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Discussion Starter #1
Im getting so fed up w/ this tempermental EFI system. I had it running perfect and idling, now it's just running like crap again. I only get a code 33 for EGR but the motor is surging and having problems idling cold and backfiring through intake when cold. It has good vacuum, tried a few IABs, few maps (88 Speed density car) Basically all i would need is a different in tank pickup, a carb fuel pump and a carb intake/carb right? It'd be a much cleaner wiring setup thats for sure.

Dave
 

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You would also need a fuel pressure regulator between the fuel pump and carb and you would need to change the intake manifold to a carb style unit. I would suggest the Edelbrock Performer RPM Airgap. For fuel pump and regulator, holley does a combo blue pump and regulator. Mark Reynolds at Breeze Automotive has the pick-up you need; $89 with all needed bits and bobs.
 

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Do a search on this topic. This is discussed at length in a number of prior posts including some few detailed parts lists. Good luck.
 

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You can use the EFI fuel-pump bracket as your in-tank pick-up. Remove the pump from the bracket and replace it with a suitable hose. I got a bit fancy on mine and even managed to attach the screen filter to the end of the hose.
Also, when you order the carb, get a throttle linkage adapter. It's about 10 bucks and with a little "engine-uity", you'll be able to use your old EFI throttle cable.
 

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Did this myself for the same reasons last year.

I went with:
Holley Red fuel pump - no reg needed ( self regulating at 6-7psi ) and PLENTY of fuel flow for the 302. I made my own pickup and replumbed the fuel system with a canister style filter and a combination of 3/8 aluminum tubing and braided stainless lines. I made brackets and mounted the pump as low as possible near the battery, using the 3/4 tubing in the rear and some aluminum to make mounting plates.

MSD mechanical advance distributor ( with a STEEL GEAR! ) and MSD6AL ignition. Crane would work just as well. Gives you great ignition and rev limiter too.

Weiand Stealth intake manifold and a Holley 650DP. I'd probably go with a 600DP if I was building another. The intake is excellent, but the Air Gap and the Performer RPM are also quite good. What heads do you have, and what cam?

It was VERY satisfying to start it up and have it idle as smooth as butter. I made minor adjustments to the float height and idle mixture and played with the shooters later on. Otherwise it was a very good combo, and made 282hp at the rear wheels ( GT40P heads, E303, 1.7 rockers ).

I used aftermarket guages and re-used the wires for the tach ( same as EFI setup ) and engine temp. My guages came with oil pressure sending unit. It was not a bad swap.

The hardest part was probably the fuel system.

If you have any questions on the swap, feel free to email me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks guys, would it be ok to use the exsisting feed line and efi filter from the efi setup? Ive done carb conversions on fox body mustangs before so i know all the mechanicals pretty much. I actually planned to use a holley blue but a red will work I guess. I also would use a 6al as i can get them cheap. I had a weiand stealth on one of my cars and liked it w/a 650 DP. stock heads/cam

Dave
 

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You could re-use them, but 3/8 line and -6an connections with pipe adapters wherever needed seems to be a more common dimension for those parts than the 5/16 supplied from FFR for EFI. I think some guys have used the EFI filter with the carb setup and it worked fine.

With the steel line, you'll want to get a AN flaring tool from Summit. I used aluminum and an SAE flaring tool, which has a different pitch. The aluminum is softer and the fittings sealed when I torqued them down, so it works.

Like I said, putting together the fuel system was the toughest part. You can also use the inertia switch and the EFI fuel pump relay to power your Holley Red pump. I added a cut off switch wired into the relay, mounted under the dash. It's handy of you don't want to run the fuel pump with the key turned on for whatever reason, and it's a small addition to safety.
 

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I'm surprised to hear you can't get the EFI system working properly.
I've had mine done 3 years now ('88 speed density system) and it has run PERFECTLY the whole time.
Whether the car sits for 3 days or 3 months, it starts and drives exactly the same.
By all means, switch to carb if you want to, but I find it hard to believe you can't find someone local to you that really knows EFI to sort it out.

Just my .02

RR
 

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All said and done, with all the bolts, gaskets, pump, carb, air cleaner and filter, distributor, maybe new plug wires, likely a rebuild kit for the carb you are looking at $1000.00, unless you have good sources.

I started with carb and it works well for me.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #12
rob i know efi better then most. I've been playing w/ mustang EFI in excess of 10 years now. I just keep running into very odd things w/ the system. Some days its fine, others its not. Its ilke i have intermittent ground and hots but i've checked everything and it checks out. Now im getting a code 33, and ive tested and checked every sensor and its operation. They work fine on a bench w/ 12V yet in the car it wont operate properly. Ive ohmed all snesors, checked for SIG PWR, RTN, pulsed grounds and all are there, yet still get codes. It makes no sense at this point.

Dave
 

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Dave,
I'd say I was in the same boat. I know quite a bit about the Ford EFI system myself. I tried two MAF meters, two different injector sizes, replaced the TFI modules ( which were bad ) twice, and on an don. On top of that, I had the Ford EFI book, AND the Helms, AND a DMM and probed connections between the salt and pepper shakers in addition to a bunch of other places. Results were consistantly inconsistant. I replaced the TFI module connector which had probing holes all over the place. I found corrosion within the wires in several places due to frequent probing by the previous owner. I was really pulling my hair out.

I wasn't sure what to do next and started thinking about converting to carb as an act of desperation. About that time, another FFR owner rolled up in my driveway with his carb setup idling so smooth....it really pushed me over the edge.

After I converted, my car ran really well, idled fanstastic ( better than it EVER did with EFI ) and I really found it rewarding.

Everything is under my control with simple hand tools, a timing gun, and a vacuum guage now.
 

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Originally posted by Wurf:
Weiand Stealth intake manifold and a Holley 650DP. I'd probably go with a 600DP if I was building another.
Wurf, may I ask wh you'd say you'd go with a 600 ? I am building a 302 w/F-cam, Edelbrock Performers w/1.6 roller rockers, Weiand Stealth, and BBK equal length. On an Edelbrock tech's reccomendation I went with their AVS 650 carb instead of their Performer 600, but haven't run it yet.

- SB
 

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SB,

Unless you're going wild with that 302, 600CFM should be plenty of supply. From what I could tell, the only difference between the two is that with the AVS you can adjust how quickly the secondaries come on. This may be a great advantage to hard core drag racers who can tune the secondaries to come on gradually enough to prevent wheelspin, but being a road racer I figure that's what you're right foot is for! So I'm going with the 600CFM, either one should do the trick though.
 
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