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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'd like to know how you go about installing the two rear nuts.
There is no room to get your hand in there.
The front knobs are hard enough.
If anyone out ther has any tips....I'm all ears.:helpsmilie:
 

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You are not alone on this one, I would like to know too. -- Chuck
 

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· Geek
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I don't think I need to remove any foam.
I find the seats very comfortable.
Removing the foam is completely separate and distinct from mounting the seat with rivnuts and bolts from the top. The fact that both steps are mentioned in that link are presumably because that's what that member did, but they do not need to happen together. I have my seats mounted exactly that way and I have not removed or reshaped any foam.
 

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It probably has something to do with the seats you're using. I have Cobra Classic seats and it's no problem, although for the right rear, next to the trans tunnel, I do have to drop a knee onto the seat cushion to get my arm at the correct angle.
Frank
 

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I cut- off and heat bent this wrench to allow me to tighten the rear nuts--just barely enough room.

 

· FFCobra Captain
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If you put something under the seat to give you a 3/"" lift (both front & rear), would that give you enough room?

Maybe try cutting a piece of 3/4" plywood in the shape of the bottom of the seat. Then put the bolts through the seat/wood into the breeze base. That won't change the angle of the seat...just lift it up evenly (as long as the lift doesn't push your head too high).
 

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As the pans I received from Breeze are steel, you can weld on a steel capscrew, going from the bottom of the pan up. I used a 1/4-20 UNC Grade 5so I could fit the nut into the slide track channel. (My seat are adjustable this way) This welded fastener then makes it a studded connection, fixed on one end by the weld. Then you only need to use a nut from the top and no wrench on the bottom. MIG weld all around the head of the capscrew, so that is very secure and will not break off. Check your weld quality closely to the thin gauge material used for the pan. Wire brush it off the welded area, primer it and then paint it. Leave the front connection as a drill thru hole and use a capscrew and hex nut with washers.

If you raise the seat too much higher and you are like me (about 5 feet 10 inches tall, you may encounter the top of your head being up to the windshield level and in the wind. So just be aware that any height increases in the seat put you into the wind, as well as getting your thighs closer to the steering wheel.
 

· Master Student
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I cut- off and heat bent this wrench to allow me to tighten the rear nuts--just barely enough room.

That's what I did. The toughest part is starting the nut. I told my wife I was putting in an adjustable seat until I found out just how hard it is to install/move these. I just got some granny pads and she's only driven it once... :w00t:
 

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On the inside rear I used thumb nuts from McMasters. About once a year I have to reach back there and tighten them up.

McMaster-Carr
 

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Kid Friendly

That's why we have kids... My youngest son, with really small hands said it was no problem. Of course, don't ask me to adjust it any time soon.....
 

· Unconventional Builder
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I have mine mounted on Street Performer seats. I replaced the "Knobs" with 1/2 nuts and I use a 1/4 drive socket to tighten them, some 1 click at a time.
 

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I'm with Mikey, my wife has small hands and she could get them started and most of the way down. Then used small open end wrench to finish up. They are probably not very tight.

I surely don't want to move them. and adjustable is just a vague concept to me. Keeps others out of the driver"s seat.

Ralph
 

· Too Cheap to paint!
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Thumb nuts on mine too. Can be a challenge, but patience and dexterity.
 

· Blue Oval Scribe
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I just helped a friend do the clutch mod from FFR and had to put his steel frame Mk 3.1 seat back in with the Breeze mount. What I find would make it a LOT easier is if the studs had starter tips on them (think NASCAR wheel stud). OE's use starter tip studs/bolts on the assembly line and it would be a great idea here. The nut can just be placed over the smooth tip and it will start on the threads easier than trying to start the nut on the tip of the stud blind!

Mark
 

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· Junior Charter Member
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seats

After locating my seat pans I simply drilled through the floor in the proper location and used a bolt and fender washer from below. A small spacer placed between the pan and floor lets you snug it up. Works perfect.

krusty
 

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