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Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My American Auto headlight switch is shuting all my lights off after 20 minutes and then they will kick back on in about 3 minutes. No fun on the freeway at 75 miles an hour having your lights quit. I read that a relay is needed to keep the switch from overheating. Is there a switch available that will handle the load of the headlights/parking lights/guages without havng to rewire in a relay?
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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I've been using the Lucas toggle switches for headlight and highbeam for 3 years now, without issue. Period correct looking and matches the FFR provided toggle switches. Finishline carries them.
 

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I'm with Jeff Ron this one....if you use a relay, then down the line you could put in higher power headlights with no issues. It will make your switch last longer as well. It's easy to install and if you need a little help with it, this is the place.
 

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If your lights are going out you have the Painless switch from FFR which was included with American Autowire kits early on to deplete inventory. You can get the GM switch from American Autowire. $20 when I bought mine. There's a plug in your wiring kit that mates directly to the switch.
Frank
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I guess I am not sure where the relay would go. Will I need 2 relays for hi and lo beams? I have russ's turn signal unit. Would I need to rewire the whole setup up to the relay for the lights? I have a big wire coming in as the 12v source for the switch then the headlight wire goes off to the relay to toggle the hi/lo beams at the turn signal button on the end of the stalk. I guess the problem is that 12v is running through the switch at all times to power the headlights. How do I bypass this with a relay? When it shut off it turned off everything from guages to parking lights to headlights. Can I still run guages and parking light power through the headlight switch?
 

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I used a Ron Francis switch, which is pretty similar to the GM one that Paul used. Nice looking, too, but spendy.

All the best,
Tag
 

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If you really want to just use a switch go to the boating supply and get a switch rated for the current.
20 Amp switcvh about $15-$20

I did

George
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Ted, you need one relay. Leave the parking lights and dash lights operated by the switch. Splice into the 12V supply wire and run power to one side of the relay contact. Remove the headlight wire from the switch and put it on the other side of the relay contact. Run a small wire from one side of the relay coil to the terminal on the switch where you removed the headlight wire from. Connect the other side of the coil to ground.
 

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You wouldn't need to rewire everything, just the headlights. You will need 2 relays, one for high beams and one for low. The two wires that currently power your headlights will now become the two wires that turn on the relays (85 or 86 on the relay). This will drop the current load on the switch a bunch, so the rest of the wiring in the switch would be fine. You then find a good 12V source (starter solenoid) and run power through 87 and 30 on the relay to your low beams and high beams. The new relays can be under the dash, or even in the engine compartment or outside the F panels if you want to put them in a little box. You just need access to your current headlight wiring and a good 12V source. To me, this would be easier than changing to a different switch, and it will work great. You can even wire it so the low beams are still on when the high beams are on. One additional caution - if you come off the starter solenoid, you're bypassing the fuse box, so I'd use an inline fuse holder to protect the headlight circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys!
 
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