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Building 33 HR #432
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I know there is a very extensive thread about how to get the body straight on the frame but I cant find it. It is the one with the plumb bobs and the long piece of steel. I think it is Dr Ruth's post. Can somebody post a link. I am trying to mount the body and want to get it right the first time.

Also. I have seen many posts about having to grind material off the passengers side of the firewall to get the body to fit. I have my body in place and it looks good to me. Body to frame measurements are the same on both sides at the firewall. Firewall to body gaps inside look the same. What am I looking for regarding the right side issue? I have kit # 432 so maybe they fixed the problem? I can post pictures later if needed.
 

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431

I know there is a very extensive thread about how to get the body straight on the frame but I cant find it.
. I have seen many posts about having to grind material off the passengers side of the firewall to get the body to fit. I have my body in place and it looks good to me. Body to frame measurements are the same on both sides at the firewall. Firewall to body gaps inside look the same. What am I looking for regarding the right side issue? I have kit # 432 so maybe they fixed the problem? I can post pictures later if needed.
I have 431 and nothing has changed on body fitment. They would have to change the body mold and I don't see them investing in that any time soon.
The TOP of the PS firewall needs shaved to lower that side of the body.

If you take several measurements there is something really off in the cowl and front door post area on the pass side.
DB
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Something else to consider is the side to side leveling of the body. In my case, the body was 3/16" low on the passenger side. When leveled, the firewall didn't need to be trimmed.

Some might comment that in raising the body on the passenger side, you might expose some of the lower frame rail just below the door. However, it's only about 1/8" and nobody will ever see it. I'd rather have the body level.

In my case, I checked level on the rear deck and the cowl.
 

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datum point

Something else to consider is the side to side leveling of the body. In my case, the body was 3/16" low on the passenger side. When leveled, the firewall didn't need to be trimmed.

Some might comment that in raising the body on the passenger side, you might expose some of the lower frame rail just below the door. However, it's only about 1/8" and nobody will ever see it. I'd rather have the body level.

In my case, I checked level on the rear deck and the cowl.
Tim
It's like trying to level an egg, the body isn't symmetrical and the radi
aren't even the same on each top corner of the body/firewall flange.
I'm not sure what the proper datum point would be for "level",
options
Bottom of the body
Door sill at the front end
Feature line down the side of the body
Firewall flange X inches each side of center

I'm not concerned at the bottom because running boards cover
any sins in that area vs the frame.
Dale
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Hi Dale,

Yep, I agree.

What I did was use a 1" sq. block of wood equadistant from the center line and used my 36" digital level on the cowl and the rear deck to level side to side.

For the remainder of the process, Dan Ruth's process outlined in his post is spot on.

Since we all know the drives side his already about 1/2" higher ( or more ) than the passenger side ( was on my car anyway, as shown in my build site. ) at the grill and side panels, the 3/16" I had to raise the passenger side to get level helped compensate to some degree and didn't require the firewall be trimmed.

The bottom rail can't be seen unless one has their head on the ground and "sights" accross the rail from the passenger side to the drivers side.

With the chassis level, I recently shot the top of the windshield frame with my laser level and it was right on. Anything else in between is just where it is give the lack of symetry...... :)

It's like when I used to build aerobatic aircraft. If you get the wing and the tail relationship correct, everything else is just flying along in formation.

I think I've commented to you before Dale, I view the 33 as a 4 wheel race chassis with a plastic fairing that happens to rememble a 33 Ford.

Your results may vary ......
 

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If I could take a picture that included all of the body cuts, modifications, additions, reglass, and additions to the body to make it work, it would look like frankenstine.

Then all it takes is 100 hours of body work and you are ready for paint.

I am on final the final leg now, maybe 20 days left. Start to finish= 16 months at 7 hours a day, 7 days a week.

But the end results--------GREAT!!!!!!!!
 

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Erik Hansen- 33Machine
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The official answer from Factory Five. Of course, your results may vary because after all, it's a kit car. :001_smile:


Tony Zullo


Hi guys there are two different ways to go about this do not raise the body,you will need to trim down the fire wall a little or you can take some material off the lip of the fire wall on the body..it will work out if you can split the difference...thanks [email protected]
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Believe me, there are more than 2 ways to fit the body.......

In my case, not raising the bodly slightly on one side would have required that the "notch" in the outside of the passenger side lower ( footbox )sheet metal be modified. This is the one that matches the molded lip at that step on the body. By raising the body slightly, I was able to effectively match the firewall metal to that of the molded recess in the body and not remove much material from the upper firewall piece on the passenger side.

Raising the body slightly on the passenger side had absolutely no adverse effect on any other fit of the body or doors and made the body more level to the chassis at the points I measured.
 

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pudding

The official answer from Factory Five. Of course, your results may vary because after all, it's a kit car. :001_smile:

Tony Zullo
Hi guys there are two different ways to go about this do not raise the body,you will need to trim down the fire wall a little or you can take some material off the lip of the fire wall on the body..it will work out if you can split the difference...thanks [email protected]
Can anyone verify IF the top of the windshield is level WHEN you use Tony's approach.
Tim??
When you leveled your cowl, your widshield top was level right?
Was your body up off the frame on the pass side?
SO if you follow Tony's advice to trim the firewall wouldn't your body and windshield be canted to the left??
DB
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Hi Dale,

Yes, my windshield is level.

The passenger side does sit off the frame and I placed a shim in that area so that it all rests on the frame.

It would be easy to check by just placing the body on the frame at rest on the frame rails that are under the doors and check yours.

Had I not raised the body slightly, I would have had to do as Tony suggests and trim both the lower firewall at the "step" in the front outside footbox as well as the curvature of the upper firewall.

In my case, the windshield was canted to the right when viewed from the rear. This assumes your windshield is built like mine. EVERYTHING with these cars is a compromise because NOTHING is square or symmetrical in regard to the body. Both my Cobra builds required the same compromise in one area or another.
 

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Wonky

. What am I looking for regarding the right side issue? I have kit # 432 so maybe they fixed the problem? I can post pictures later if needed.
Jonathan
Erik got you an official answer from FF "no shims", but several owners have had to shim the pass side of the body up 3/16 to level the cowl and the top of the windshield. My assumption is that FF wants the body well supported where you climb into the car. If you look at many of the early builds from the front everyone agrees something looks very wonky but it's hard to pin down what's askew. The Grille shells had crooked bars in them and when the cowl and windshield both lean as well the front has several things askew and it just looks wrong not to fix that. I love Tim's summation because it's spot on.

It is a good race chassis with a very mediocre body kit. I think he even called it a plastic fairing. Get used to seeing YRMV because there are a lot of variables, Your Results May Vary.
DB
 

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Firewall mounting problem. Seeking ideas.

The frame that the firewall is attached to is not parallel with the cowl edge above it. It looks as tho the firewall is designed to fit into the body under the cowl lip and end up approx. at the cowl's leading edge. On my new 33 the subframe that holds the firewall is not square with the body. Grinding won't do it, I tried. I am contemplating the large sledge hammer and trying to move it 1/8" back. But it has several braces. Anyone else have this problem?

thanks

neil
 

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I did

The frame that the firewall is attached to is not parallel with the cowl edge above it. It looks as tho the firewall is designed to fit into the body under the cowl lip and end up approx. at the cowl's leading edge. On my new 33 the subframe that holds the firewall is not square with the body. Grinding won't do it, I tried. I am contemplating the large sledge hammer and trying to move it 1/8" back. But it has several braces. Anyone else have this problem?

thanks

neil
I cut the back of the small tubes at the bottom, tipped it back and rewelded the tubes. One side neded a bit more tilt than the other to make it parallel.
DB
 

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EFI Rules and Carbs Drool
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Cutting and rewelding the frame?? Wailing on it with a sledge hammer??? I'm not undestanding why such extreme measures to fit the fiberglass. Are there issues with the actual frame from FFR? I had no issues like that, but did have to trim the body and make a modification to the drivers side to make everything fit.
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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I'm not sure the upper firewall frame is placed into position on the jig and welded. Some have reported this to be off toward the aft and some toward the front. Mine is aft about .060 and changes the door gap when tightening the firewall upper frame work. It pulls on the cowl even though the main firewall tubes are flush on the sides with the body.
 
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