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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The manual says to use 12 sheet metal screws to fasten the body to the frame in the hood opening. My parts in "secondary body fasteners" only has 10 oval head screws along with some rubber bumpers. Are these the ones to use? They seem rather short. Anybody have any pictures of how you did it.

Any help is appreciated.

JL
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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1,767 Posts
I didnt use them at all and unless you have a problem keeping the hood in shape in the opening I recommend using some adhesive bulb seal on the hood to fit in the opening. Mike Everson has it,
Steve
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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JL thats what I used. Once everything is aligned where you like. Use the sheet metal screws thru th rubber gromets to give the hood a resting place. Screws will go thru the body into the frame rail with the head of screw going into the center of the grommets. Only the round rubber gromet will contact hood once screws are tightened.
Use 2 on the bottom trunk opening also.
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Anyone have a picture?
 

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I only used two donuts about 4-6" apart near the windshild to set the height of the hood to be even with the body cowl. I trimmed the donuts for a precise fit. Adjsting the front hinge set the alignment for the front of the hood to the body nose. I did not screw the sides of the hood openning down to the frame rails. Actually I had to slightly shim the sides of the engine / fender openning up about 1/4"-3/8" to get the fenders to better fit the countour of the hood. I used foam tape between the body and the frame rails. I adjusted the two lock handle cams such that when down and locked the corners of the hood were even with the body. (I have to slightly push down on the locks and twist to open the hood)(I did make my own cam locks to keep the handles from rotating with vibration)
Bob Mac
FFR3981
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK thanks for the responses. I definitely think I should fasten the body to the frame in this area. I'm having trouble getting the body to stay centered between the front wheels. Even with all the other body hardware tight, I can move the body 1/4" side to side. I don't want the body shaking all over the frame as I cruise around. I'll use the #8 3/4" screws with the donuts for now. If the hood and body line up then I'll just remove the donuts and add the bulb seal.

JL
 

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Premium Member
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6,413 Posts
I used rubber adhesive-backed weather strip on top
of the 3/4 frame rail, then screwed the opening down...Like Bob Mac, I only used two of the donuts nearest the windshield , to help curve the hood , when tight...I also used self-adhesive "D" weather strip from McMaster-Carr around the hood opening, so the heads of the screws do not show, and the hood seals tight.
 

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Make sure you screw the screws in far enough so the head doesn't sit above the rubber grommet, and hits the underside of the hood. I forgot, and after 1 trip around the neighborhood, the screw head had rubbed all the paint off the hood in 4 little spots! Doh!!



 
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