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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #1
Just tore out all the power steering after killing another rack. Now have the flaming river 1503 (20:1) manual rack. Mark D had previously aligned the car to his track specs based on power steer.

currently, the steering is very heavy, and curious if changing the alignment back towards a street alignment will help? the car's use is mostly track, so the ultimate goal is high-speed stability.

For those with a manual rack, what are your alignment specs?
 

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To the OP-

Pat has some good advice about revisiting the FFR build manual.

I've been where you're going, and tore out the PS in favor of a 'true manual' Flaming River set up.

To answer your original question, I used the alignment specs in the Mark 3 build manual, and they work fine for me. They are as follows:

Caster: 3 degrees
Camber: -0.5 degrees
Total Toe: 1/16"

HTH,
Will
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #4
Many thanks guys, kinda my thoughts as well.

Just trying to find some people with feedback to verify.
 

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Premium Member
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I am at the same specs as Will. It is very neutral steering setup for me.
 

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I'm running about 1 degree caster for autocross and I like it (manual steering / 275 V710s up front).

You might not like it at higher speeds.


Approach with caution.
 

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Snake Farmer
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I used the manual specs for my FR non-power rack. Even with the 15:1 quick ratio rack, at speed, it is very smooth and easy to drive.

A tad heavy when parking, or at a crawl, but it helps build muscles..:)
 

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not sure why you go through so many racks. I've only had two over a span of 5 years. The hydraulic part is fine, the tie rod end ball sockets wear out.
You can dial in less caster, but you lose self centering. Mine is hard to steer sometimes with a powered rack, I can't imagine racing with no power assist.
 

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Official OLD GUY
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MKII w/ FR 20:1 rack

I've had a Flaming River manual rack in my car since day one - 20:1 ratio and I love it.
Alignment specs are:
Caster: 3 degrees
Camber: -0.5 degrees
Total Toe: 1/16"
Same as posted above - run 22# up front, 24# in the rear tires.
NO wandering at all with Nitto 555's w/ 275x40x17 front, 315x35x17 rears.
Car is stable to 125 mph.

I really don't "feel" the heaviness when parking, guess I'm used to it after 12 1/2 years . . . go figure.

HTH

Doc :beerchug:
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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More ...

Those street spec's sound about right, I used them for a few yrs. w/ the man rack myself ( actually I think I have 2 or 3 racks left if anyone is interested ) ...... but, as spring rates went up, tires got stickier and car got faster I could no longer catch it faithfully ... at higher speeds it was dead solid ( track & street ), running the speed limit on the highway it was all over the place and felt as though you were chasing ruts all the time, let alone the bang from the wonderful pot holes ....... made the move to p/s 5 - 6 yrs. back & still have the same rack in the car ( cheep AutoZone unit ) w/ KRC pump & KRC fluid & Afco cooler, I would never go back ....... much easier to drive, move and catch in case of a spin & far easier to drift ( there is a reason all the vast majority of challenge cars went to p/s ) ...... don't get me wrong the man rack is not un-drive-able at all it is more that a good p/s is far nicer
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #11
Many comments here and verbally have been about the benefits of power. Trying out the manual to see.

Mark D gave me the following:

4 1/2 degrees caster
-1.5 degrees camber
1/16" toe out

Said tolerable on the street, good on track
 

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manual steering rack specs

Tonys Spec Racer used manual rack, we ran 5.5 to 6.0 degres caster, 1.5 to 2.5 camber depending on track and 1/8 inch toe out. That was with the hoosier a6's.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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...4 1/2 degrees caster
-1.5 degrees camber
1/16" toe out...
I would certainly use these. Many don't know that the more negative camber, the more you can use toe out. The gyroscopic effect of the negative camber works with toe out.

If you can handle more steering effort, use more caster.

Also, the SAI kit should be better for steering effort.
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter #14
Many comments here and verbally have been about the benefits of power. Trying out the manual to see.

Mark D gave me the following:

4 1/2 degrees caster
-1.5 degrees camber
1/16" toe out

Said tolerable on the street, good on track
VERY happy with this set-up. Actually not bad on the street once moving.

Thanks to all!
 
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