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Senior Charter Member
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I really like Mike Forte's Wilwood setup, I'd just like to hear about any pros or cons about a hydraulic clutch system (not a hydraulic throwout bearing, just the type with a slave cylinder to push/pull the fork).
 

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The problems I have seen on a lot of the cars is finding a location to mount the cylinders so they don't interfere with other stuff, and you can still get to them to check/fill fluid levels.
 

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I don't like hydraulic clutches because they are non adjustable for "feel". Also you won't realize your clutch needs replacement until it doesn't work anymore. The only plus, is that it generally has a much softer pedal with a performance clutch because of the hydraulic assist.
 

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A hydrolic master and slave are the best and easyest thing to hook up and get to work. tilton willwood there are a number of companies that make these and work well no mater what kind of bellhousing you have
 

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When you push on it, that's the downside. When you release it, the upside. Sheesh, do I have to spell EVERYTHING out for you?
 

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Ditto what Bob said. We have two local guys with brand X kits and both keep the slave cylinders in stock as they fail on a regular basis. Hydraulic clutches suck. Almost all regular cars today have cables for a reason, reliability. Cheers Richard.
 

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I drove a B&B the other day, no clutch.

Leak and no way to fix on the road. Jump start in gear only way to limp home.

JQ
 

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I have an '83 GT with cable clutch...3 times I've had to start in gear to get home (cable breaks/quadrant breaks).

Hydraulic clutches are as adjustable as any other type. I've got a Rodeo with 250k, hyraulic in it, no probs.
I'm putting one in my build (FE/toploader/Wilwood pedals). I personally don't like the hydraulic throwout bearings. They are tough to fix when they break (as all mechanical things will.)
 

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Originally posted by Richard Oben:
Hydraulic clutches suck. Almost all regular cars today have cables for a reason, reliability.
Now how would I keep the front of my footbox so clean and neat looking with a big, ugly-assed cable sticking out of it?

 

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Hi Bill,
Hydraulic clutches can be fine. The BIG problem is almost always the hydraulic throw out bearing. I would say the failure rate is more than 50% and the cost to repair could cost over $1000.00 with engine removal is the FFR MK I & MK II.

With that said the Wilwood master is fine. The slave systems I developed has a cupped seal on the piston so it is very reliable. I've sold tons of these and the only issue is you have to run a diapham clutch. That's what everyone is using so no problem there. I have made these to fit 302-351, FE 390, 427 % 429 & 429, 460 engines on either a McLeod or Lakewood bellhousing.
In the last 2 1/2 years of using this setup I have had NO failures at all!!! If a slave ever failed, it's externally mounted so it can be remove with just 2 bolts & either repaired or replaced but remember NO FAILURES with this system.
Call me with any questions.
Mike Forte
 

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Originally posted by Oldguy668:
[QB]
Originally posted by Richard Oben:
[qb] Hydraulic clutches suck. Almost all regular cars today have cables for a reason, reliability.

Hydraulics aren't reliable??? Is that why we use them for brakes???

or maybe cable because there are not as reliable and cheaper. Dealers also get more service work.
Most problems are with hydraulic throwout bearings. External slaves are easy to fix if the leak.
This style slave is just like a drum brake wheel cylinder. When do they leak? Maybe after 15-20 years??


[ September 26, 2005, 08:56 PM: Message edited by: convincor ]
 

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There are a bunch of cars on the road that use hydralic clutch systems.Haven't seen many failures in the last 15 years or so.
 

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I've had a hydralic clutch on my for over 3000 hard miles with no problems. I've had brake master stick but no problems with the clutch. I really appreciate the peddal pressure in stop and go traffic. I will admit that it may need to be bled now (I don't think it was done perfectly in the beginning) and if that cures it I'm happy. I'd do it again.
 

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Now if I could only spell as well as the clutch works. Need to look these posts over before sending I do...
 

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Basically, both can break at any given time!

I chose to go hydraulic for better,lighter, even pedal pressure. (and a very bad left knee!)

In my car, I used a slave kit which has adjustability on it, so that can be adjusted, and the Master set-up I devised also has adjustability, so I can put the pedal where I want, and it even has different pivot points, so you can also determine pedal travel. I'll have to get better pics to post.

Finally, the hydraulic doea make a very clean & tdy installation.
 
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