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Finally starting!!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for curb weight, at least as a go-cart form, aka no body. Or just what your Cobra weighs and with what to it?

I'm shooting for 2000lbs or less, personally. I'm going with either a 12 or 15gallon fuel cell, manual brakes/steering. 4wheel disc w/ 15" Weld lightweight wheels, 302/T5, lightweight race seats, etc. No body, hardly any aluminum panels except where needed, and I'm either going to have double roll bars or a full cage. BTW this is a mk1 chassis.

Anyone think I can do it? Factory Five quotes 2150lbs, with all their aluminum and a body, plus who knows how heavy those Halibrand style wheels are, so I think I can do it for 2000lbs!

I'm interested in knowing what other people with similar setups weigh in at, and if anyone has weighed their car just as a rolling/driving chassis, no body/misc work.
 

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Master Builder
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1,243 Posts
If I stand on the curb i'm at 175 lbs, oh the car, go kart weighed in at 1940 with no carpet and 1 seat. By the way it was done with 4 scale weight not a full weight so there is room for error.
 

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891 Posts
My Mk II with a stock 5.0 engine and 4 link rear axle weights in at just over 2300 lbs (without driver).

Bud K
 

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3,154 Posts
2080# on SoCal Shelby Club scales.

GT 40 wheels with Hoosier race tires. Aluminum heads and heavy Cobra intake that's been replaced with a 650 Holley.

Roger
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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6,423 Posts
2270 at VIR
 

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2159# race weight with aluminum pumpkin torsen IRS, aluminum headed 302, sway bars, huge wheels and tires, aluminum flywheel, full interior, glass windshield and a honking heavy mark I vinylester body.

thats with enough gas to not starve on 1.5 G turns and decent sized battery.

im sure my go kart is well under 2000.

james
 

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2158#, 302, 3-link, 17" 275/315 halibrands, 1/2 tank of gas
 

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7,237 Posts
FFR2229K (mk1) - 2386# when I corner weighted it a month ago.

302 w/ aluminum heads & supercharger
power steering
Tremec w/ McLeod steel bellhousing (HEAVY)
3-link w/ coilovers
VPM swaybars
17" PSE Halibrands (heavy)
just under 1/4 tank of gas
 

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97 Posts
2300#

MKIII
351W w/Carb and Aluminum heads
Power Steering
Tremec w/ scattershield
3 link
17x9 front and 17x10.5 Bullit Wheels
Full Tank of Gas (14 Gallons)
No Carpet
Only Drivers Seat
 

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Finally starting!!!
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480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Awesome guys, I picked my frame up today so I'm on my quest to have a rolling chassis by spring. I still think it's doable even though no one has posted under 2000lbs. Wish me luck.
 

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I'm under 2000 pounds. The car on the other hand is ...............................

jack
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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4,257 Posts
2000 is doable if you are building with weight before all else. My CRX racecar is built that way and I've lost about 300 pounds (think about how light one of those are to begin with).

Some things to consider, especially if this is going to be a racecar or race replica:

Find a carbon fibre body or at least doors/trunk/hood.
No quick jacks at all
Think about what aluminum panels you need and what you don't need.
Lightest 15x7 wheels you can find with light (slicks) tires
spec racer lexan windshield (I saw one in the F/S section)
no carpet
Carve the dash down. I'd rivet a piece of aluminum between the big and small cross members and keep it just large enough to fit the gauges you want. Paint it flat black (you don't need the reflections)
Battery over pass footbox (honda crx size) to reduce wire weight and location allows starting.
small aluminum radiator

Have fun with it. I plan to remove another 100 pounds out of my crx this winter once my cobra mods are done.
 

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Once you lose the body, windshield, mirrors, and aluminum panels and all those corresponding fasteners you will be way under 2000 lbs.
 

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Less than 2000 lbs is certainly possible, but you'll make a lot of sacrifices. I think you could even get under 1800 lbs if your budget is high and your intended comfort level is low.

Think like a sprint car builder:
No carpet. Lightweight kirky seats (make the passengers side easily removable). No windshield. No heater or AC. AL radiator. All aluminum brackets milled/drilled for lightness. Drilled spindles. Gun drilled axles. 2 piece brake rotors with AL hats. AL calipers. Small battery. AL heim joints in place of tie rod ends. If you're using fuel injection, then pitch the upper intake in favor of a fabricated tubular deisgn. AL heads. Superlight wheels. Racing tires with thin sidewalls. Hollow AL steering wheel. Hollow steering shaft with AL u-joints. AL driveshaft. No fuel gauge, sender or wiring. No F panels or inner fender panels. You can really go crazy and use titanium bolts and other parts.
 

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wow, the tremec with a scattersheild must add 150#.
 

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Following the Colin Chapman school of race car engineering: How much of the frame could one remove and still have a drivable car?
 

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Following the Colin Chapman school of race car engineering

Simplify and add lightness.
 
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