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During my build the most frustration thing for me was the directional signals - after much trial and error (billions of fuses) and great help from the forum and Rick Soloway - I got it down any working - here is the glitch....

I have followed various wiring diagrams via MKIV build and help from here. I have 2 dash indicator lights. I did not use any of the relays, dimmers, etc. I am under the impression they were for the high beam flash. However the Russ Thompson system works only a few times and then blows a fuse - so far can not find a short. As a result I installed a toggle on - off - on. And of course I forget to switch it off after a turn...so I am going down the road like a nerd:001_tongue:

I am wondering if the R/T system blows up on me because of lack of relays, etc. or if I should disassemble it to see if there is an issue inside his unit.

Any Thoughts?

Thanks!

PJ
 

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You don't need a relay for turn signals. That turn signal was used in a million VWs. I doubt that's the problem but I guess anything is possible. Sounds more like your wiring is messed up.
Frank
 

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Just install it as Russ's instruction describes! It works like a charm!
 

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I have had mine for 3 years no issues... You do need to be careful and pay attention to how "tight" you clamp the wires going to the turn signal stalk. Mine worked fine at first, but then I notice that when making left turn movement on the stalk my horn would come on steady (my horn is on the button). Russ informed me that there needs to be "some slack" in the wire as to not pull on the wire and thus the internals to stalk assy. Sure enough pulled about 1/2 of slack into the stalk and the internal "short" was removed. It is just a limitation of the VW internal wiring. Something to check anyway...
 

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I believe that the original cars used the VW switch and latching relay.
 

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RT switch

Although the Russ Thompson switch is a great mod for our cars, it is NOT designed to handle high amperage loads (headlights, horns, etc.) without relays installed to handle the loads.
The RT switch should only be used in a condition where it activates a relay (200Ma) as opposed to anything directly . . . let the relay take the load instead of the switch and you won't have any issues.

HTH

Doc :beerchug:
 

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I just had a similar problem with my car. I traced it back to a short occuring in the turn signal mechanism. I took it apart and it appeared to me that the two exposed brass metal tabs just under the cap were too long and scrapping the lid. I snipped them off a little and it seems to have solved the problem.
 

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I just had a similar problem with my car. I traced it back to a short occuring in the turn signal mechanism. I took it apart and it appeared to me that the two exposed brass metal tabs just under the cap were too long and scrapping the lid. I snipped them off a little and it seems to have solved the problem.
I had the same problem....I would suggest trying the switch without the steering wheel installed. If it works fine, then look at those tabs. Russ knows this is a problem, as we discovered it on mine a few months ago.
 

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Thanks for the help guys!

Yes - it must be in the R/T housing as it work fine until the wheel is installed and then blows up.
You need to make sure you have some play b/n the steering hub and the turn signal switch. If not it will bind.

You should be able to see the two tabs that are contacting the steering hub and shorting out. Bend them over gently. My steering shaft was not going straight thru the switch assembly and I had to tweak the switch mount to get everything to line up.

Like you, I had some trouble getting the whole thing to work and ended up buying another switch from Russ before I got it all figured out. BUT, in the end, it is well worth the effort!

HTH
ernest
 

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Hi Emac,

Yes I do have quite a bight of bind between the hub and his housing - what did you do to ease that up?

Thanks

PJ
I did a combination of pulling the steering column out, setting the switch as low as possible, and I even ground some metal off of the back of the steering wheel hub. I dont recommend grinding the hub as it was out of pure frustration. Make sure that you have made the dash hole large enough to allow you to move the switch around to get good alignment.
 
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