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Discussion Starter #41
Thanks for the heads-up guys. I probably would have made the same mistake!

I'm envious of you that are so far down the track ahead of me. But I'm surely enjoying the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Aluminum Mock Up Continues

Here are pics of a few of the things I've been working on.
I really like the way the trunk floor is shaping up. There will be storage cubbies in the rear corners and the rear trunk wall will be removable. The well in the rear will be about 5" deeper than original. The cover over the fuel tank fittings will take some of this space away, but I should be able to drop the tank a bit to minimize that.
I also added a big access panel to the driver's footbox. Working in that area will be a lot easier because I'll be able to get both hands in there!
 

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Glenn,

If I had to do the driver foot box top over again, I would 've put a double hinge on the top bar and made both sides flip up like gullwing doors. Suppose I could still do that, but I'm trying to get done!!!


John
 

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Glenn:

I like the size of your driver's side access panel. I made mine too small ... I can just squeeze one hand in there but it is better than nothing. It was good to be able to shine a flashlight in there and reach in there is I did all the wiring and troubleshooting. I hope I will be able to adjust my brake bias!

It looks like you will have clearance where the body cross that area ... mine was close but I can just get my screws in place (I used rivnuts and I had to cut one screw short to get clearance).

Your trunk looks huge! No excuses now ... you will have to drive your Coupe to Costco for sure!

Keith
Coupe 648
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Thanks guys!
Since I didn't buy my drive train yet the decision of clutch quadrant vs. clutch master cylinder hasn't been made yet. With those big openings I should be able to do either pretty easily even after the footbox is mounted permanently.
I have bigger plans than Costco for that trunk! The reason for all of this mod madness (trunk, doors, under-car exhaust) is road rallies. For several years I've been participating in multi-day, multi-state charity road rallies. The vision is to run this car cross-country in these events. Lots of storage capacity and some creature comforts are a must.
Check out the info in my signature for info about this summer's rally. It's gonna be one heck of an adventure for a great cause! (I hope this gentle plug doesn't run afoul of forum rules.)
 

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I've seen pictures of his Mustang on-course at Talladega, so a Cannonball Run could be in his future.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Waaaaay better than Cannonball run!
Traveling some of America's most interesting roads, historic sites, scenic vistas and challenging tracks. All while in the company of over 100 of the most interesting people you could ever meet and raising money for a worthy cause.
What more could a gear head ask for? Join us!

PS: There's a video of some Talladega laps on my Facebook page. Enjoy!
 

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Waaaaay better than Cannonball run!
Traveling some of America's most interesting roads, historic sites, scenic vistas and challenging tracks. All while in the company of over 100 of the most interesting people you could ever meet and raising money for a worthy cause.
What more could a gear head ask for? Join us!

PS: There's a video of some Talladega laps on my Facebook page. Enjoy!
Sounds like something we should do with a plethora of coupes some time!!

John
 

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Discussion Starter #50
After a few weeks and a few interruptions I finished the mock up of the cockpit aluminum. My changes to the trunk floor, door openings and firewall meant that I had to alter a few original parts and make up a lot of parts from scratch. In the end, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

Attached are a few overview pics.

And here's a wrap-up video ...
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
The next step is permanently mounting the aluminum panels. But first I needed to get the pedal box and differential in place for the LAST time.

I read the instructions three times, but I'm still not sure that I got the clearances between the clevises and pedal at the balance bar correct. At the .020-.025" clearance per the instructions the clevises bind when the balance bar is at it's maximum angle. Perhaps the max angle will never happen when the system is pressurized. I'll have to be sure to check this later.


I used a hoist, a floor jack and a couple of ratchet straps to wrestle the differential into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I was doing final fitment and drilling of the passenger side footbox and double checking my work against the manual. That's when I realized that the manual's instructions are for a floor that is dropped by 2" in the passenger footbox, but my passenger floor is flat.
It looks like a good idea and not too difficult to do. So I guess I'll be bending a little more metal!
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Cleco, drill, silicone, cleco , rivet ... repeat, repeat, repeat ...
 

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Cleco, drill, silicone, cleco , rivet ... repeat, repeat, repeat ...
My wife told me I mumbled that in my sleep for weeks:grin2:

John
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Riveting done!

It's been over a month. Life insisted that other things get my attention.


Since my last update i finished riveting the cockpit aluminum, hung the front suspension, steering and rear suspension to check clearances and sealed up all of the cockpit aluminum.



The front sway bar brackets have to be welded in since the frame didn't have a clear area for bolting it in place. Also, I'm not thrilled with the position and angle of the steering shaft. I have half a mind to move the lower bearing about an inch to the right. It would center the wheel and allow room for a modern steering column. That might be something to do later, after the engine and exhaust placement are done.




I'm really happy with the way the firewall turned out. Nice and neat! It's moved forward quite a bit. With the engine located forward about 2 inches from its normal position there should be plenty of room there. And there's tons of room behind the dash!




The rear outer cockpit walls had to be remade because the striker plate was relocated rearward to make room the the extended door openings.The striker plate is removable, making it pretty easy to lift off the body. Space around the rear wheels is a little tight but should be adequate.



The extra trunk space is going to come in handy for extended road trips and rallies. And the rear trunk wall is removable for easy access to the rear body mounts and the lighting in the tail.


Next up will be applying Lizard Skin sound deadener and ceramic insulation to the outside of the cockpit. I know that it's more usual to apply it to the inside. But keeping the heat and vibration out of the frame in the first place (rather than trying to block it after it is already in the frame) just makes sense to me.
 

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Looks good. I'm having the same problem with other things getting my attention :)

Keep up the great work.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I’ve done probably a dozen dashboard mockups since I got this kit. Now that all of the aluminum is in place I have a pretty clear picture of how the cockpit will feel.
Here’s my latest dash concept in cardboard. It should be neat, clean, easy to make and easy to maintain.
Thoughts?
 

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Make sure you put your steering wheel on and see how well you can read the gauges. If that is of no issue then consider this message to self destruct in 10,9,8,7....

John
 

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Glenn,

I put my removable steering wheel on upside down while driving to see the gauges much better. I wish we had made removable panels for the instruments so we would have almost unlimited access to the wiring. And some kind of light so you can find the switches at night would be nice.


Glen
 

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Can't wait to see it in aluminum.
 
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