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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
It's LEGAL!!! PA inspection done!

Since the trip to the inspection station was the first time the car was on the road (beyond first gear) I talked my mechanic friend into following me as I drove it to his shop. Good thing! The upper rad hose connection came apart en route. Fixed and burped. It’s all good now.

I interrupted the ten mile drive home to let it cool down and top off the coolant. I guess the engine was not quite done burping!

I drove very carefully, but it's obvious that this is going to be a lot of fun! It's a beast! I'll be busy for quite a while with shakedown drives and trying to make the interior road trip ready.

Untitled by Team Limer, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
These are my reflections on my first drive. It was just over ten miles driving the coupe back home after it's PA state inspection. This is not a rant or a complaint. I'm just assessing where things stand now and considering what I might do to make my coupe into the road car that I want it to be.

Every time I've heard Dave Smith talk about the coupe kit he describes it as "race car". Now I get it! The car makes all the right sounds, has all the right smells and demands your undivided attention. The body seems to pick up, contain and amplify all the sounds, smells, vibrations and heat the car makes.

With nothing but a bit of fiberglass between me and the rear wheel and with the doors not sealed, the tire noise dominates the cockpit. I intentionally went cheap on my first set of tires because at the time I wasn't certain that this project would ever see the road. These Sumitomos are noisy.

The exhaust sounds great from the outside of the car. Inside is another matter. I routed the pipes under the car to get the exhaust sound behind me. I suppose it's quieter than side pipes would be, but short chambered mufflers are all there's room for at the back of the car. I think the body and the rear glass might be reflecting the sound inward.

There doesn't seem to be a lot of drive line noise except when the Torsen differential engages but that shouldn't be a problem on the highway.

After about 10 miles I could definitely feel the engine compartment heat blowing through the gap between the top of the firewall and the body. The transmission tunnel also got a little warm.

The power from the Coyote comes in very smoothly and predictably. The stage 2 clutch is a little aggressive but manageable. I'm used to the notchy shifter in my Mustang so I feel right at home with the TKO-600. The electric power assisted steering can be dialed from nothing all the way to parking-with-your-pinky.

It's gonna take some work to make this into a road trip car. There are gaps to close, seams to seal and sound deadening to be applied. I'm going to go over the exhaust system again to check for leaks, contact with the frame and to see if there might be space somewhere for resonators. Carpet and upholstery are off in the future somewhere.

I love this beast! With probably over 400 hp to the wheel in a 2600 pound car and 47/53 weight distribution it's a blast to drive. I just need to take some of the edge off it to get it where I want it to be.
 

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Glenn,

That's great congrats! Bedliner the tub before you final mount it if that's still an option and once you seal it it will be much better. Headliner is a must with padding preferably. Don't forget the foam on the edge of the dash bar to seal against the body. Like you said it will always be a race car, but a lot of fun at that.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #224 · (Edited)
Life got in the way quite a bit in the last couple of weeks. But I managed to get in some garage time.

First up was to deal with the cooling system. The coolant got pretty diluted from me having to add so much water when the radiator hose came off, so I drained the system and refilled with the Ford yellow coolant. It's the stuff they recommend for the Coyote now and is supposed to be compatible with any residual Ford orange stuff that might be left in the system.

I sealed up all of the gaps between the body and the chassis at the firewall, hatch and wheel wells. The gaps were small enough that I could close them up with strips cut from a sheet of Dynamat Extreme. I would recommend this technique. It worked out very nicely. The butyl rubber sticks well, like s*** to a blanket as they say around here, and the aluminum facing hides the sticky side. I expect that it will stand up to the heat at the firewall just fine. It's not pretty, but really not visible unless you're under the car.

I also applied a couple of coats of Lizard Skin Sound Control inside the wheel wells hoping that it might reduce the road noise and the reverberation of the body panels.

I took a little drive to check my work and to visit with The Travelling Builder at his new shop. I can always count on Mark for a few words of encouragement and advice! The cooling system is behaving just fine, so no worries there. The changes made a big difference in the road noise and heat intrusion in the cockpit. But the exhaust noise, even with the undercar exhaust, is still literally deafening. I'm going to look into pipe wraps and muffler wraps, but quality hearing protection is definitely a must!

There are more than a few things on the punch list. Investigate MIL light on. Wiring and connectors for the overhead panel. New connectors for the wiper motors to replace the Molex connectors. Dashboard top panel and end panels.

More later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
I'm still working the punch list. But it's really nice to wrap up a few tasks and take it out for a test drive ... whether or not its needed. I'm getting more comfortable and confident in the car, and that feels real good!

Note to self: NEVER, EVER put anything but premium fuel in the tank! The ECM goes bonkers trying to keep it running. Then it just gives up!

Visiting a buddy:


The Team Limer Mustang meets The Team Limer Daytona Special:
 

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
I find myself continuing to assess and develop the car. My goal is to make it a scary fast road trip car. I have a couple of massive trips lined up this year and I want this to be my ride for them.

I have almost 400 miles on the car now, including a few trips over 50 miles and one of 100 miles. The scary fast part is certainly taken care of! I did a couple of strong second/third gear pulls and had to back out before 5000 rpm. And it corners like nothing I've ever driven. I can't wait to get this thing on a track!

As for the road trip part I'm continuing my efforts to take the edge off the NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness).

First off, hearing protection will be necessary ... I just see no way around it. I have tinnitus and a bit of hearing loss, so I need to preserve what hearing I have left. My shop hearing protection did a good job of killing almost all sound, but I was oblivious to sounds that I need to hear to drive safely, e.g. the sound of a vehicle coming along side and the sound of a siren. I tried out a borrowed set of Bose A20 headphones. These are noise cancelling headphones designed for aviators and can be used with a control box for connection to a co-pilot and the plane's onboard systems. They are awesome! I can hear what I need to hear but at $1,000 a pop think I'll keep looking. I have pair of consumer grade noise cancelling headphones on order. This will be an interesting comparison!

The 100 mile cruise showed that heat is also a problem. No surprise here! You might know that I did a lot of heat shielding with Lizard Skin, reflective film and heat barriers. It seems to have helped quite a bit. For example, while the exhaust manifold is about 1-1/2" from the footbox, it only gets (really) warm to the touch. Other hot spots are the transmission tunnel and the floor near the undercar exhaust pipes. I'd planned to use DynaDeck for my flooring instead of carpet. I tested a piece of it on the inner side of the footbox and it worked well.

FYI, DynaDeck is a Dynamat product. It is a 3/8" thick blanket of closed cell foam with a 1/8" thick surface of wrinkle-finish vinyl. It should help a lot with heat and noise and it's pretty easy to work with, but it doesn't like to bend sharply.

I still have a lot to do to prep for the road trips ... the punch list keeps growing! But I think I'll get there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
685 miles on the odometer and making good progress. This thing is a blast to drive! Once it's all sealed up the NVH should be lots better. I can feel and hear the difference already.
I fabricated an eBrake boot, applied some more sound deadening and heat blocking materials and installed weatherstrip in the hatch and the doors. I still have some work to do adjusting the doors and getting the weatherstrip to seal but it's getting lots better.
I delivered it to the shop of The Travelling Builder today for a short punch list of items, the kind of thing that would take me forever and that Mark can knock out in short order!
More later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
My wife and I had a very enjoyable respite from the build that took us to Minnesota to reunite with our daughter and her family. Goodness, how our grandkids have grown and matured since our last visit at Christmas 2019. It'd been far too long!

I had arranged for a tuning session at Revolution Automotive in Rosedale MD. I'd been told that Adam Browne was one of the good guys, and he exceeded expectations! As a builder I find it invaluable to have another pair of experienced eyes examining my work.

The engine is a bone stock Gen 2 Coyote from a 2015 Mustang. I'm using the Coyote Control Pack, Specter intake parts with a 4x9 K&N filter, and Sanderson exhaust manifolds for a Coyote in an F-150 modified to fit by The Travelling Builder. It put down 383 hp wheel at 6500 with a nice flat torque curve 363 max from 4500 to 5500. More than enough to keep me entertained for a while!

Revolution Automotive tuning session
 
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Discussion Starter · #231 · (Edited)
Last weekend I took the coupe to two events that I look forward to every year; the CJ Pony Parts Pony Trails Cruise and the Carlisle Ford Nationals. I've been doing these events with my Legend Lime Mustang for over ten years, but with the coupe its a whole different experience! At Carlisle lots of folks walked right by the pristine GT-40 kit car next to me but stopped dead in their track at the Daytona!

Hanging with my Mustang friends at Pony Trails


Video from CJ Pony Parts

Meanwhile I'm busy putting miles on the coupe and getting things sorted out. I'm up tp 1300 miles now. Andi it seems that for every item I take off the punch list I add another. But it keeps getting better and better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #232 ·
As the song goes, "You can't always get what you want!"

On the way home from the Carlisle Ford Nationals last weekend I filled the tank at a gas stop just a few miles from home. I immediately smelled fuel, which was nothing new. But shortly after parking it in my garage I noticed that it was pushing fuel out the vent hose and onto the garage floor. There was a pretty fair size puddle and it was still coming. Something had to be done! When I removed the fuel fill cap a good bit of pressure was relieved and the fuel stopped flowing. After doing some research and talking it over with some friends I realized the error I'd made and realized I'd have to compromise something I'd worked hard for to get the tank for vent properly and safely.

Back story: My vision from the start of this build is to turn this race car into a road worthy GT car. And one of the mods was to add as much trunk space as possible. To that end I dropped the trunk floor about six inches and replaced the Mustang fuel tank with a custom tank from RCI. When I installed the tank I realized that the hose connections stood above my beautiful flat trunk floor. "No problem", said I. I'll just tilt the tank a little. DUMB IDEA. When the tank would be full it would have a large bubble of trapped air (about a gallon and a half) and the tank vent would be under a couple of inches of fuel!

So it seems that after I filled the tank the trapped air expanded and pushed fuel out the vent hose. It would have to push that gallon and a half of fuel out before the vent would be able to purge the air. Bad News!

It took a couple of days, but I just finished leveling the tank, rerouting the vent hose and enclosing the hose connection. I miss my beautiful flat floor. But I won't miss the fire hazard, the fuel smell and the puddle on the garage floor!

Vent Hose:


Fuel Hoses


Covering it all up. It would have been so much neater and easier in fiberglass!.
 

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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
I finally got around to fitting up the radiator duct. I've been driving around without it, so the fan has been blowing hot air at the ECM and the air intake. That can't be good.
The radiator shroud is very solid so I decided to hang the front of the duct from the shroud with a couple brackets and support the back side of it to the frame with some tabs. Because I had to trim a lot of material to clear the lower radiator hose I added a gusset to the back side to stiffen it up.



 

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As the song goes, "You can't always get what you want!"

On the way home from the Carlisle Ford Nationals last weekend I filled the tank at a gas stop just a few miles from home. I immediately smelled fuel, which was nothing new. But shortly after parking it in my garage I noticed that it was pushing fuel out the vent hose and onto the garage floor. There was a pretty fair size puddle and it was still coming. Something had to be done! When I removed the fuel fill cap a good bit of pressure was relieved and the fuel stopped flowing. After doing some research and talking it over with some friends I realized the error I'd made and realized I'd have to compromise something I'd worked hard for to get the tank for vent properly and safely.

Back story: My vision from the start of this build is to turn this race car into a road worthy GT car. And one of the mods was to add as much trunk space as possible. To that end I dropped the trunk floor about six inches and replaced the Mustang fuel tank with a custom tank from RCI. When I installed the tank I realized that the hose connections stood above my beautiful flat trunk floor. "No problem", said I. I'll just tilt the tank a little. DUMB IDEA. When the tank would be full it would have a large bubble of trapped air (about a gallon and a half) and the tank vent would be under a couple of inches of fuel!

So it seems that after I filled the tank the trapped air expanded and pushed fuel out the vent hose. It would have to push that gallon and a half of fuel out before the vent would be able to purge the air. Bad News!

It took a couple of days, but I just finished leveling the tank, rerouting the vent hose and enclosing the hose connection. I miss my beautiful flat floor. But I won't miss the fire hazard, the fuel smell and the puddle on the garage floor!

Vent Hose:


Fuel Hoses


Covering it all up. It would have been so much neater and easier in fiberglass!.
Flat floors are over rated. even with carpet the accell factor makes stuff move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
I pulled the windshield out for easy access behind the dash. There are a few chores there that I need to get to.

The first of these is to finish off the dashboard. It's time to close it up and give it a more finished appearance. The end pieces I fashioned from aluminum. The base plate (mounts to the fiberglass at the base of the windshield) is also made of aluminum and holds the defroster outlets. Finally the dash pad covers the top of the opening and is made from a sheet of ABS plastic. I used some leftover Dynaliner for padding and covered everything with for some vinyl.

As usual, if I had it to do over again (and I just might) I would do a few things differently. Chief among those is to use lighter materials. The ABS is 1/8" thick, but 1/16" would be a lot more flexible.

The base plate is held in place with some socket head screws threaded into RivNuts. There's will be enough room to get an Allen wrench in there if necessary.


The dash pad attaches to the base plate and the top of the dashboard face with some Velcro.


The view from the driver's seat. Yeah, the 1/8" ABS resists the slight bending needed to lay down.
 
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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
Before buttoning up the dash and reinstalling the windshield I tried to deal with the vibrating blower motor. It sounds like it’s going to tear itself apart at anything other than low speed.
I have a replacement blower assembly on hand. But removing the evaporator will require pulling the AC and heater hoses off it. That’s not a project that I’m going to tear into right now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
I'm continuing to put miles on the car and working on noise and heat issues. I have about 1650 miles on it now and I'm enjoying it a lot!

I'm using DynaDeck for flooring, and it does such a great job with heat that I decided to use it on the sides of the transmission tunnel, too. Its a DynaMat product made up of three layers; closed cell foam, mass loaded vinyl and a glossy textured surface. It's waterproof and weather resistant. It does not mold to shape easily, so a lot of trimming, fitting and gluing is needed. I'm using black silicone caulk to seal the seams for a pretty nice finished look.

I had a chance to get the car up on a friend's lift to apply some heat shielding material along the path of the exhaust pipes in the tunnel. While it was up we spotted a few things that might have developed into problems ... hoses lightly rubbing on the frame and a header tube just touching a motor mount. Fixed!

I'm still tweaking the door adjustments. I want to get a good seal with the weather stripping, align the window frame flush to the body and have the latch function easily. This still needs work.

I took a couple of weeks away from the build for a nice road trip in my Mustang that included two of my favorite things; visiting family and participating in a charity road rally. I had great time with my daughter's family in Duluth. The grandkids are great and we enjoyed some of the Lake Superior environs together. The road rally was the 2021 Rally North America Great Lakes Rally ... 85 cars on a four day scavenger hunt through Wisconsin and Michigan with quarter mile runs at Rock Falls Raceway and hot laps on Gingerman Raceway. Great fun! and we raise a huge pile of donations for the beneficiary, Race To Erase MS. Check us out at www.rallynorthamerica.com

I used the road trip to get some long term, real world experience with the aviation grade noise cancelling headsets that I will also use in the Daytona. Two Lightspeed Zulu 3 headsets with a Sigtronics SPO-22N Intercom box. These things are amazing! Outstanding hearing protection that let's you hear everything that you need to hear, communicate clearly with your partner, and Bluetooth to your phone for navigation, music and hands-free calls. This set up put a big dent in the piggy bank, but it's worth every penny. Be aware that some states have prohibitions regarding headset use in a vehicle.

I had the AC system evacuated. I won't be using it with the blower motor behaving as it is. And I'll need to remove the evaporator from the car to do the repair. I'm not looking forward to that chore!

Back to work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
A good friend helped me tell the story of this build.
 

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my delivery was August 14, converted to RHD then started my build from October.. :) my Coupe was post divorce therapy, and a distraction from not being able to see my kids every day.. your story is inspiring..
 
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Great video Glenn,

Glad to hear your health woes are behind you now. Good to see that the car was a distraction/motovation for you.

John
 
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