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Junior Charter Member
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75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having a hard time getting the aluminun to fit under the doors. I'm not sure I have the pieces right. Does anyone have a picture of the aluminum installed, but not covered by carpet?

My biggest question is do the tabs for riveting point to the interior or exterior (causing you to remove body to rivet if they face out). I have the body installed and neither piece fits well.

The rear 3/4 tube with the door lock on it appears to be at a different angle than the LASER CUT aluminum piece.

Thanks
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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2,736 Posts
Hi
The rivits go on the inside. My aluminum had to be "tweaked" to fit. i.e. cut down about 1` inch and bent about 10 degrees more. I did not rivit the floor in this area as I did not want the aluminum sitting on rivit heads.
Good luck
Bill
 

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Senior Member
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1,418 Posts
I would just cut in half, mount the two pieces and fill the gap with an aluminum strip. This is what I did with my tunnle cover, had abount a 1/4 inch gap in the middle.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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3,806 Posts
Gotta love those "laser cut" panels. I not sure that the panels are laser cut, but I know that they are definitely not laser bent. My passenger side was too short; it was 1/2"-3/4" from the lip of the door opening. I just flattened out the bend at the floor and redid it where it needed to be.
 

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I've found that a good file does wonders for shaping the panels if you only need to remove a little at a time. I don't know what the one I have is called other than it's "medium grain" not heavy/coarse or fine. It will quickly take 1/4" off the edge of a panel.

Mine were pretty close, only the variations the fiberglass had to be taken into consideration.
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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2,042 Posts
I unbend the flange that hits the floor a lot. This makes it go agaist the body nice and tight. I also silcone it to the body under the door opening. These 2 panel need a lot of TLC but will fit.
Jeff Hamilton
 

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Senior Charter Member
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552 Posts
The rear angle of the aluminum piece was wrong on both sides. It was OK at bottom but an inch off at the top (too far to rear). Joe at FFR sent me 2 new pieces that fit properly. This is a lot easier than trying to fit the existing ones and looks a lot better when done.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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1,659 Posts
Mine was not even close either. What I did to make it fit was a little bit different than what others have done. I took my Dremel with a thin radiac wheel and sliced the panel from the bottom corner at about a 45 deg angle all the way to the top. I then fit the panel in the opening with the cut section overlapping and clecoed it in place. Once clecoed I drilles and rivited the two overlapping pieces together with a string of rivets . Simple and quick. The panel is actually now a little stiffer from the overlap and the carpet and trim will cover nicely . You have plenty of rivits put them to good use as you probably don't have a sheet metal brake.
 

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I belive the problem has more to do with the placement of the 3/4 sq. tubing at the rear of the door opening. Not only did my panels not fit but the door striker bracket on the passenger side required cutting and welding to make it work. Also I will have to fab a .200" spacer to fit between the door and the latch so the doors will line up properly with the outside of the body. Since FFR's panels are laser cut on a cnc machine and the bending is only for the flanges I doubt if the inconsistency is in the panels. Finally! if I measure from the 2x2 upright at the door hinge to 3/4 tubing at the door latch, I get a difference side to side of 5/8" I belive FFR needs to move the 3/4 tube further back and give more adjustment travel to the brackets.
 

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423 Posts
Pat,
Mine fit like doo-doo to. Your right, the 3/4" tube angle from the floor is different than the panel.
I measured the 3/4" tube angle, unbent the panel leg at that end ,transfered the angle to the panel and rebent on the new line, fit perfect with a little trimming around the latch and around the hinge in the front. The door cutout was right on, believe it or not. Both sides required this manuver.

Ron
 

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906 Posts
Been fitting the aluminum under the doors on 4429, and they fit well,. Just a little trimming on the radius to fit the fiberglass, but nothing major. As stated by others, the door latches are way off. With the new adjustable units, there is some play, but mine were all the way out to the limits, and I was adding washers to the latch projection to get them to catch.

The latch splash shields are another matter. all the bends, overlaps and reliefs were wrong. ended up bending out the overlaps and re bending, trimming where it fit to the top under the 3/4" tube. You might want to tinker with that to see if there is a better fit before riveting in the cockpit .

Steve
 

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Originally posted by Robert Frantz:
I belive the problem has more to do with the placement of the 3/4 sq. tubing at the rear of the door opening. Not only did my panels not fit but the door striker bracket on the passenger side required cutting and welding to make it work. Also I will have to fab a .200" spacer to fit between the door and the latch so the doors will line up properly with the outside of the body. Since FFR's panels are laser cut on a cnc machine and the bending is only for the flanges I doubt if the inconsistency is in the panels. Finally! if I measure from the 2x2 upright at the door hinge to 3/4 tubing at the door latch, I get a difference side to side of 5/8" I belive FFR needs to move the 3/4 tube further back and give more adjustment travel to the brackets.
you know, that is funny my car has a similar problem. The passenger side latch L bracket that the striker bolts up to had to be on the inside (towards the rear of the car) of the FFR welded bracket on the chassis whereas the drivers side L bracket was on the outside (towards the front of the car). The door still doesnt shut right.
:(

Dave
 
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