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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm finally tackling my wiring and was looking for a source for relays when I saw a previous post with a link to modublox.

MODUBLOX Low/High Beam Headlight Module

It looks good to me but since I'll be into it for $115 after shipping I thought I'd see if anyone had success with it.

Thanks,
Vic
 

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That was me that started a thread on this module a while back:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...-option-headlights-high-beams-not-60s-vw.html

I'm still a few months away from actual wiring on my Mk4, so sorry I can't give an actual working endorsement. But I have the module in my possession, and have carefully studied the instructions along with the Ron Francis wiring harness and schematics. It appears to be very straightforward and I expect it to work exactly as intended.

I have the Bosch latching relay on my hi/lo beam circuit in my Mk3. It works, but sometimes takes several clicks before it latches. My headlights go through the headlight switch, and I have no flash to pass. All of this should be simpler, better, and (hopefully) more reliable with the American Autowire module. I'll post the results when completed, but it's going to be a few months at least. Still hanging aluminum panels...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The video looks good, I'll grab one.

The cost of getting both relays listed in the instruction with shipping is comparable.

Thanks for your previous post, I'll let you know how it works out for me.

Vic


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I built a relay harness using standard 30 amp five prong relays, total cost was about $75 including all the wiring, terminals, and shrink tube. I used about 15% of the bulk packages of the last two. That wired the 85/100 off roads H4's from bulb to battery.

It's worked fine for 5 years. The instructions on building a relay harness are found on forums in numerous places. build your own relay harness - Google Search

The advantage is you can shop all the parts and access them at your local parts house, you build the harness so you learn how to troubleshoot it, and you are intimately aware of the quality of construction.

I did not use relay plugs, just shrink tubed female spade terminals to attach. It might not look elegant - but when I first tried the lights and they were wigwagging high/lo, I only had to swap two terminals. NOT cut and resolder.

The use of commonly available parts means I can pick up a replacement relay from the fog light display for $5 if it ever goes bad. An integrated unit like the one in the OP's post is a $100 loss at that point. Having driven 18-25 year old cars, wiring is a major issue. I don't set myself up for failure. If I were to do it again (and I plan that,) I would upgrade to tinned multistrand dual insulated military grade wire. I'd still crimp terminals and shrink tube them, but use a higher grade terminal connector rated at least 100 disconnects - not the junk the factories use. The idea is to be immersion resistant - considering the amount of water under the hood during a good rain, it needs to be.

There's a lot of makers out there selling stuff to make installation easier, but the real issue is that hot rodders and home mechanics just don't like electrical stuff, and we leave ourselves deficient in that area of accomplishment. Considering the great lengths and expense we sometimes go to in plumbing, mechanical parts, and aesthetics, it seems out of balance to throw some cheap wiring at the project and get by with it. It's like we embrace planned obsolescence instead installing upgraded electrics to match the drivetrain.

Take a walk thru a used car lot and see how much of the electrics don't work on cars over 15 years old. "As Is" means "Corroded wiring too expensive to fix."
 

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American auto wire 4 position headlight switch , simple cheap effective. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
American auto wire 4 position headlight switch , simple cheap effective. Bob
That's a good idea, and cheap. I'd have to make my 65 mustang bezel work but I'm sure it can be done.


To turn back this topic just a bit...

I've been using an EZ wire harness to get the job done and the documentation seems to imply if I wire it all up it's going to work with what is included. Am I looking at relays for no reason?

Page 7 shows how to wire the headlights http://www.clparts.com/pdfs/ez_wire_wm.pdf

If I use Russ Thompson's stalk can I simply wire this in place of the hi-lo actuator and it will work?


I know, I seem like an idiot, I feel like one.

Cheers,
Vic
 

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There's a lot of makers out there selling stuff to make installation easier, but the real issue is that hot rodders and home mechanics just don't like electrical stuff, and we leave ourselves deficient in that area of accomplishment. Considering the great lengths and expense we sometimes go to in plumbing, mechanical parts, and aesthetics, it seems out of balance to throw some cheap wiring at the project and get by with it. It's like we embrace planned obsolescence instead installing upgraded electrics to match the drivetrain.
Deleted... Never mind.
 

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Sorry to resurrect this thread but I wanted to thank Dennis for the 611T schematic. I have a 611T that Ive never used but have a friend that will. I used the American Autowire module and it works great but seems to be unavailable.

D
 

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...it's German, trust me it works!:yes:
 

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