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Master "Gear Head"
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Discussion Starter #1
Is this installed instead of the U-channel supplied by FFR or does it go over it? Does that mean that the screws attaching the sill trim hold the inner aluminum panel and carpet tight against the fiberglass door opening. Does this work out OK? I have a good amount of pressure in this spot pushing the 2 apart. Anybody have more pictures of the installation of this on their car? How about raw vs. bead blasted. Thanks in advance for any help.

[ January 03, 2007, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: Got-V8? ]
 

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I have it, it worked great. It's to be used instead of the plastic FFR U-channel. The screws holding the trim on only holds the trim on, doesn't attach to anything else. The underdoor aluminum should be trimmed/bent to just clear the body and give just enough room to schwish the carpet between the underdoor aluminum and the trim. Take care when screwing the trim down, make sure your holes are big enough so that the screw doesn't break the fiberglass as the holes are rather close to the edge. Don't force it.

I chose the raw finish and used scotchbrite to give the surface a texture that will be easy to redo every now and then without removing the trim.

By the way, it's way easier to do this with the doors off. If your doors are already perfectly hung, just remove the two bolts that connect the hinges.

Here's a tip, if you want to remove the hinges and the doors are perfectly hung already, just drill two 1/8" holes in the hinge and through the door or frame before loosening the hinges. Then when you reinstall the hinges just use a clecko to hold it in place whilst you tighten them down.

http://www.*******.com/4bill/100_1464.jpg
 

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Master "Gear Head"
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434 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Bill. I remember from my build that the under door aluminum and the body needed to be pinched together a bit to get the u-channel on. The height of the aluminum was ok but it was just a bit away from the body (I have a late MK II that had some of the poorly fitting under door aluminum panels). That was my only concern with removing it and using the screws of the aluminum to hold all that together. I will need to investigate this some more as the screws might pull out of the fiberglass
 

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I am not sure if this would help. I have not had any complaints about screws pulling out, but I could start to include a 1/4" strip of .040" aluminum to use to sandwich the fiberglass. What do you guys think?

Chris
 

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Master "Gear Head"
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434 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Would this be making this trim more of a u-channel? This would take most of the pressure off the screws and put it on the outer lip of the channel instead. This would also mean less screws would be required for install and make it cleaner looking from the top. This would be more like a nice version of the FFR stuff included with the kit (which ended up being to short on my build.. blame the painter for cutting a piece off during door fitment I guess).
 

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Nah, the screws won't pull out, that's not an issue. But I did this on a later Mark III with the much improved door aluminum.

The only thing I'd do differently is make the top of the trim (the side with the holes) a bit wider so the holes in the body aren't so close to the edge. Maybe 1/8' - 3/16" wider.
 

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It is 1/2" angle bent to the shape of the door opening. The strip of .040" would just be to hold the screws tight so they wouldn't pull out of the fiberglass you would not see it. Like I said though noone has complained of the screws coming out but this could be an extra precausion if someone wanted.

Chris
 

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Master "Gear Head"
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Discussion Starter #8
I will need to check this out on my roadster. I had a b*tch of a time during contruction, as the gap was quite wide but maybe it has relaxed over a couple years. Here are a couple shots of the assembly. You can see the mods I had to make to get the aluminum to fit in the frame (the braces clear the body lip no problem) and you can see some bulges in the u-channel from the stresses.



 

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Master "Gear Head"
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Discussion Starter #9
Here is a picture of the gap I have currently. It is quite stiff at this point. Is there enough metal to cover this, bring it in some and then be able to screw it into the fiberglass?

Also, has DWC made the splash gaurds for a Mark II? I think it is simply the same things without the notch for the support brace of the cockpit.

 

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Wow Greg, that looks like a big gap, I'm not sure that anything is going to bridge it, especially now that it's carpeted. Might be a downside to carpeting before the body and all is done. Maybe if the trim were wider?
 

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Master "Gear Head"
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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by Bill_VA:
Wow Greg, that looks like a big gap, I'm not sure that anything is going to bridge it, especially now that it's carpeted. Might be a downside to carpeting before the body and all is done. Maybe if the trim were wider?
In hind sight, the under door aluminum were the only pieces that I wished I had installed with the body on. I most likely would have moved the whole under door aluminum outboard some to compensate for the gap. The u-channel did bridge the gap but it didn't look as nice as the aluminum. Maybe the DWC guys can come up with something that will work. The aluminum will "pinch" towards the body some and is actually only a problem in the latch area of the pass side door for some reason.

Maybe it's a good excuse to pull the carpet, move the under door aluminum and put new sound deadening and better carpet down this winter
.
 

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I could custom build some wider door sill. It would take more work and they would twist a little in the corners. How wide of a trim would you need?

Chris
 

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Master "Gear Head"
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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by DarkWaterCustoms:
I could custom build some wider door sill. It would take more work and they would twist a little in the corners. How wide of a trim would you need?

Chris
Chris, thanks for the offer. I need to take a closer look at the under door aluminum and whether or not is prudent to move them outboard to solve the gap issue the "right" way finally. Partially depends on the condition of my carpet and if I want to redo all that anyway. Either way, your aluminum door sills of some dimension will be going in.

Can you make the splash guards for a MK II (without the notch on the straight side)? Thanks Chris.
 

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Greg,

I have the splash shields cut by CNC in vast quantities. I can not make them myself. Because of the compound curve if I cut them they would twist. Best bet would be to use the ones I have and add a "patch" or I could send you the CAD and you could try to cut your own.


Chris
 

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Master "Gear Head"
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Discussion Starter #15
The patch would seem to be the easiest way to go about it. Thanks Chris. That makes 2 items so far I need to get.
 

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Is the door sill trim sold each or set for $69.00 ?

Thanks
 

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thanks- didn't want to order too much
 

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Mine went in fine. I did have to trim the end near the door latch. Was able to restore the finish with some "0000" steel wool.

Now, if I can R/R the shocks after my last problem, I might be able to drive more than a few miles at a time.....

Ray
 

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Sorry, double post....

Ray

[ November 02, 2007, 11:39 PM: Message edited by: Ray ]
 
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