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Too Cheap to paint!
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I’m swapping in an aluminum-headed 5.0 Gt-40 engine, with clutch & trans, with no intake on it, and pulling my worn-out stock 5.0. My hoist has chains and a long equalizing bar, bar, but not adjustable, which is no problem.

In previous motor installs, I always used opposing bolt holes in the iron heads with no worries. Now with the aluminum heads, I am concerned about stripping out threads or doing any damage.

When you installed your aluminum-headed motor with a regular hoist, where and how did you attach it?

Many Thanks!
 

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I'll preface this by saying, it's just my opinion, but I put my engine and trans combo in with it all hooked to a leveler which was held onto the aluminum intake by the four carb bolts. No fuss, no muss in my case.

I think you would be fine.


Chris.
 

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I just ran a bolt into the steel thermactor plugs in the end of each head. Used a rag to keep the chains from chewing up the aluminum. It worked great.





Hope this helps - good luck.
 

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Did same as Scott,absolutely no problems.
Paul M.
 

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My leveler didn't have long enough chains so I did my 408/TKO combination with a lift plate attached to the carb studs. Same as Chris above. I have done several installs this way and never had a problem.
 

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I did it the same way as Scott L, except I used some old screw in rocker studs to attach the chains to the heads. The rocker studs are 7/16" on one end, and 3/8" on the other, which fits the chain a little better. John
 

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Delivered 05/11/07
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Many are concerned about lifting from the carb holes in an aluminum manifold (me too).

I saw an episode of Muscle Car (Spike TV) and Lou destructively tested this method using strain guages and the failure point was something like 4 or 5 times the motor weight.
 

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Runs with scissors!
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Originally posted by BT:
Many are concerned about lifting from the carb holes in an aluminum manifold (me too).

I saw an episode of Muscle Car (Spike TV) and Lou destructively tested this method using strain guages and the failure point was something like 4 or 5 times the motor weight.
The numbers in the article that "convincor" links to above basically say that you could lift the entire car with a lift plate bolted to the manifold.

I wouldn't worry about lifting just the motor with the plate.
 

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Torque Junkie
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I've lifted several big blocks with trans attached from with a lift plate on the intake manifold and never had a problem.
 

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I have seen and read tests using a lift plate on the intake but I have never used one. All engines I've pulled or replaced have been bolting to opposit ends of the heads. Bolted to the air injection port/accessory bolt hole. I use a balance beam and stuff rags between the chain and the heads to avoid scratches.
I think with either method your OK.
Enjoy your new motor.
 

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I bolted the chains too the front and back of the heads,no problem. You just need to be sure too use the correct lenth bolt. Bolt needs to have a flat washer but also needs to be tight in the head meaning no slop between bolt head,chain link and head. Don't want the bolt to bottom out before these parts are held tight to each other.
 
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