Factory Five Racing Forum banner

21 - 40 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,347 Posts
Congrats Rafael, sounds like a great project. I also used an 89 GT for a donor. It's been a great car and continues to make me smile every time I fire it up. Post some pics and keep us updated on the build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I really like my MKII in fact I prefer it over the MK4 body and wouldn't trade it. Good find.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,066 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
302 is fun, but I went 331 after an issue and now I would love to go 427 Windsor in the car!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Nice find. I would have been interested that! I did my MKII build in 2004-2005 .
From my experiences and a lot of good advice on the forum.
Hopefully the achieves are hopefully still available.

Some quick comments:


- Left my body outside in hot sun and freezing winters to help expose any voids in the fiberglass
before painting. Beat it with a stiff wire brush to find air pockets and voids.

- Used special marine solvent to remove the mold wax from the fiberglass body before sanding.
I think it was a 3M product.

- POR 15 the frame. I sprayed it with salt water and let it get a little surface rust first . 17 yrs later
the coating is holding up well.

- Grind out mold seams on the body with Dremel tool and fill with marine High Strength Resin Filler
I think it was 3M. 17 years and no sign of the seams showing up through the paint. No ghosting
in the hot sun.

- Paint underside of body with truck bed liner coating. Looks much nicer than the fiberglass cloth
and may help reduce noise.

- Sound and heat proofing material in trunk and cockpit

- Air vents to the foot boxes.

- Get rivet spacer, and deburring tool from Spruce Air tool cheap air rivet gun from Harbor Freight (mine cost
$30 and still works fine).

- Roger Stein (RIP) EFI wiring harness This is one of the best improvements I can think of.
It was plug and play and car started and idled fine on very first touch of the key. All
lights , gauges, fans, etc worked fine. I think Roger had a counterpart that took over.
I sent entire fox body wiring harness from my 1990 and about 25 lbs went out and
7 pounds came back all shortened and customized for the Cobra.

- I went with 4 link and for me I found that 250Lb shocks on rear and 400Lb on front
5" ride height are the most comfortable on bad New England roads. No racing for me.

Things I wished I had done:
- Install the power steering. I went with Flaming River manual rack.
Not bad, but now with age I would appreciate.

- Higher quality carpet.

- Drink cup recessed holders in the console

- Sway bars

- Put the battery in the Engine compartment. I hate the thought of the gas tank and battery
being so close in event of rear end collision. I'll move this soon.


Good luck with the build!

Dan
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,566 Posts
Rafael , the MK2's have a major problem with regards to the legal identification of the frame. I'm asuming you did recieve the MSO along with your car, and on the MSO is a factory five kit number, something like FFRxxxxK. This number is not on your frame at all. And since most inspectors always want to see the documentation of the parts during the inspection / registration / titling process, if this number is not on the frame, it can cause major problems.

There is a number welded into the 2 x 3 cross tube that is at the floor level of the trunk, just ahead of the rear wheel. That number is NOT your MSO number, it is a frame number which is not on any of yoour paperwork. Do not show this frame number to an inspector, it will just confuse them.

SOLUTION is to go ahead and mark your frame with the kit number. I would do it in several spots, but the most easily accessable is on the 2 x 2 cross tube that is in front of and just above the drivers knees . Thew MK4's have their number stamped on the far left end near the door hinge area so that you can show the inspector without too much trouble. Harbor Freight has a number stamping kit that will work for this.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,066 Posts
Rafael , the MK2's have a major problem with regards to the legal identification of the frame. I'm asuming you did recieve the MSO along with your car, and on the MSO is a factory five kit number, something like FFRxxxxK. This number is not on your frame at all. And since most inspectors always want to see the documentation of the parts during the inspection / registration / titling process, if this number is not on the frame, it can cause major problems.

There is a number welded into the 2 x 3 cross tube that is at the floor level of the trunk, just ahead of the rear wheel. That number is NOT your MSO number, it is a frame number which is not on any of yoour paperwork. Do not show this frame number to an inspector, it will just confuse them.

SOLUTION is to go ahead and mark your frame with the kit number. I would do it in several spots, but the most easily accessable is on the 2 x 2 cross tube that is in front of and just above the drivers knees . Thew MK4's have their number stamped on the far left end near the door hinge area so that you can show the inspector without too much trouble. Harbor Freight has a number stamping kit that will work for this.
Interesting. My MK II has the FFRxxxxk number stamped on the frame.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,566 Posts
Interesting. My MK II has the FFRxxxxk number stamped on the frame.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jim, does your FFR number end with a K or RD ?

FFR did not stamp frame with the MSO number until they went to the new system of kit numbers, ie: FFR1000xxxxRD.

I think that was also the same time frame as the MIK3's came into production.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,066 Posts
It ends with a K.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,606 Posts
My 2004 Mk2 has a stamp on the body,at the trunk area,as pictured here.Dunno if this helps any.Maybe it can be traced backwards.
359940
359941
 

·
BUCKEYE IN NC
Joined
·
965 Posts
Hello, I recently purchased a MK2 Base Kit that that was never put together. It also came with a few extras. The previous owner purchased a 80K mile 89 GT and generously included all the parts with the kit. I will be documenting my build here. I would appreciate any input good or bad. The plan is to use the 89 GT parts after I freshen up/rebuild them.

Thank you, Rafael

View attachment 359862
Congrats, Rafael!
Do you have this manual:
If not, it will be invaluable.
You will love this build!
Rich
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
I have spent the last 2 days working on cleaning up the donor parts only to find out they are to rusted and the bushings are too far gone. So far the only thing I could save from the suspension is the front spindles. I was going to rebuild the front and rear control arms after sandblasting and painting but the new ones are so inexpensive I have ordered new ones.
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
664 Posts
I remember doing that!
I spent way too much time fighting to get the donor rear control arms off the car, then pressing out the bushings, then painting them, only to discover the bushings cost as much as replacement control arms.

Lesson is to always check the cost of new before reconditioning used parts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: [email protected]

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I bought my MKII used about Six years ago and have been upgrading it. The roadster had unknown coil over shocks on the rear, an APE hard top windshield wipers, heater and a stock Mustang 302 with a 600 Holey on a Edelbrock manifold. About six months after buying the roadster the engine dropped a valve, the damage was minimal. The engine was rebuilt as a stroked 331 with a Ford Performance cam, Edelbrock Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock Air-Gap intake, roller rockers and the 600 holey was reused. What a difference, it was like owning a different car. Since then I have installed tubular lower A-arms, three link rear end, Koni shocks, parking brake, new door panels, the correct Halibrand wheels, Breeze hood hinge, new seats and stainless steel exhaust. All except the hinge came from Factory Five.
 

·
Not a waxer
Joined
·
11,843 Posts
My 2004 Mk2 has a stamp on the body,at the trunk area,as pictured here.Dunno if this helps any.Maybe it can be traced backwards.
That is the body mold number and isn't related to the chassis number.

Jeff
 
21 - 40 of 45 Posts
Top