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If they are doing the Infinity layover harness integrated with the RF chassis harness, that's exactly what I have. My setup was a little more complex since I have the trans/diff/cooler fan setup along with the Radium FCST triple pump setup.

Take a look at the photo I posted a few comments back. My regulator is mounted right by the tank. The Radium regulator receives both fuel pumps on the top then the return is on the bottom on the same side (like a triangle) then the other side of the regulator is the feed. It then dead heads at the rails. That way I'm not pumping gas all around the chassis of my car and heating it up - it all returns 3 inches from the feed.

I would put the sensor as close to the beginning of the return line as you can. The quicker you can detect the ethanol content change the better.

Hey Mark,

Yep, we got on the topic of you and your car while both him and Jen were at my house doing the preliminary harness measurements.

It didn't take long to get a good impression, he definitely knows his wiring stuff and sharp with all things AEM.

Question, where about inline did you mount the E-85 sensor on your car?

I mounted mine about the same distance on the return fuel line as the fuel rails are to the fuel regulator, along the passenger side foot box and about 8 inches above the main frame rail.

I'm hoping that by keeping the distance about the same as the fuel rails it may help with the timing and reading of the incoming fuel mix.



Saul
 

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Discussion Starter #83
I'm thinking maybe tap into the end of the fuel rail for the return line instead of the regulator. Then plumb the sensor right at the fuel rail return. That way the sensor is the closest read to the injectors but after them.
 

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With you guys already up and running at least I know that I'm heading in the right direction, I'm really looking forward to actually doing some tuning soon.

Trevor is your fuel system/lines already set up for E-85?

Also, do you know if you can run a single 3-wire oil pressure transducer style sensor and feed the signal to both the Infinity ECU and the gauge? or do you need to run separate sensors for each?

The reason I ask is because I just sent my oil pressure gauge back to Speedhut to reprint the face to 150 psi and have it converted for use with a 3-wire transducer style sensor. (Another thing I took your advise on Trevor)

While I was at it I also sent in the temperature gauge to have them convert it from celsius to fahrenheit.

Saul
 

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Discussion Starter #85
With you guys already up and running at least I know that I'm heading in the right direction, I'm really looking forward to actually doing some tuning soon.

Trevor is your fuel system/lines already set up for E-85?

Also, do you know if you can run a single 3-wire oil pressure transducer style sensor and feed the signal to both the Infinity ECU and the gauge? or do you need to run separate sensors for each?

The reason I ask is because I just sent my oil pressure gauge back to Speedhut to reprint the face to 150 psi and have it converted for use with a 3-wire transducer style sensor. (Another thing I took your advise on Trevor)

While I was at it I also sent in the temperature gauge to have them convert it from celsius to fahrenheit.

Saul
Saul,

Actually I just ripped out all of the rubber fuel line and in-tank fuel pump this morning and converting everything over to E-85 compatible. Installing, new ethanol rated flex hose (Gates Barricade MPI) along with a 320 lph AEM E-85 fuel pump. Digging out the Infinity harness now to prepare it for wiring up the flex fuel sensor when it arrives. I've already built my E-85 tune and that's ready to go. Although I'll need to refine the tune once I dump a full tank of E-85. Then the table blending should be pretty solid.

I've already up sized the hardline. Not as big as you guys'. I am naturally aspirated and -6 AN (3/8") supply and 5/16" return will be ample for my setup. I'm going to stick with my 47 lb injectors for now. At 525 HP at the crank on gas, I hope to top 550 HP on E-85. If I need larger injectors I'll go with ID 1000s.

As to your question... you can feed both the ECU and the gauge off of the one 150 psi transducer sensor. I ran the wiring from the ECU to the gauge and then onto the sensor.

Trevor
 

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60lb injectors will be more than enough for NA...that's what I run. I made 843 rwhp on my turbo 2011 Mustang on E85 with ID1000s - don't need them that big
 

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Thanks, that should save me some time and effort.

Saul
 

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Discussion Starter #88
60lb injectors will be more than enough for NA...that's what I run. I made 843 rwhp on my turbo 2011 Mustang on E85 with ID1000s - don't need them that big
The smaller ID750s are the same price as 1000s. I can easily tune the ID1000. It will just be at a lower duty cycle on an NA application. Yes, they are overkill for NA but for the same price, I'd rather have the larger ones in case I ever decide to boost it later down the road and won't have a wasted investment in the smaller injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
E-85 Conversion and Tune

So I wasn't really planning on going with E-85 but a little self-imposed coaxing and having heard from Saul and Mark and I'm in. Remaining issues with the Infinity to tune is now pretty sparse. So I guess E-85 is the next frontier to get some additional tuning experience with. But first the hardware for the conversion and then I'll get onto the tuning.

Fuel Line for the soft connections: Gates Barricade multi-fuel/Bio-fuel MPI hose
Fuel Line for the hard connections: 3/8" supply, 5/16" return
Fuel pump: E-85 rated AEM 320 lph in-tank
Pump hanger: 1995 SN95 bracket (larger 3/8" supply line, same 1/4" return)
Fuel Injectors: Injector Dynamics
Fuel Rails: Metco Motorsports
Ethanol Sensor: AEM Flex Fuel sensor with -6AN fittings

Fuel Math calculations with my engine show 3/8" supply to be more than ample. However, my stock Fox body fuel hanger has 5/16" supply and 1/4" return. With the SN95 hanger, the supply is 3/8". I removed the 1/4" return and brazed in a 5/16" return into the hanger assembly. I finished switching over all fuel lines.

The alcohol in E-85 will absorb moisture and injectors are prone to rust shut or open. Injector Dynamics uses stainless internals in the injectors so these are a good choice for E-85 as they won't rust. Will still need to "pickle" the fuel system with Gasoline when storing the car for longer periods (off-season). While the aftermarket Metco fuel rails are really not needed that's a "just cuz", as I never like the look of the stock rails and I don't keep them covered with the NVM insulation covers so they are exposed.

For the Flex Fuel sensor, I have to wire a digital input into the ECU. The digital input requires a pullup to 12V to function properly. I finished breaking into the harness and wiring in the sensor lead to C1-25 (Flex Fuel pin) and assigning it to Dig4. So the harness wiring is done and buttoned back up and ready for the Flex Fuel sensor when it arrives next week.

Rest of the parts to finish up the hardware upgrades are on order. Will post progress on this conversion.

Trevor
 

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I haven't played around with the TC knob yet, I haven't actually got a chance to drive the car on the street.

I highly recommend Driven's carb defender. It coats all your lines and hard parts to keep them from breaking down.

Also e85 absorbs water from the atmosphere. Don't leave it in the tank for a long time, especially people back east when they don't drive over the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
I haven't played around with the TC knob yet, I haven't actually got a chance to drive the car on the street.

I highly recommend Driven's carb defender. It coats all your lines and hard parts to keep them from breaking down.

Also e85 absorbs water from the atmosphere. Don't leave it in the tank for a long time, especially people back east when they don't drive over the winter.
Great tip on the carb defender. I'll check it out. Yeah, pretty clear on the gasoline pickling suggestion in light of the hygroscopic effects of E-85. Will ensure a heavy concentration of gasoline is in the tank and ran through the engine before any extended periods of sitting.

Make sure you send an update out when you start playing with your traction control. I'm really interested in your thoughts. I've been so impressed with it.
 

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Did you end up installing a secondary brake switch to be used with the TC? I got the Motec adapter per your recommendation, but had to run both the front wheels off of it because one of my other inputs was being taken up by the trans speed sensor. Im hoping to have my car back in the road in the next 30 days.

Great tip on the carb defender. I'll check it out. Yeah, pretty clear on the gasoline pickling suggestion in light of the hygroscopic effects of E-85. Will ensure a heavy concentration of gasoline is in the tank before abd ran throigh the engine before any extending sitting.

Make sure you send an update out when you start playing with your traction control. I'm really interested in your thoughts. I've been so impressed with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Did you end up installing a secondary brake switch to be used with the TC? I got the Motec adapter per your recommendation, but had to run both the front wheels off of it because one of my other inputs was being taken up by the trans speed sensor. Im hoping to have my car back in the road in the next 30 days.
I did not install a secondary brake switch.

My trans speed sensor is also analog. But I converted it to a digital signal so I wouldn't burn the remaining VR analog input. I ended up using that VR analog for one of the front wheel sensors and just used the Motec converter for the other front sensor.

Obviously, either way gets you there. It is cool that the Motec converter can handle two separate inputs with the one device though.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
E-85 Conversion and Tune

More parts.

I had overlooked the fuel filter. Apparently paper/cellulose filter media and alcohol don't like each other. Go figure. I currently run an Aeromotive 10-micron post-pump paper filter. Not gonna work. Did a bunch of research and I think the best approach is to use a stainless mesh media. They are supposedly good for E-85 and other alcohol based fuels. And rather than servicing the filter by replacing it frequently, the stainless mesh filters are washable and re-usable. The problem I found is lack of availability for the 10-micron filters in stainless. Most of the stainless mesh filters available are 100-microns. I did find a few but really liked what I found at Radium Engineering. They build really cool products. Anyway this is the filter I went with:

Parts are starting to roll in for the E-85 conversion. Will be hopefully knocking out most of the conversion over the weekend.

 

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Hello Trevor,

I'm running a reusable stainless element 100 Micron filter mounted at the vertical post where it is accessible yet it is out of the harms way.

Because I have not yet started the engine much less put any miles on it, did your research reveal any compromise with a 10 micron filter? to me it seems like it may be a bit restrictive.

Saul
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Hello Trevor,

I'm running a reusable stainless element 100 Micron filter mounted at the vertical post where it is accessible yet it is out of the harms way.

Because I have not yet started the engine much less put any miles on it, did your research reveal any compromise with a 10 micron filter? to me it seems like it may be a bit restrictive.

Saul
Hello Saul,

First off, great looking work on your fuel lines. Here's what I know... or think I know (caveat, I am not an expert). I think it has been general practice to run 100-micron filter before the pump and 10-microns after the pump. For my application (NA), I won't have near the same fuel requirements as your boosted setup. So will a 10-micron filter suffice? Well, it is true that the finer the filter the more restrictive it is. However, there are other variables besides micron rating when it comes to filter flow which include the inlet and outlet port size as well as the amount of surface area of the filter. Take a tiny inline filter at 10-microns and compare it to a much larger filter made of the same media at 10-microns and the larger filter will flow more volume. Running 100-micron filter is a bit coarse for my liking and wouldn't want those sized particles hitting my injectors, especially with the amount of money I have in the injectors alone.

As for research, a while back Dragzine did an article with Fragola and Aeromotive in which they featured fueling a 1000HP boosted Coyote and setup it up with a post-pump 10-micron filter.

I've added a link below on a tech bulletin on fuel filtration which you may find helpful.

http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/TB_102_Outlet_Filter_02.pdf

Trevor
 

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Good article,

Thanks, I'll look into a 10 micron element since the good thing is the element is inexpensive and easy to replace.

Thanks on the complement, even with the proper tools and a tubing bender I remember my thumbs hurting for a week afterward, too bad most of the lines are not visible!

:bandaid:

Saul
 
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