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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
Not much left I need to do before I put the body on my build. However, before I do I hope to get my brakes working a bit better. The car comes to a casual stop fine but if I get on the brakes hard I can't lock them up.
I've spent a lot of time bleeding the system and the pedal feels pretty stiff. I thought maybe the bias bar was inhibiting my ability to bleed both systems equally but that does't seem to be the issue either. I've gone through several threads on the forum and check most of the usual suspects except removing the calipers to check the pads which is my next step. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I am running the wilwood pedal box and MCs that come with the complete kit and the GT complete kit calipers as well.
 

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Your next step is very aggressive brake pads, the next step after the is upgrading the brake system.
 

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I will say that the proper bedding process makes a big difference in brake feel. Initially, I could stand on the brakes and not get it to lock up. after bedding, it's much better adn will lock.
 

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I suggest you read more threads and, 1- chose better pads as in Hawk or EBC, 2- understand better how to adjust the front to rear brake bias.
 

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Look to HAWK pads or other 3rd party street performance pads. First legal street ride with FFR supplied pads scared the s**t out of me.
BTW don't get track oriented pads as they will not heat up enough to become effective.
 
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I have great results with the HAWK HP+ and HP Plus pads. They do need some heat in them to work good, they are not great when cold. Maybe the HAWK 5.0 pads if you are only street driving?

Yes, a properly set up system should put you in the belts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the responses guys. I think I'm going to keep tinkering a bit before I buy new pads. I may eventually get them anyway but I've got to believe even the worst pads out there should be able to stop this <2KLB vehicle (without the body) much better than what I'm getting right now.
I'll let you know what/if I find.
 

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Did you clean the rotors before installing them? I have manual brakes, and though the pedal pressure is more, they will lock up the tires
 

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Warsaw Jim: I've been trying to get great brakes on my mk3.1 2009 build for a decade. Checkout the thread
Brake Fluid Pressure Wilwood mk3.1
to see if any of the info there helps. Many sources quote a needed 1200 psi pressure at the bleeder screws. I purchased a SSBC caliper pressure gauge years ago. With all the adjustments I've tried I could not get above 900 front and 800 rear. I'm guessing my solution will be to swap the single caliper in the rear (F5 Kit provided) to a dual caliper in the rear.

Please post any success you get. I'm still interested.
 

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I had the same experience but, like others above, they improved with a few more miles bedding in. I think some of my experience was also all about forgetting how much more force is required with manual brakes.
 

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Hi guys,
Not much left I need to do before I put the body on my build. However, before I do I hope to get my brakes working a bit better. The car comes to a casual stop fine but if I get on the brakes hard I can't lock them up.
I've spent a lot of time bleeding the system and the pedal feels pretty stiff. I thought maybe the bias bar was inhibiting my ability to bleed both systems equally but that does't seem to be the issue either. I've gone through several threads on the forum and check most of the usual suspects except removing the calipers to check the pads which is my next step. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I am running the wilwood pedal box and MCs that come with the complete kit and the GT complete kit calipers as well.
I completely agree - same issue. Can’t believe the Wilwood kit and brakes are SO disappointing… I will follow your posts and hope you come up with something that doesn’t involve spending too much more. The bleeding and bedding in helps a bit, but it’s impossible to ‘lock up’ the wheels…
Have you asked the tech support guys at FFR? (I have not, but should!)
 

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At least for me, the biggest improvement was seen after bedding the brakes properly. You need to heat them up enough to melt some of the pad material onto the rotor. It’s the friction between the pad material that stops the car, not the friction between the metal of the rotor and the pad. I’m able to lock them up using stock calipers and pads. If you have a firm brake pedal feel then additional bleeding probably won’t help much. A spongy or fading pedal needs more bleeding
 

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I see posts like the above bragging about great brakes. Maybe these were newer builds. I'm guessing Factory Five must have wised up somewhere along the line with the brake issue partly caused by the difference in front/rear weight as modified their default parts list on new kits. I purchased my 3.1 kit in 2009 and it came with the mismatch of brake parts I've complained about for 10 years. I know they were focused on having kits built on Mustang parts, but surely they knew the problems caused by using these parts in the 3.1 kits. If I had known about the FFCars.com community and had did a lot more research I would have avoided several issues I've encountered. I just never thought that braking on a 2300# vehicle would ever be anything but outstanding.
 

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Before I answer, I will always say to build vs buying already built. If you do want to buy a competed kit, then build one first. Then you will know what to look for. With that said, my MKII Cobra was built by North Racecars and is dialed in. I really should call Richard and let me know that his build is still on the road. I was wondering why he installed the Wilwood brake adjuster. Now it is making sense. Since the car brakes correctly, I have not touched bias dial. My Hot Rod that was built in 2017, has the Wilwood front brakes and the IRS brake kit from FFR. So far, I have not had any issues with the braking. I guess that I have just been lucky.
 
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