Also I remember seeing some posts from a few years ago where the diff cover broke at the mounting flange. They attributed it to the cover being stressed under severe use; rubber front mounts allowed it to move but the rear mount was solid.
I did a lot of prep work this week and man, did it ever pay off today!
First up was finish welding four jacking points that I fabricated using short lengths of 2" square tubing. The front ones are on the bottom of the round tubes at the front of the foot boxes. The others are on the bottom of the 2" square tubes at the rear of the cockpit. Thanks to Glen Sides Sr and Matt Sides for the idea (Sorry, no pictures of these).
Next up was finish welding the rear diff mount. I hoisted the diff into place and secured it with front mounts and supported it with a ratchet strap. Then I bolted everything up and tacked the mount to the frame. I pulled the diff out, and my friend finish welded the mount to the frame and added some serious gussets. That baby ain't going anywhere! (First pic).
The next item is something that I've had in mind for a long time. The roll cage tube that is just above the door is a real head banger! After some discussion I decided to do something about it. I settled on an X frame design. The front ends of the tubes do not extend to the corners of the front hoop, so it's probably not legal for any sanctioned racing. But I think it's perfectly fine for the way I'll use the car. This makes a HUGE difference in space for my head!
Yeah, I'm pretty happy with it! (Third pic)
Finally, with the help of another friend and his box truck we transported the frame to the paint shop, it's new home for a while! (Fourth pic)
Just have to ask, is the black fastback a 69 or a 70. There is just enough to tell it is one of those 2 years but not enough to tell which. I had a 70 convertible I had restored myself to MCA specs. Did pretty good at national and grand national shows but sold it to have the funds for the Daytona.
Good eye! I didn't look it over very closely. but I think they said it was a '70. It's at GCR's Auto Collision in Dalmatia PA. The shop came highly recommended. They have a number of Mustangs in the shop. One looks like its going to need new everything except the VIN tag! And there was a very cool early Corvette, too.
I did a little bench work while waiting for the frame to be done at the paint shop. I closed up and painted the diff, partially assembled the pedal box and fit up all four corners of the suspension (It's that pile of stuff on the bench).
I started mocking up the chassis. Since I made a lot of changes in the frame I'm sure that I will need to make lots of changes in the aluminum as well.
The first step was to install the front suspension, the pedal box, and the steering. As others have mentioned, I had to do a little shimming to get the pedal box's vertical support to bolt down to the 3/4" tubes properly.
Then I installed the aluminum for the firewall, foot boxes and the floors. I also dropped in the heat/ac box. I'm using the driver foot box piece from the 2BKing sheet metal buy (a few years ago) that should give enough room for the Coyote heads between the foot boxes.
I'm going to need fabricate a few pieces for the firewall, both foot boxes and both floors. All of this looks to be manageable.
The aluminum in the trunk will need a lot of changes too. More later!
I didn't get much done this week because I had surgery for carpal tunnel syndrome and a trigger finger. Things are healing up so well that I decided to get back in the garage for a bit.
I made a start on the changes to the aluminum in the cockpit. I trimmed the floor piece so it could be riveted to the frame and did a cardboard template for the new pieces at the outside corner.
Don't forget that the corner piece you are mocking up with cardboard goes in AFTER the body is installed. I screwed that up on mine. I installed it along with all of my other cockpit aluminum and wondered why it didn't quite fit. I rammed it into place with some modification and did not realize until later that this piece is meant to go over the fiberglass of the body. Since mine was thoroughly siliconed and riveted I just left my mistake but I still need to figure out how to weatherproof that corner (as any water kicked up by the rear wheel will want to track down the fiberglass wheel well and into the cockpit.
Just a heads up... maybe you already have this figured out!
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