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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I asked my 77 year old dad over to help me with installing and bleeding my brakes yesterday. PRICELESS. Really enjoyed having his company and he loves my roadster as well. We had a great time, even if I had some issues.
Anyways.......
Specs: mk4 base kit, '95 Mustang GT in front and IRS w/ '92 Lincoln disc's in the rear. All rebuilt calipers and new rotors from Autozone. Also reman'd booster. M/C is original '95 Mustang GT.
Got the Hawk pads installed after pulling the IRS spindles off to install the FFR "spacer / halfshaft" fix (grumble, not happy, grumble, FFR needs to step up to the correct length half-shafts, grumble grumble). :evil:
After we got the pads installed and everything back together, we began bleeding the brakes, starting at the PS rear. Took awhile to get any fluid, but eventually started, after many many pedal pumps. After the bubbles stopped, refilled and started on the DS rear. Kept getting bubbles and more bubbles. We actually drained the reservoir (I don't know if that introduced air into the system). Refilled and did it a few more times (still had a few bubbles), but moved to the front anyway after frustration. Bled the fronts and similar experience. More bubbles, just couldn't get rid of them and the pedal never got firm. Went through 1 1/2 large bottles of brake fluid and messed with them for a couple hours before it got dark and we gave up.

So frustrated with it, I didn't mess with it today. Does this sound like a bad M/C?

Any suggestions? Someone suggested trying to gravity bleed them. How is that done?
 

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...We actually drained the reservoir (I don't know if that introduced air into the system)...
It did, and that's your problem. There is now air in the MC. You'll need to bench-bleed it. Next time, take extra care to make sure that you keep fluid in the reservior and it should go fine.

Tim
 

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Agreed; run dry and you're back to square 1 which means bleeding the master cylinder again.

After doing the master I always gravity bleed and don't have to go through the endless "pump, pump, pump...OK, hold it...do it again..." drill. Simply fill the system, get something to catch fluid under each wheel then open (I actually completely remove) all 4 bleeders and remove the cap from the reservior. Top off as needed until you have a good steady flow of fluid from each caliper then close the bleeders. After doing this one round of pump & hold pressure bleeding to assure that you have a clean stream of fluid should be all you need.

Good luck,
Jeff
 

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Sorry you're have troubles Mark, but Paul too advised you to gravity bleed the system. I'm not sure it necessary to bench bleed the MC again. Try jacking the frame to get the MC as level as possible, then try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was afraid of that, I think we did a lot of work, then sucked some air from the reservoir, and took a huge step backwards.
I'm going to try gravity bleeding them tonite. How long does this take for the first brake? I know this is a slower process, can it be done in an hour or so for the first one? (just trying to allocate time so I'm not interrupted).
I can bleed them without the engine running, correct? (they are boosted brakes)

btw, watched a couple Youtube videos that seemed helpful, also found these to better understand how the booster works.



 

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None of those methods worked for me. My son brought over his Mighty Vac and we sucked the air out of each caliper. I'm not sure why the pump and bleed didn't work, but the the Mighty Vac finally got all the air out. I also had the speed bleeders installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm 99% sure I have the calipers installed correctly (bleeder up), I checked once before, but I'll double check, just in case.
 

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Not up but sideways...


The correct way
 

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I'm going to try gravity bleeding them tonite. How long does this take for the first brake?
Open them all and once all four are flowing (should only take a couple of minutes) give it 5 minutes or so.

I can bleed them without the engine running, correct? (they are boosted brakes).
Yes.

I almost mentioned the possibility of swapped calipers earlier; as P Wyman shows, be certain that the bleeder points rearward, not up.

Jeff
 

· FFCobra Craftsman
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I like the gravity bleeding too. When doing all four I usually fill the reservoir twice just cause i have no idea how much the total system holds. But I figure if there is a bubble right at the MC it has quite a way to travel to get to one of the rear cailpers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Checked the bleeders first, they all look correct. Every one of them is above the banjo bolts.

I tried the gravity bleeding and I think I got it this time. Made sure the reservoirs never went below halfway :001_rolleyes:. No bubbles now and the peddle feels firm.

Thanks guys! I think that did it.
 

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If I'm reading your first post correctly you are using a M/C from your donor??? If not disregard the rest of this. If you are using an old master you could have problems with it even if it was working perfectly before. Quite frequently when bleeding the system you will clean the bores out and cause the cups to start bypassing fluid. Just a word to the wise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dave, Please tell me more. Almost every mechanical part on the build has been replaced with a remanufactured / rebuilt / new one. The only original items from the donor are the front spindles / hubs, the pedal box, and this M/C. I want to minimize my problem parts. I questioned using this original donor part, now I'm second guessing it again, especially with your comments.

Please elaborate. I think I'm going to replace it now.
 
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