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Peckin' away at it
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started sanding my ... uh... "practice coat" of primer. It actually has not been too bad, this stuff sands really easy. A few low spots here and there, but better than I was worried it might be. and the next coat ought to make it great.

I am about half done on the body. My main sanding questions are about the edges/corners and recesses.

Sanding the windshield channel for instance, I have a hard time getting it flat/smooth without taking all the primer off in a bunch of areas. I know this part gets covered, but I thought it would be a good practice area before I hit the trunk lid recess. The problem seems somewhat less on the cowl recess for the hood and the rear door recess looks pretty decent.

The other area is the outside corners. Easy to take all the primer off. I have just hit it lightly using a sanding sponge which works OK, nbut any pointers? Thanks.
 

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Pro FFR Builder and Moderator
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Use your finger tips in those channels.
 

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Peckin' away at it
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How about the low areas?

I have some low areas that are fairly localized. I would like to fill them to be more certain that my next coat of Slick Sand is the last needed. I have another gallon of SS on order. I had thought about spraying another layer of it on the low areas only. I also thought about filling with Rage, but I suspect it would be hard to get it smooth as it sands different than the primer. Alternatively, I have some Nitro-stan putty on hand, I know Riptide likes it. It is a single part compound so it does shrink and cannot be put on thick, but would it be OK to fill the low areas? I do not have any other putty stuff. Gordon Levy recommends 3M metal glaze, but a search of their site returned several hundred results and I do not know how to sort them all out. Looking at all the different putty compounds makes my head spin.
 

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John,
I would say most, and certainly all in some areas, of the Slick Sand was removed when I started blocking the car. The low areas were filled with Rage Gold, then blocked again. I then hit the whole car with a primer sealer. After having a few spots that I was unhappy with, I then sanded the primer sealer with 600 grit.
I will not use the primer sealer again until I am ready to paint, as the product I used suggested to paint within 3 days of shooting the primer sealer. It must loose some of it's "tooth" after setting up too long.

Rob

Here's the nose, the doors are done, starting to finish the body.

 

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Don't hit just part of the car with Slicksand. Somwhere in the vast threads on bodywork from ScottL and STL-Scott I picked up a tip to spray two coats of the Slicksand before blocking. I think you just experienced why this is the case.

If it were me, I'd spray two more coats and then resume sanding rather than run the risk of burning through in a bunch of places again.

NOTE: You can have some burnthrough when you're done sanding as long as everything is flat. Your final prime coat will take care of giving you a consistent color for the base coats of paint.
 

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