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Discussion Starter #281
Re-reading your question perhaps you are asking if Coil 1 as referenced by AEM is the same Coil 1 as reference by Ford. If that is the question answer is yes. To further clarify, Coil 1 belongs to Cylinder 1 and so on.

Never any dumb questions here. Fire away.

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If you are referencing the AEM coil drivers then no, your assumption is not correct. Here is the schematic for each coil driver if I understand your question. It is critical you get these wired properly.

This is what I am talking about. however, in the AEM ford adapter they have two 4 wires connectors and two 5 wires connectors. I am away from the car now. but what I remember is that they labeled the connectors as follows:
Driver 1 connector 1
Driver 1 Connector 2
Driver 2 Connector 1
Driver 2 Connector 2.
I will check wiring for each connector and try to make sure they are plugged in the coil as per the attached drawing.

Thanks
Hakeem
 

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Discussion Starter #283
This is what I am talking about. however, in the AEM ford adapter they have two 4 wires connectors and two 5 wires connectors. I am away from the car now. but what I remember is that they labeled the connectors as follows:
Driver 1 connector 1
Driver 1 Connector 2
Driver 2 Connector 1
Driver 2 Connector 2.
I will check wiring for each connector and try to make sure they are plugged in the coil as per the attached drawing.

Thanks
Hakeem
Ahhh. Now I understand your question. Driver 1 will control your bank 1 coils. Driver 2 will control your bank 2 coils. So each driver can control up to 4 coils. Driver 1 will then control coils 1-4 and Driver 2 will control coils 5-8.

The Infinity harness is pretty much plug and play. So yes 1 goes to 1 and 2 goes to 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #284 (Edited)
Hakeem's tune calibration - Part 1

Hakeem,

I reviewed your log file you just sent over. Great job firing it up and getting it running. Everything looks healthy with the exception of it running lean as you pointed out. Once you get more exhaust components assembled, send me another log and I'll review. I did notice your Lambda feedback is turned off. But for now leave it that way until we get a little further down the road. It helps to troubleshoot by keeping things as simple as possible. Can you confirm that you are running the Bosch LSU 4.2 O2 sensors? The internal wideband controllers built into the Infinity only work with the LSU 4.2 sensors. The Ford Racing controls pack comes with the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensors. Make sure you are not running these sensors. Let me know. I have gone through your tune and want to make some recommendations.

1) Sensor Failsafes - I noticed in your sensor setup for Fuel Pressure, MAP and Oil pressure that your failsafes are turned off. Also some of the trigger values and other parameters should be changed. Basically, this is to tell the ECU what values to use should a sensor fail. This will keep the engine running and in a safe condition. Here are the screenshots representing what yours should look like.




You can either make these changes to your tune file yourself or you can just upload the tune file I modified and emailed to you which includes these recommendations along with the next post's recommendations.

Looks like you are well on your way. Let the tuning begin.
 

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Discussion Starter #285
Hakeem's tune calibration - Part 2

Hakeem,

I noticed that you have Lowside 0 output and Highside 2 output both set to trigger your fuel pump. Unless you are running two fuel pumps that you are trying to trigger separately, I would only use the Highside 2 output to trigger your fuel pump. This highside should already be wired to the fuel pump using the AEM Plug and Play harness. Lowside 0 comes pre-wired to the GENRC lead on the alternator so unless you changed the harness wiring, the setup on Lowside 1 isn't doing anything and isn't really controlling the fuel pump.



2) Regulating Alternator Voltage - I would repurpose Lowside 0 output to control the voltage that your regulator is putting out and as stated above, the harness should already be wired for this. I noticed in your log file that your output is currently at 13.7V. I would set it up to regulate at 14.7V. To do this you need to go into the Output Function Assignments section in the Wizard and double-click "Lowside 0 Output Setup". Doing so, you will get a setup screen that looks somewhat like this. Match all the values as depicted in the screenshot.
Now leave the wizard and go to the "Outputs" tab. Find the "LS0_Duty [%]" table and change all of the table values to 35%. 35% will equate to 14.7V regulated.
 

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Hakeem,

I reviewed your log file you just sent over. Great job firing it up and getting it running. Everything looks healthy with the exception of it running lean as you pointed out. Once you get more exhaust components assembled, send me another log and I'll review. I did notice your Lambda feedback is turned off. But for now leave it that way until we get a little further down the road. It helps to troubleshoot by keeping things as simple as possible. Can you confirm that you are running the Bosch LSU 4.2 O2 sensors? The internal wideband controllers built into the Infinity only work with the LSU 4.2 sensors. The Ford Racing controls pack comes with the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensors. Make sure you are not running these sensors.
Thanks A lot! I saw these tabs but honestly didnt know what to do with them! so I left them as is. I will sure upload the tune file you sent me.

as for the o2 sensors I am using the sensors that came with AEM. they sent me two sensors along with two extension wires.
The headers I am using looks a lot like the ones that comes with the coyote engine. However, I remember when I ordered Schwarltz chassis for 1967 Mustang coupe, they mentioned that they have to modify the headers so they can fit in the chassis. But they look just like them. I will confirm tomorrow as I have coyote original headers from my previous build. currently the o2 sensors mounted just before the headers bracket (where the rest of the exhaust must mount).

1) one question here please. what is meant by smoothing in the above pictures in the sensors tab?

Thanks Again:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #288
1) one question here please. what is meant by smoothing in the above pictures in the sensors tab?

Thanks Again:grin2:
Smoothing is basically just software filtering of the signal. This is generally helpful when there is a noisy or bouncing signal. Smoothing basically regresses the highs and the lows of the noisy signal to "smooth" it out. You don't want to over filter a signal as it can create a lazy or slow response and you will lose some granularity.
 

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Smoothing is basically just software filtering of the signal. This is generally helpful when there is a noisy or bouncing signal. Smoothing basically regresses the highs and the lows of the noisy signal to "smooth" it out. You don't want to over filter a signal as it can create a lazy or slow response and you will lose some granularity.

Sorry for late replay. Here are some photos for the headers. I tried my best to remove them but I have to remove many things if have to remove them. If its important I will. hope this helps.

Hakeem
 

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Discussion Starter #296
Hakeem,

I really think your ongoing lean condition and jumpy lambda signal is because you don't have the rest of the exhaust assembled. Looking at your pictures your O2 sensors are right at the exposed collector opening on the headers. This is almost certainly allowing the O2 sensors to sniff fresh air causing the O2 lean misreadings. Once you finish your exhaust plumbing I am betting your Lambda values will fall in line.

Trevor

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MIL wire Issue

Hi,

Its been a while. I am back at the car and still only one lambda is getting reading lambda 1 (passenger side) which reads correctly as lambda target. and lambda 2 (driver side) is stuck at 1.5. Anyway, I am still checking the wiring and I think its an issue with the extension I bought.

Now I am trying to follow the steps in How To: wire up a MIL and there is a strange thing is happening. I opened output function assignment and chose General purpose for lowside 1 output setup. I chose Y and X axis as per the document. however everytime I close the window (lowside 1 output setup) and reopen it it keeps changing the X-axis to Temp(F)! not sure why. Any idea?

I checked pin C1-33 and its connected properly.

Thanks
Hakeem
 

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Hi,

Now I am trying to follow the steps in How To: wire up a MIL and there is a strange thing is happening. I opened output function assignment and chose General purpose for lowside 1 output setup. I chose Y and X axis as per the document. however everytime I close the window (lowside 1 output setup) and reopen it it keeps changing the X-axis to Temp(F)! not sure why. Any idea?

I checked pin C1-33 and its connected properly.

Thanks
Hakeem
Hello Hakeem,

Glad to see you on the forum again. I had the same problem with the X-axis changing in the software setting too, there is a software patch available to fix that issue. Trevor helped me figure this out and a ton of other things too.

Contact AEM and they will send you the patch file specific to your ECU.

Saul
 

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Discussion Starter #299
Hakeem,

Saul is correct. There is a known bug in the software that prevents your settings from saving and it reverts back to a pre-set default. The fix requires you to replace a specific Wizard file (.wiz) with the fixed patch file in the Infinity Tuner software. The patch file is specific to the firmware that you are running. I have the patch fix for both 96.1 and 96.2 firmware versions for the Coyote running on a Series 7 ECU. I just sent you the patch file for the latest firmware version (96.2) assuming that's the version you are running. Just replace your current file in this directory - Program Files (x86)\AEM\Infinity Tuner\Plugins\AEM\Resources\ with the file I just emailed you. If you are running an older version of firmware, let me know. Although I would recommend upgrading to the latest firmware in that case.

Also, I think you may be on the right track with the harness extender for your O2 sensor. I run one on my Driver side and I too had problems with it not making a solid connection. The wiring was fine, just a bad connection.

Trevor
 

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I will check it tomorrow once I am back in the garage. I believe i have the latest firmware unless this new one came recently. I downloaded the latest firmware maybe few months ago. I will wait till tomorrow to check it.

I noticed when I disconnect the o2 sensor (driverside) readings go down to lambda 1. Also I had some issues with my engine on the oter car that for some reason and out of sudden i feel like the engine dies while driving for few seconds. I think these extension has something wrong at the connector. I will remove these extensions from all cars and extend wires by soldering longer wire and keeping FRPP connector.

Thanks guys. will update tomorrow.

btw another question please. at what degree do u guys set the fan to work? mine is set at 87.5 C and the coolant temperature keep raising till 100 C. and then stops. is this normal?
 
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