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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been pricing alternators and noticed the 94 95 302 alternators are listed as 130 amp with internal regulator. This sounds better than a 93 rated at 75 amps and its about the same price! Will the 94 part work with the Ron Francis wire harness? What belt system do I need to buy? I know v belts are old school and perhaps the ribbed type is better.
 

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I am not familiar with the rf harness but both should work ... maybe a few mods for the high amp . The bracketry is the issue, the newer alts are larger and may not fit your brackets if you have them . There are lots of high $$ brackets available w/ pullies depending on your needs . I used regular non bling Ford parts for mine (alt only) with a serp belt and a grooved pulley from Fortes parts. If you have ps and a/c it gets expensive . Try Mike or Steve at Fortes he makes his own parts and has march and I think some other brands as well. Bob
 

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Bunch of questions, all good but you might want to start here:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=63
They explain the different alternators and a very good explanation of how to wire up a 3G. As I recall, they sell the pigtail needed to make it work.

I went with a 3G and used a serpentine belt around the crank, water pump, and alternator. You will need to understand water pumps and their rotation as well.

You can spend as much as you want on very fancy pulleys, brackets, etc. but I went with Mike Everson, a vendor here http://www.replicaparts.com/.

Hope this helps get you started, good luck,
Arch
 

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I don't know the answer but is there an issue with putting a 135 amp alternator onto a wiring harness that was designed for 65 or 75 amp. Also why the need for a high capacity? You can always wire something to make it work but .....

Greg
 

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The bigger alternator, in addition to the other challenges, will rob more HP and provide no benefit. Consider the power drain on your vehicle. Why do you need more than 70 amps? Are you considering a putting in an electric rear defog?:001_cool:

I would be concerned about the RF harness and what it is rated for. If you drain the battery, the system could/will pull max current and if your wiring is not sized properly, you may not appreciate the consequences.

Larry

Larry
 

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The RF harness is designed around the donor concept, hence it is designed to use the stock 87-93 alternator. You can't just hook up a one wire 130A alternator to the RF harness. You will need to strip out the RF alternator wiring, and rewire it using the appropriate gauge wire and install a breaker/fuse as well since the RF harness doesn't have one. Many mustang owners (myself included) upgrade from the stock 65A (I think) alternator - it just doesn't have enough juice to do the job. Lights dim at idle etc. I tried a Tuff Stuff 100A alt, but I on;y ever read 13A on my voltmeter, plus the stud came loose before I even had the car on the road. I swapped it out for a Powermaster 100A alternator - now have 14A at idle, and it's better made. I had to drill out some of the threads to get it to mount the way I wanted it to. Also stripped out all the RF alternator wiring and ran 2g wire and installed a 100A breaker. I think 130A is overkill, but if that's what you want to use, there's no reason not to. Also make sure your fuse is matched to the output of the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was looking at the higher capacity for overhead for seat heaters and and read some posts that were less than optimistic about 75 amps. As for a performace hit thats not a issue with me since a loss of a few horsepower is probably in my best interest. I can scare myself on a riding mower.....:yes: The information I readon the alternator pointed out it doesn't put out a constant 135 amps only what is required. My take on that is it would not be that much more resistance on the engine unless the power is required and then it is available.
 

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The 2G alternators (up to '93) have a cheesy, slip-on and click high current connection which has been blamed for, at the least, voltage drop, and at the most smoke and fire, plus their output dropped off considerably at idle. This is a well documented fault of the 2G. The 3G (94 and later) has a bolt and nut electrical connection, eliminating the potential voltage drop. The small frame 3G (there is a large frame, don't get that one) will fit in the 2G spot, with a little grinding of the aluminum mount, nothing major. I highly recommend this upgrade, you may never use the extra capacity but the performance at idle is greatly improved and worth the price alone. :D
 

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I am starting to plan out this part of the build too, and was interested in the 3g set up. What vehicles used the small frame 130 Amp 3g alternator?

jj
 

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I am starting to plan out this part of the build too, and was interested in the 3g set up. What vehicles used the small frame 130 Amp 3g alternator?

jj
I think the 92 Mustang used the small case 3G. The small case 3G is rated at 95Amps (stock), and the large case 3G is rated at 120Amps and up. Check out www.pa-performance.com for detailed descriptions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The 2G alternators (up to '93) have a cheesy, slip-on and click high current connection which has been blamed for, at the least, voltage drop, and at the most smoke and fire, plus their output dropped off considerably at idle. This is a well documented fault of the 2G. The 3G (94 and later) has a bolt and nut electrical connection, eliminating the potential voltage drop. The small frame 3G (there is a large frame, don't get that one) will fit in the 2G spot, with a little grinding of the aluminum mount, nothing major. I highly recommend this upgrade, you may never use the extra capacity but the performance at idle is greatly improved and worth the price alone. :D
Thanks for the comments! You pretty much confirmed my thoughts on it.
 

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Cheaper alternative - GM alternator in a Ford case. I've got one of these - very easy to hook up. It can be installed as a one wire or you can use the alternator exciter input to make it a "three" wire. (Don't know why they call this a three wire - there are only two wires )
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-8-37100/?rtype=10



Concerning the comments above about 75 amp being good enough for the donor car - the donor car didn't have an electric cooling fan.

Pete
 

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[QUOTE
Concerning the comments above about 75 amp being good enough for the donor car - the donor car didn't have an electric cooling fan.

Pete[/QUOTE]

Electric defroster on the rear window, power windows and seats, ac and heater fans radio, wipers and other electric loads. 75 amp is enough, its that at an idle it isnt producing that
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
While reading another post on starter selection I read a couple of posts regarding a DB electric as a recomended source. WoW! I got a new hi torque mini starter and a new 130 amp alternator with shipping for $150.00. They arrived in 2 days and look very nice, no reman stuff for sure. Thanks to the great suggestions to guys on the forum.
 

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The shop I work at just replaced an alternator on a Maybach for a customer. The Mercedes Benz dealer quoted $16,000.00 to replace the alternator on her 2003 car with 22000 miles. We took the job in because she was a friend of the owner. The alternator was a water cooled 260 amp 78lb beauty. The water jacket bolted directly to the engine but you could make an adapter and run hoses to it. The voltage regulator was also water cooled. It takes a 10 rib serpentine belt to run it. I can get you one of these beauties for OUR COST. Only $11,400.00. Keep in mind, this thing takes about 28 HP to run it so you may have to step up on your engine. How many would you like?
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The shop I work at just replaced an alternator on a Maybach for a customer. The Mercedes Benz dealer quoted $16,000.00 to replace the alternator on her 2003 car with 22000 miles. We took the job in because she was a friend of the owner. The alternator was a water cooled 260 amp 78lb beauty. The water jacket bolted directly to the engine but you could make an adapter and run hoses to it. The voltage regulator was also water cooled. It takes a 10 rib serpentine belt to run it. I can get you one of these beauties for OUR COST. Only $11,400.00. Keep in mind, this thing takes about 28 HP to run it so you may have to step up on your engine. How many would you like?
Bob
You need to price some jet aircraft parts. Nothing will shock you after that!
 
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