face. I set the dash top aside. Later, I'll extend it by adding a front lip using a couple of layers of 1/16" ABS, cover it in vinyl and attach it with some Velcro. This will give easy access behind the dash and allow the entire dash face to be removable.
I enlarged and reshaped the steering column opening for the Russ Thompson steering column mod, drilled for a few extra indicator lights and made a cut out for switches. For the switches I'm using Carling Contura II Soft Touch. It's the same style switch used by my wipers, and I really like the look and feel. The placement of the switches is unconventional. But I like it ... it puts all the controls at the driver's fingertips.
I covered the dash face in a nice flat finish vinyl from a fabric store and started installing the goodies! All went well until I got to the tach and speedo. Yikes! They fall right through the holes! It had been a long time since I read that part of the manual. It took a few minutes for me to discover that I covered the dash before attaching the mounting plate for the Autometer gauges. Ugh! I'm considering workarounds ... I think I'll be able to fix it with a few ABS trim rings.
 

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