[rlogan]

Anyone have a tried and true order to do this. These are the things to be done that I can think of.

1) Mount rear view mirror
2) Mount windshield
3) Drill front body mounting holes
4) Mount doors
5) Shim lower body to match lower part of doors

What am I forgetting or just tell me about your experience...

BTW: How much of a gap should there be between the cowl and dash hoop? Also, anyone know of a good option othere than the FFR rear view mirror...seems a bit cheesy to me...

Thanks guys,
Ryan

 

[JerryH]

Instead of mounting the mirror. (Not sure I want to use the body mounted rear view mirror, looking for one to mount to tensioner rod) I just measured the spacer provided with mirror and clamped the body to hoop with similar thick spacer. Probably still end up mounting body at the mirror location but thought I try it without first.

I'd do the mirror and windshield first. Doors and side mount bolts kind of go 1 step forward and 2 steps back. I also mounted trunk hinges to frame brackets which sorta flatens the trunk area and possibly the rear body at tops of door. I ovaled the holes out on the frame and hinges both for more adjustment room. Then I still ended up squeezing the hinge in a vise to get the hinge to work with door better. Good luck

 

[rlogan]

I agree Jerry, I don't want a mirror on the dash because they're useless there anyway especially with high back seats. I prefer to rely on some other method of pulling the cowl down. I'll try clamping it for now...

 

[CRZN 427]

rlogan,
I was told, by the FFR Tech I spoke with, that the clearance between the 3/4" hoop at the dash and the body was 1/8". He said that is what is achieved when the FFR supplied material is placed on the hoop and the body sits on it.

When you make the slots in the fiberglass for the windshield support posts there has to be some clearance between the edge of the fiberglass and the support posts, on the inside, to prevent stressing the four screws that mount the windshield frame to the support posts when you tighten the bolts that mount the support posts to the chassis.

 

[rlogan]

CRZN427,
That's interesting! If that's the case they need to redesign their dash hoop. Mine sits a bit higher than that and it's not going any lower because it sits on the two outside aluminum pieces and the firewall. Has anyone trimmed the firewall?

BTW: Anyone have good pictures of their dash hoop with body on but no dash...?

 

[CRZN 427]

rlogan,

I haven't put my car (MK-II) together as yet.

I have the body sitting on the chassis. I have the windshield and doors (no latches) in place to allow me to make the few tops I commited to do before finishing my car.

At the dash I have a C-Clamp on both sides that holds the body to the dash hoop. I have a piece of 1/8" neoprene rubber in the gap between the hoop and the body to provide the gap that the FFR Tech told me to set.

I didn't have to do anything extradornary to get the body down to the dash hoop.

 

[Lancair IV]

rlogan,

How does your body fit the dash hoop in a fore-aft direction? Mine hits and their is no way that I can get the dash between the hoop and the body.

 

[Roger]

I'm building 3623 and the dash hoop had to be moved forward at the center to get a space between the body and hoop.

The hinges are very adjustable although I have spent six or so hours using West Systems to make a very clean gap line between the doors and body.

Roger

 

[rlogan]

Originally posted by Lancair IV:
rlogan,

How does your body fit the dash hoop in a fore-aft direction? Mine hits and their is no way that I can get the dash between the hoop and the body.

It fits okay in that direction...just not in the vertical direction...? I'll keep playing with it...