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Hi Al,

I had a similar problem,the halo or roll cage was so close to the body that it would touch with any minor movement and did not allow to center the body in the front cowl section. when the hood was installed the left tire was outside the wheel well and the right tire was inside the wheel well if you look at the door post pictures the body was touching the post on the left and had a big gap on the right. In order to align the body to the hood and doors I cut the halo and installed and centered the body, with the body on then I tacked the roll cage in its proper place and weld it back on.I was able to raise and center the body in the front cowl area allowing the hood and doors to fit properly
 

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I used a 6" cutting disk,but first I leveled the frame on blocks and braced the cowl cross member to the rear cross bar of the roll cage to keep the frame from shifting when I cut the halo. Then replaced it with new pieces,used a 1/4" rope around the tubes to keep even spacing against the body. It mainly allowed me to center the hood so the tires are even in the wheel wells.
 

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Al,

I did a lot of fiddling with my GTM body at the same time that MikePMS and Vidal were working on theirs. I've attached a post from another thread that details how I ended up getting good results starting with the same feelings you're having now.

I can't guarantee that this will work for you - and even if it does, remember there will still be a lot of body work to do to make it look good.

Hope this helps:

I think I was pretty successful in aligning the body to the chassis and getting everything to fit well. I focused on aligning the body to the chassis and the hood to the chassis so that my wheels were centered in their body openings. I mounted the body AFTER I set my ride height and completed my wheel alignment. I wrote up my method in an earlier post, and copied it here for you. Don't know if it will help you any or not. You may be too far along with the door fitment to make it useful. Though I don't describe my hood alignment, I followed a similar series of steps.

Even with this approach, I still had to cut the front wheel wells on the main body to get the opening consistent all around, and I had to add glass to the hood along the horizontal gap at the body to get an even gap.

This was my approach to mounting the body:

When I mounted my body to the chassis I focused on alignment of the wheel wells fore-aft and left-right, with the chassis at ride height. I did have to pull a bit to the passengers side, but my hatch still fits perfectly. Big difference for me was attaching the body at the rear of the chassis first ... not up front like the manual says. Let the front float until the rear is spot-on.

Folks told me it would screw up my hatch and doors ... they were wrong. Hatch and doors fit extremely well. I have them all working.

My rear wheels are centered in the wells, measurement from the floor to top of the wheel well arch is identical side-to-side, and my height at the body rear is within 1/8" side to side. Wheels protrude equal amounts on each side of the body.


  1. Set ride height.
  2. When setting the height, after each change at any corner, jump up and down on the frame a few times at different locations, then roll the car backward and forward at least 6 feet to let the car adjust to the new setting. Do this each time you change anything. Yes it takes time, but it also takes out any odd stress in the system that the change may have put into it.
  3. Make certain wheels are aligned, especially rear wheels are aligned for camber and toe (or damn close). If you are going to use the wheels to orient the body, you want them in their final position.
  4. Make certain the car is sitting on the ground.
  5. Drill two 1/4" holes vertically through the rear-most chassis member - the one that the angle iron will sit on. I used a piece of 1" angle 11" long to affix the rear body to the chassis. I actually ground down the welds on top of that piece so the angle iron would sit flat. The holes should be about 1 1/2" in from either end, and close to the front-most edge (not the center). When the angle is placed on this piece, want it easy to drill it.
  6. Now put the body on the chassis. Make certain the body wraps under the door areas like it should. Go ahead and push it as far forward as it will go. just for kicks.
  7. Do not rivet anything at this point (DO NOT FOLLOW THE MANUAL).
  8. Get a floor jack and jack up the rear of the body until the wheels look centered on each side. When you're close, measure from the floor to the top edge of each wheel well arch and adjust until the measurements are the same.
  9. When the height is perfect on both sides, and the wheels look centered in their openings, CLAMP the body to the piece of angle iron with some C-clamps through the exhaust openings so the body can't shift up and down.
  10. Remove the jack to make certain it is not influencing the body position.
  11. Now, push the rear end right or left to get the same tire reveal on each wheel. Hold a straightedge vertically along the tire, and measure from the straightedge to the top of the wheel arch on each side. Move the body back and forth until these measurements are identical side-to-side.
  12. Once they are identical, CLAMP the angle iron also to the chassis to fix the back end from moving side-to-side.
  13. At this point, the rear end should be clamped solid.
  14. Repeat every measurement (height of wheel arch to floor, and tire reveal). Once you are convinced that the body is positioned well with respect to the tires, walk away from the car and look at the wheel wells on both sides from a distance (maybe 10 feet). They should look damn good. Now look at the wheels from a distance from the rear of the car. They should look identical on both sides.
  15. If you're not happy, loosen the clamps and re-adjust a bit, then repeat step 14 until all looks good.
  16. Once it looks good, drill and rivet three 3/16" rivets through the body (license plate area) and into the angle iron. Then drill two 1/4" holes up through the angle iron using the holes you already drilled through the chassis as a guide. Lock the angle iron to the chassis using 1 1/2" long 1/4"x20 bolts and washers/locknuts (To make it easier to remove later, rather than drilling out rivets).
  17. Now it's ok to remove all the clamps
  18. Step back and look at how damn good it looks!
  19. Next, I fiddled with the gap between the door sill and body. That can still go up and down. Don't worry about the gap at the door pillar - the body is fixed fore-aft at the rear. I did put the bulb seal on the wiper enclosure and push it into place (or close), just so I had the front of the body at about the right height. I ended up having about 1/8" clearance between the body and the halo bars at the bend. Everywhere else there was more clearance than that. I test fit the halo bar padding and it was fine, so I decided to let the body sit where it wanted to.
  20. Get some shim material (I used these great peel-off wood-fiber shims) and fill the gap at two locations along each door sill. Drill through the body, shim material, and chassis with a 3/16" bit and rivet them all together. Eventually these shims will be replaced with fiberglass or filler.
  21. You can do the same gap-fill-and-rivet along both vertical door pillars as well (I did).
Now, twenty-one steps later, the body is fixed in position, with enough clearance between the body and halo bars to accommodate the halo pad and fabric cover, and the wheel well alignment looks fantastic!
-Michael
 

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I used a 6" cutting disk,but first I leveled the frame on blocks and braced the cowl cross member to the rear cross bar of the roll cage to keep the frame from shifting when I cut the halo. Then replaced it with new pieces,used a 1/4" rope around the tubes to keep even spacing against the body. It mainly allowed me to center the hood so the tires are even in the wheel wells.
Just a picture of the brace and piece of halo replaced
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That looks like what I have to replace. My body is hitting on the drivers side, side halo, which won't let the body move to the passengers side, and in the drivers front corner, where the sun visor would screw into is 3/4 inch to high which won't let the body come down. The passenger side rear halo is to high the roof is sitting on that too. My door frames won't fit in the doors. Im ready to burn this piece of crap. Sorry Al
 

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Is this type of modification an issue on all of the 1st and 2nd generation of kits or just certain kits due to manufacturing tolerances?

Rumrunner thanks for the quality of step by step instructions provided for other members.
 

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I think this error is on only some of the GenII's. I have #369 and mine is fine.
As for your inner door frames not fitting, not sure why. The earlier Gen I's had to have the frame cut for the window clearance, but the frames still fit.
Most of the builders right now with the Gen II's are not having to cut the door frames, but moving the frame slightly to allow clearance.
I would not worry about your door frames and focus on the main body mounting, follow the instructions on the thread and look to see that you are not caught on something or have the body twisted. I thought I had the same halo problem until I took the body off, reinstalled and started from back to front, it all fits nice now. I had to "push" the rear over to the passenger side which does affect the front.

There are no sunvisors, unless you add them.
 

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That looks like what I have to replace. My body is hitting on the drivers side, side halo, which won't let the body move to the passengers side, and in the drivers front corner, where the sun visor would screw into is 3/4 inch to high which won't let the body come down. The passenger side rear halo is to high the roof is sitting on that too. My door frames won't fit in the doors. Im ready to burn this piece of crap. Sorry Al
Al,
Some of our Halos have been worse than others.

I would suggest going step by step through Michael's instructions.

In addition to his step by step I put 3/16" spacers between the halo and the body and then shimmed the door sill gap to insure I had some space between the two.

Here's a thread form the FFR Forum.

Gen II GTM Body to Roll Cage Clearance
 

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You have a Gen1 with a Gen2 body. Could the error be in the body itself instead of the the frame? I haven't seen any references to to Gen1 having halo issues.
The body is likely slightly different, however I know of one Gen1 with the same Halo clearnace issue.

The body is set on the chassis and used to position and tack the halo. No jig, so it would not be difficult to have the halo position vary with each chassis.
 

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add me to this list, and i did say bad words. i'm thinking of shimming the body upwards for clearance. i was planning on cutting the rocker panels off the car under the doorsill, reinforcing it and making cf rocker panels that are separate pieces. (i'd been planning custom rocker panels anyway) i know i might have to cut and remount the door hinges/strikers, but can anyone think of any other issues i'm missing? i'm talking a small amount of shimming on the body to give rollcage clearance.
 
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