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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still having problems bleeding my brakes, I hav noticed that if you pump the pedal until it is solid and release the pedal you can hear fluid shooting back into the MC. Do I have air in the MC? Still air in the lines? only shooting fluid into the larger container i.e. front brakes. Help Please....
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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You might try to remove the calliper, place a spacer in between the brak pads ( to simulate the rotor and keep pads from moving ) then raise and tilt the calliper until the bleed port is absolutely at the highest point and bleed from that position. It was the only way I could get air out of the system and I even tried the vacuum method first. Hope this helps.
 

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Are you using a/the proportioning valve? they are designed to keep the fluid from jetting back into the MC and keep 2lbs pressure in disc lines and 10lbs in drum lines.

Also, did you prime the MC before installing? Very important.

Are you bleeding starting with the wheel that is the farthest from the MC (rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver)?

Finally, are you closing the bleedvalve BEFORE they pressure drops? If you're not, it will suck air back into the line. Close it just before the fluid/fluid air mixture stops coming out.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Tim's advice is awesome, too. Hopefully you'll find the answer in here somewhere
 

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aka MTD R/T
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I could not get my rear brakes to work until I properly bled the master cylinder (MC).

Here's what I did on a stock Mustang power brake system:

Raise the rear of the Roadster so that the MC is close to horizontal. Then, attach hoses to the brake lines going to the distribution block and loop them back up to the MC reservoir. Keep the ends of the hoses submerged in brake fluid. Pump the pedal until the lines are clear of air bubbles. Reconnect the back (front brake) line to the distribution block. Give the pedal a few more pumps to make sure the front (rear brake) cylinder is bled of air. Reconnect the front (rear brake) line to the distribution block. Perform a normal system bleed at the wheels.

It got a little messy while reconnecting the brake lines, but if you wipe up the fluid immediately there won't be any damage.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Guy at work told me of what his uncle had to bleed brakes. Made himself a reservoir with some threaded pipe, adapted down to a small tubing end. He hooked up the clear tubing at each of the ports at the master cylinder on each brake line run, one at a time. He filled the piece of pipe that was hung above the mastercylinder area with brake fluid, then opened the bleeder for that line. He said since there was no pumping involved, there was no air bubbles in the lines. Also because the suspended pipe was above it, it created head pressure and pushed the fluid out easily, with no air pockets, with a rock solid pedal. He said it worked perfectly; and he didn't need to have the kids around to pump the brake pedal. I'm gonna try it. Glen
 

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Can you use the Griot bleeder to bench bleed the MC? How does that work?
 

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