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FFCobra Fanatic
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7,022 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am almost done installing my Vortech VS-1.
What should I change for this upgrade?
This is my current set up.

1. MSD 6 with coil
2. plugs are gapped to .045, 900 miles on them
3. Timing is set around 13
4. TFS Weadge heads
5. TFS Stage 1 cam
6. TFS street heat upper and lower with 3/8 tfs spacer.
7. 9mm Ford wire, 900 miles
8. stock distibutor, miles ? working good
9. 30 pound injectors, miles ? working good
10.75 Pro M MAF
11.Accufabe adjustable fuel regulator running 40PSI
12. 255 LPH High pressure fuel pump. BREEZE GREAT VENDOR!!!
13. 1/4" return line 5/16" supply fuel lines. Will upgrade to 3/8" supply and 5/16" if needed after dyno tuning.
14. No Cats stock sidepipes.
15. Running S/C with 3.33 pully 8-10 pounds of boost according to Vortech!!!!!!!
16. FMU with 6:1 disk for 30#injectors.
17. 195 Degree termostat
18. It was running rich before installin S/C
19. At the dyno will have a SCT or Diablosport revolution chip burned.
20. I want a 6000 rev limit, keep motor safe!

Ok give me your 2 cents more if you have it.

Once it is dynoed I will see if the fuel system is up to the task. Shooting for around 350RWHP, 425 FWHP. Stock block would like to keep it for a while.

John
 

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"Senior"
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1,123 Posts
My setup has basically the same size components as yours except I have Edelbrock Performer heads, "E" cam, Typhoon intake, 75mm TB&EGR, plugs gapped little lower, and timing little lower. In my dyno run, I made 386 rwhp, 380 torque at almost 11 lbs of boost. This was only up to 5200 rpms as fuel pressure/flow dropped off and it was shut down. Over the winter I'm installing an external booster fuel pump and having it re-dynoed (this is what was recommended).
Jim
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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7,022 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jimmy I would love to see your set up.
Who dynoed it? THose are great numbers...

I have a Vortech T-rex in line pump if needed. Will see at dyno.

John
 

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Charter Member
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456 Posts
I have GT-40 cast heads with all the whistle's and bell's you said and at about 5800 rpms I get with 406rwhp/391.3 rwtq pushing 12.4 of boost. I think you should drop FMU and go to 42lb injectors plus fab a length of pipe between the MAF and supercharger. At the dyno shop they said its the only way to calm (stop swirling) the air down.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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7,022 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the picture.
I put together two 4" 45 degree elbos from the S/c Intake that go around thr F panel, then the flex pipe. My MAF is located over the right front wheel with the air cleaner.

What is the sencore on the discharge tube? ACT to measure air temp? Why is it not on the lower intake?

John
 

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Official Member of the Unofficial "First 500 Club"
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3,007 Posts
I think I set my initial timing lower too, around 11 degrees.

You should be ok with your elbows and flex pipe. I have one elbox and flexpipe with the meter near the fender louver. You will know right away if your meter is too close as the idle will surge like you won't believe.

You must have bought the Walbro GSS340 high pressure pump? I would think that would be fine.
 

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Slowest Builder in NY
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455 Posts
John,
Since you'll be tuning the timing curve with the chip, you should not apply boost when driving the car now. In fact I would only drive it without the belt on.

The tuner will have the base timing set to 10 deg btdc and adjust the timing curve with the software.

Sounds like a great combo! Good Luck

Art.................
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Steve that is the exact pump I purchased from Mark. I am trying to get this done for moochfest.
All the little things are killing me.


John
 

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Charter Member
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John I had the same 45 elbow (looked nice) on my set up when I arrived at the dyno shop, but it was a problem with air flow so we came up with the straight pipe. As for the sensor, the air after the supercharger gets pretty hot so I don't think it would be a true reading.
 

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"Senior"
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John:
Here's a picture of my setup. I also have that pump installed (GSS340). Car was dynoed at CD Performance in Fall River.
Jim


[ January 25, 2007, 02:19 PM: Message edited by: JimmyZ ]
 

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Premium Member
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9,698 Posts
John, reduce your ignition lead to 10 deg. You probably won't get detonation, but it's cool this time of year, but when it warms up this summer you may get some with more ignition lead.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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2,510 Posts
I'd bring your plug gap way down to around 0.030 I was getting a lot of plug blow out and missing under boost until I got down to 0.030.
As for dynoing I'd give Mike Dez a call he was able to get my old beater up to some pretty good numbers.
 

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Premium Member
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2,919 Posts
Well my setup is VERY similar to yours (check my sig line)



At 42 lbs injectors NO FMU i'm at 90% Duty cycle at 9.7 PSI (5700 RPM). I'm making 430 RWHP and 410 RWTQ. Auto lite plugs (2623) gapped to .038 and MSD 6AL. I would ditch the FMU and move up to 42's. If you don't have a wideband O2, I would absolutely get a chip burned on the dyno although there are people running similar setups WITHOUT chip. You need to check AFR for sure. Every engine is a bit different and opinions will very. I just know what finally worked for me.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update with tonights work installed FMU,small fuel leak. Reinstalled oil pan with welded on fitting.













 
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