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I wanted to circle back and let folks know that I LOVE LOVE these mufflers. With the FFR side pipes, I needed to wear earplugs or my ears would ring after driving the car. I have not worn earplugs since installing these mufflers. The car still sounds great but its just not harsh. Much quieter while cruising...

Incredibly, after driving the car hard, I can literally put my hand on the muffler where my leg would touch it and it's hot, but it doesnt burn me. Doing that with a normal pipe would leave sheets of skin on the pipe!

David
David,

You wouldn't happen to have a laser thermometer to give a readout after a few miles of driving? Definitely interested to see what temp reads. Especially if using drummer mikes heat shield as a secondary heat barrier
 

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I checked them with a laser after a dyno run. The collectors were 350 degrees and the muffler just 6 inches further downstream was 120 degrees. FFR mufflers were over 300 degrees in a direct comparison. I'm sure they would get hotter with sustained load. David mentioned after a drive he could touch his without damage, so they didn't get too much hotter.

Bob

David,

You wouldn't happen to have a laser thermometer to give a readout after a few miles of driving? Definitely interested to see what temp reads. Especially if using drummer mikes heat shield as a secondary heat barrier
 

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I checked them with a laser after a dyno run. The collectors were 350 degrees and the muffler just 6 inches further downstream was 120 degrees. FFR mufflers were over 300 degrees in a direct comparison. I'm sure they would get hotter with sustained load. David mentioned after a drive he could touch his without damage, so they didn't get too much hotter.

Bob
120...not bad at all. :yes:
 

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I checked them with a laser after a dyno run. The collectors were 350 degrees and the muffler just 6 inches further downstream was 120 degrees. FFR mufflers were over 300 degrees in a direct comparison. I'm sure they would get hotter with sustained load. David mentioned after a drive he could touch his without damage, so they didn't get too much hotter.

Bob
Unfortunately those infrared thermometers (the laser is just there to show you what you are pointing at) do not work on bare metal surfaces. So those readings are likely way lower than actual... IMO.
 

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I sprayed black high temp paint on several test spots for that reason. That is where I was measuring it.

Unfortunately those infrared thermometers (the laser is just there to show you what you are pointing at) do not work on bare metal surfaces. So those readings are likely way lower than actual... IMO.
 

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I sprayed black high temp paint on several test spots for that reason. That is where I was measuring it.
Ahh ok nevermind then... carry on... and that is a pretty low temp. My coated pipes get hot enough to melt plastic... that is all I know.
 

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i received my mufflers today, they are a fairly decent mill finish, but definitely not polished. It doesn't look like it would be too difficult to polish them.

They did not have any indication of inlet or outlet, so have we determined which end is which. The cones are consistent on both mufflers at 15 1/2" deep on one end and 14 3/16" on the other.

Thanks,

BigUgly
 

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Impressive results. The ffr mufflers are 21" long. Just curious why go to 30" vs 24" slimlines? Power, Sound difference? 24" looks more period correct.
 

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Impressive results. The ffr mufflers are 21" long. Just curious why go to 30" vs 24" slimlines? Power, Sound difference? 24" looks more period correct.
One consideration to go with the 30" is it puts the muffler (where it is double-cased) further back and actually in the area where your leg/calf usually locates when getting out of the car. What's cool about these is that they run much cooler where they are double cased and reduce or eliminate the accidental snake bite. The smaller 24" puts your leg more around the turnout which is single walled and is much hotter and more prone to biting. The assumption here is that we all exit our cars the same way and I know we don't. I have the Gas-N pipes and love them except with 3 snake bites and most likely counting from different people I have considered these slimines but would only go for the 30s.

Trevor
 

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David's side pipes turn out about where the Gas-N pipes do. However the Gas-N use a 24" muffler but has a much longer tip which nets about the same length. The one thing I don't like about my Gas-N pipes is the long tip. 3 snake bites in the family thus far and all have been with contact on the tip, not the muffler. The muffler portion is a bit cooler than the tip. I'm sure it would still bite you. I love the sound and looks of my Gas-Ns but a longer muffler and a shorter tip would be better I think.
They do look great. Question about shields: are 36" long going to be too long? Also, is 180^ too much, or would something like 120^ be better?
 

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They do look great. Question about shields: are 36" long going to be too long? Also, is 180^ too much, or would something like 120^ be better?
I think the point to these mufflers is you don't NEED the heatshields as the Flowmasters are double-walled and the outer wall doesn't transmit nearly the same heat as the FFR or GasN pipes
 

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I have been following this thread and purchased the Flowmasters. The FFR pipes are fun when the car is first driven but then got on my nerves for a longer trip. Like some others I got one of each weld type and the one done with TIG had the inlet sticker. The one done with a MIG took quite a effort to grind out the weld for the 3.5" pipe to fit into. But was it was done and they were welded into the FFR stainless ones. Thank you David for finding the Flowmasters and posting this thread. They are everything you said and I like them. I'm thinking of adding a radio now that it can be heard and conversations can be had at highway speeds.

I kept the heat shields because my wife got a cobra bit before they were installed and is now twice shy. The mufflers themselves run much cooler but the tip is still too hot for bare skin.
 

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ROOKIE!
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Anybody put these on a Dyno yet?

Jeff
 

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Thanks Bobl! Much appreciated. Contemplating these for my coupe. The stock ffr pipes are super raspy and loud. This might be the answer for me.

jeff
 

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Has anyone put a wideband O2 bung in? I have one in my passenger side collector. Looking at the pictures, there is not much of it left.

Is there any consistency as to where the nicer welded ones came from? Or is it the usual case of the older ones were a little nicer?
 

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Not quite sure of your question about the 02 bung placement. What pictures are you talking about?

None the less, sensor placement is important. They should be between 15 and 75 degrees from horizontal and should not be too far from the closest exhaust valve or special precautions or solutions should be taken. The angle avoids getting contaminates in the sensor like water from condensation and combustion. The distance from the exhaust valve has to do with keeping the sensor warm enough to read properly and there are solutions to get the proper reading.

Do you only have one on the passenger side? There should be one for each bank of cylinders.

Here is a good six page description of 02 sensor placement:
http://wbo2.com/lsu/LsuInstal.pdf

This is a shorter version of the above pdf:
Oxygen Sensor Installation Issues (Tech Edge)

One other note not related to the last post. I read the other day that these mufflers have a longitudinal seam which shows up once polished so position the muffler so the seam is hidden against the car body when welding them up or tacking them for later welding.

George
 

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Not quite sure of your question about the 02 bung placement. What pictures are you talking about?

None the less, sensor placement is important. They should be between 15 and 75 degrees from horizontal and should not be too far from the closest exhaust valve or special precautions or solutions should be taken. The angle avoids getting contaminates in the sensor like water from condensation and combustion. The distance from the exhaust valve has to do with keeping the sensor warm enough to read properly and there are solutions to get the proper reading.

Do you only have one on the passenger side? There should be one for each bank of cylinders.

Here is a good six page description of 02 sensor placement:
http://wbo2.com/lsu/LsuInstal.pdf

This is a shorter version of the above pdf:
Oxygen Sensor Installation Issues (Tech Edge)

One other note not related to the last post. I read the other day that these mufflers have a longitudinal seam which shows up once polished so position the muffler so the seam is hidden against the car body when welding them up or tacking them for later welding.

George

George,

Thanks for the info, but I have a wide band for carb tuning, not a narrow band for EFI. Wide band needs to be away from the high heat that a narrow needs, so they are normally in the collector. Only 1 is really needed for carb tuning and is only in the pipe while tuning. It is pretty much impossible to get the correct angle in the side pipe, but since they don't stay in permanently, it is not an issue.

The pictures in this thread show that with the 30" muffler, there basically is no straight piece of collector left ahead of the muffler. I would imagine that I could still get it in just before the muffler, but would like to see a pic if someone already has it figured out.

I will definitely make sure that I have the seam in a hidden position.

I would do the 24" ones, but I need all the noise reduction I can get.
 

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There's plenty of room for the 02 sensor. Just leave as much collector as possible when you cut the old mufflers off. The collector slides inside the Slimline. Insert it just far enough to get a good weld.

Bob
 
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